Need Help!!! Gasket Replaement Started - Page 2

drdd · #16 10-20-2005, 10:35 PM

D-O-double-DexCool ??????

Quote:

Originally Posted by GirlBear

I'm back. ther is an orange/brownish in color dirt like substance packed tight in the rectangle holes , where i'm guessing water/coolant flows. as soon as I lifted the manifold up this shit fell into the engine. oh and was i pissed. what do ya think this crud is?

wolfox · #17 10-20-2005, 10:40 PM

It is coolant that dried in the heads when the engine is shut down and there is air in the system. The air rises, coolant falls, exposing "damp" areas to be dried, leaving hardened coolant over time as the water cooks out of the coolant in layers that slowly build. This is why we're big on replacing GM issue radiator caps ASAP, so air does not become introduced and then linger in the system. Properly bleeding the air out of the system before you put the new rad cap on will help you get a leg up on air removal. After that, don't lift the cap to add more coolant, but do it from the overflow bottle. Popping the cap off of a "sealed" cooling system can indroduce a small amount of air that will, in time come back out of the system. But low coolant/air entrapment does this. It is most likely from driving around for a little while with a lower intake leak which would allow air into the system over time as fluid drained out.

GirlBear · #18 10-20-2005, 10:52 PM

man! im like totaly buggin! <---lol! Seriously tho, should i blow that crap out of cavity with air compressor? it just stuck to oil and greased areas like sand to suntan lotion. only anology i could think of.

GirlBear · #19 10-21-2005, 05:01 AM

here is a pic of the new gaskets. (stock photo) my question, the biggest gasket. whats that 4?

GirlBear · #20 10-21-2005, 05:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GirlBear

man! im like totaly buggin! <---lol! Seriously tho, should i blow that crap out of cavity with air compressor? it just stuck to oil and greased areas like sand to suntan lotion. only anology i could think of.

It just hit me SHOP-VAC!!!!! Ill suck it out. that shoul work, right??

rlith · #21 10-21-2005, 06:18 AM

Hose the entire area down with a couple of cans of brake clean... Then drop all the oil out. Stuff the entire oil galley with newspaper (flat not crumpled).. BTW, I was thinking about this thread before I went to bed last night... Did you mark the distributor before you pulled it out?

GirlBear · #22 10-21-2005, 06:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rlith

Hose the entire area down with a couple of cans of brake clean... Then drop all the oil out. Stuff the entire oil galley with newspaper (flat not crumpled).. BTW, I was thinking about this thread before I went to bed last night... Did you mark the distributor before you pulled it out?

yeah, you know what? didn't think about it til it was out. but i also snapped the ear off the cap and where it screws to the bottom. Doh!!

rlith · #23 10-21-2005, 06:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GirlBear

yeah, you know what? didn't think about it til it was out. but i also snapped the ear off the cap and where it screws to the bottom. Doh!!

Hmm.. Well you'll need a new cap, that's for sure... The reason I mentioned the dist, is that I don't want you to freak out of your car doesn't start right up or runs like ass...

You use a locked distributor.... We all know that you drop it in at 0 TDC with the rotor pointing at between 7 and 8 o'clock. (That's where the actual #1 terminal is INSIDE the cap..(follow the tube on the cap and you will see). More than likely you will drop it in 1 or 2 teeth in either direction and the engine won't start or will run like ass. Don't tighten the dist bolt down all the way, just enough to lock it on the pin... You will likely have to drop the distributor several times before you hit it... Don't get too frusated

GirlBear · #24 10-21-2005, 06:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rlith

Hmm.. Well you'll need a new cap, that's for sure... The reason I mentioned the dist, is that I don't want you to freak out of your car doesn't start right up or runs like ass...

You use a locked distributor.... We all know that you drop it in at 0 TDC with the rotor pointing at between 7 and 8 o'clock. (That's where the actual #1 terminal is INSIDE the cap..(follow the tube on the cap and you will see). More than likely you will drop it in 1 or 2 teeth in either direction and the engine won't start or will run like ass. Don't tighten the dist bolt down all the way, just enough to lock it on the pin... You will likely have to drop the distributor several times before you hit it... Don't get too frusated

Shit, If I get this Monster back together without Goin insane I'll be stoked. Distibutor,Plugs firing order thats the least of my worries at this point. I know my way around tthat stuff. Thanks for the concern tho. and ill prolly be back on bitchin about it later tho. or send my sister to ask for help. lol

tom3 · #25 10-21-2005, 10:00 AM

The usual Dexcool mud it sounds like, and I wonder if a dealer has ever put in sealer to stop this leak earlier. Clean it as best you can but you should flush the cooling system with some cleaner, I've used the Prestone stuff with good results, and then flush with clean water a couple times. I'm starting to wonder how GM stays in business with these intake leaks and cooling system foul ups.

GirlBear · #26 10-21-2005, 10:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tom3

The usual Dexcool mud it sounds like, and I wonder if a dealer has ever put in sealer to stop this leak earlier. Clean it as best you can but you should flush the cooling system with some cleaner, I've used the Prestone stuff with good results, and then flush with clean water a couple times. I'm starting to wonder how GM stays in business with these intake leaks and cooling system foul ups.

I know what u mean. My uncle and his son are long time chevy car salesmen. My entire family buys only chevy. Like 20 people. I warned everyone of Gm's dirty little secret. of course my cousin pleaded the 5th on all accounts. lol. but i suggested every one get a cooling system check-up at non chevy/gm garage.

the87hyper · #27 10-21-2005, 12:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rlith

Use a full can of brake clean to clean that oil valley!!!! Then cover it with news paper (just stuff it in there so no more debri can get in there...) For the clogged water passages and EGR passages, Use a screwdriver to pick the crap out...(the newspaper will catch anything you miss) Do an oil change before starting it back up...

Sounds to me like it the famous dexcool MUD. I'd just get what you can out, take the thermostat out and then flush the hell out of it. Maybe when your all said and done take it and get a professional back-flush done. Replace the thermostat also, for a 5.00 part what the hey right.

BlazerLT · #28 10-21-2005, 01:11 PM

Girlbear, what led to you replacing this gasket?

Jeremy Fitch · #29 10-21-2005, 01:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BlazerLT

Girlbear, what led to you replacing this gasket?

It was leaking, see her first thread here:

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...d.php?t=470208

BlazerLT · #30 10-21-2005, 02:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jeremy Fitch

It was leaking, see her first thread here:

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...d.php?t=470208

Oh right I remember that thread.

My god Girlbear you have guts, that is quite the repair for a novice. I have been thinking on replacing mine and I am chicken.

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