Need Help!!! Gasket Replaement Started

GirlBear · #1 10-19-2005, 09:32 PM

OMG!!! This like a 100x's More work than I thought. But I'm 99.999% done with the taking it apart side of it. Onliy thing now is the fuel lines leading to the top of the intake area. How do I disconnect them. I'm sorry I usually have pics. I'll post a full tear down and replacement of gasket 2mar0. I'm friggin beat. lol. No help tonight. I flew solo broke that vaccume line that attatches to the ball on the underside of the hood. lol that was the only thing I broke too. Hood prop bar was in the way so I used rod I found laying in the garage. while taking off the plugs from the distributor I whaled it with my elbo and the hood fell on me. lol lmfao/ didn't really hurt more funny than anything. glad no one saw it. I was pissed tho when it happened. then i took a break and had a chuckle . Any hoo if some one could hep with the gas lines i'd be much obliged.

herkyhawki · #2 10-19-2005, 10:42 PM

If I remember right, there is one bolt in between or next to the two lines that holds a bracket to the manifold. It's hard to see but you can feel it back there. There might be some ground wires under the same bolt too so take note.

GirlBear · #3 10-19-2005, 11:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by herkyhawki

If I remember right, there is one bolt in between or next to the two lines that holds a bracket to the manifold. It's hard to see but you can feel it back there. There might be some ground wires under the same bolt too so take note.

I got that off. Im talkin the actual lines they come to a coupling of sorts. then i can unscrew them but too close to firewall cant get wrench on it.

GirlBear · #4 10-19-2005, 11:34 PM

plus is there much gas in the lines? And the purge valve i depressed like stated in the book. Gas everywhere . do I just go with it until no mo gas?

Jeremy Fitch · #5 10-20-2005, 02:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GirlBear

plus is there much gas in the lines? And the purge valve i depressed like stated in the book. Gas everywhere . do I just go with it until no mo gas?

Yes, press it til no more gas and all pressure is gone. Use a rag to help catch all the gas.

As for the lines I use a small tubing wrench to get them loose. They are rather hard to get too where they are close to the firewall.

BTW - Love the new sig cartoon.

rlith · #6 10-20-2005, 07:36 AM

Yes, definatly use a line wrench... You can flex them some to move them but if it's still too difficult to move them back when you unscrewthem (be careful putting them back on! They're easy to cross thread! If you can't hand tighten them at first, back them off!)

The fact you can't move them back at the moment is fine. When you remove the lower intake manifold bolts, and then lift up the lower intake itself (may need a prybar to shift it) you can slife the manifold forward and walla, the lines are out!

wolfox · #7 10-20-2005, 12:26 PM

When I did my CPI replacement, I found that leaving the bracket in place, then removing the distributor and the driver's side wire harness that plugged into it's ignitor module gave me plenty of room to use line/flare nut wrenches. I say leave the bracket in place because the fuel lines are keyed to fit into the bracket to keep them from turning when you apply pressure to the wrenches. Once the fuel lines were disconnected, they can be pushed back just enough to clear the nut kit's collars on the back of the intake and to the sides a bit to give your hands room to turn a 1/4 ratchet on a mini handle and a Torx bit to remove the plate. The removed harness from the ignitor module will give you even more room to move as the 1/4 ratchet head I have got is not a micro-fine one...needs to spin at least an 1/8 turn before it goes "click". *grumble* Getting the nut kit in and out when I did my top-end job was the worst, knuckle-busting part of the entire job with me laying face and belly down atop of my half disassembled engine.

GirlBear · #8 10-20-2005, 01:33 PM

Thanx guys!! Just got home from work. Goin down to my parents garage. Back to the Blazer to take off those lines and manifold. I am forever in all your debt for this info. thank you X's 1000!! lol.

Jeremy Fitch · #9 10-20-2005, 05:08 PM

Just take your time and don't get in a hurry. That is usually when something ends up getting broke is when your in a rush. I have faith you can get the job done!

DINO55 · #10 10-20-2005, 06:57 PM

Hey GirlBear, Don't change your Avatar anymore. I almost forgot what you looked like.
Special note to: Blazee, "leave this one alone" I am not pulling a mrfirebird here... LOL

GirlBear · #11 10-20-2005, 10:03 PM

Hey guys. I am Kelly's sister , Holly she's still down there working on her truck. She's awesome. She wanted to know what to do about the clogged water passages. there is debris falling into the cavaty where the manifold was? I hope thats what she said. thnx

wolfox · #12 10-20-2005, 10:21 PM

I would clear them gently with a soft wire bristle brush, like a brass one. THen make sure that the sealing area is *spotlessly* clean, passing a rag soaked in Acetone or brake cleaner over the areas before laying down your RTV and fresh gaskets. Once the engine is back together, flush, refill, flush and refill (you get the idea) your cooling system until nothing but clear water is coming out. You may want to temporarily remove and shunt the lines from your heater core while doing this to minimize debris entrapment throughout the system while flushing/refilling. Refill with a 50-50 mix of your favorite coolant when done and don't think any more about it.

drdd · #13 10-20-2005, 10:27 PM

You go GirlBear !

GirlBear for President !

you can stuff rags down into so that the gasket crap doesn't fall in !

Quote:

Originally Posted by GirlBear

Hey guys. I am Kelly's sister , Holly she's still down there working on her truck. She's awesome. She wanted to know what to do about the clogged water passages. there is debris falling into the cavaty where the manifold was? I hope thats what she said. thnx

rlith · #14 10-20-2005, 10:29 PM

Use a full can of brake clean to clean that oil valley!!!! Then cover it with news paper (just stuff it in there so no more debri can get in there...) For the clogged water passages and EGR passages, Use a screwdriver to pick the crap out...(the newspaper will catch anything you miss) Do an oil change before starting it back up...

GirlBear · #15 10-20-2005, 10:30 PM

I'm back. ther is an orange/brownish in color dirt like substance packed tight in the rectangle holes , where i'm guessing water/coolant flows. as soon as I lifted the manifold up this shit fell into the engine. oh and was i pissed. what do ya think this crud is?

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