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#1
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My 1994 S10 Blazer 4.3L with A/C, has a bad heater core. It needs replaced but we're looking for the "how to-s" to accomplish this. Our Chilton's makes it appear that we just about have to "rip open" the entire passenger side of the vehicle from the fender back thru the instrument panel and then some. SURELY there's an easier way! Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. We're hoping to replace this heater core this weekend, so time is of the essence at this point. Thanks
And by the way, Thanks to everyone that has posted information regarding the "infamous" S10 EGR valve symptoms and replacement. We've got that one handled! Now if we can just get the heater core issue covered before cold weather hits!?? |
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#2
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Sorry guys, but you are going to have to remove the dash to access the heatercore.
__________________
Why do you never have enough time or money to do the job right the first time, but enough time and money to do it again? Got all the certifications 25 years ASE Certified Master Technician GM WCT Yea..I work at a DEALERSHIP....got a problem with that? Want to diagnose cars like the Pros? FOR SALE: OTC Perception 2 channel Labscope (badged as a Matco Reality) This is my personal labscope that I use to diagnose waveforms, like new, comes with leads and training video PM Me for details |
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#3
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OH DARN! I was so afraid that was going to be answer. But thanks anyway. We appreciate the confirmation of our "fears".
Guess we've got our work cut out for us this weekend, huh!?
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#4
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A/C discharge?
By the way GMMerlin, does that also mean that we HAVE to discharge the A/C? Or can we get just a little lucky and not have to do that??
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#5
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Heatercore removal does not call for ac discharge. Have patience and take your time. Good Luck.
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NOTHING LIKE AN OLD CAR. |
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#6
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#7
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Ok, got pretty much all the screws/bolts/nuts and all instrument panel stuff off but how on earth do we get the parking brake release handle off!!??
My husband and I have tried everything we can think of short of just BREAKING it and we really don't want to do that. HELP is of great importance right now. It's getting dark and we wanted to have the dash etc all off by tonight so we can actually get to the heater core tomorrow morning first thing. Thanks for any suggestions you might have.
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#8
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The handle is built onto the cable assembly.
On the brake ratchet end of the cable, the cable attaches to the ratchet release. Just pull the release lever back far enought to slip the cable out. On the handle end, there were 2 ways these were attached screw or tension release. Look under the handle, if there is a screw, remove it and the cable assembly is now loose from the dash. If it is the tension release, you will have to get to the back side of the dash where the cable goes through and squeeze the tabs togather.
__________________
Why do you never have enough time or money to do the job right the first time, but enough time and money to do it again? Got all the certifications 25 years ASE Certified Master Technician GM WCT Yea..I work at a DEALERSHIP....got a problem with that? Want to diagnose cars like the Pros? FOR SALE: OTC Perception 2 channel Labscope (badged as a Matco Reality) This is my personal labscope that I use to diagnose waveforms, like new, comes with leads and training video PM Me for details |
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#9
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Parking brake release handle
AH HA! Thank you so much! My husband is headed out the door right now to try your suggestion. I'll let you know how much swearing goes on..
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#10
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tingham |
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#11
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I'll try to check back every so often today! Good luck!
__________________
Why do you never have enough time or money to do the job right the first time, but enough time and money to do it again? Got all the certifications 25 years ASE Certified Master Technician GM WCT Yea..I work at a DEALERSHIP....got a problem with that? Want to diagnose cars like the Pros? FOR SALE: OTC Perception 2 channel Labscope (badged as a Matco Reality) This is my personal labscope that I use to diagnose waveforms, like new, comes with leads and training video PM Me for details |
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#12
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Well the heater core is out, new one purchased and in place. Now ALL we have to do is remember where all those wires connect to in the dash! Mark them? Why whatever for? That would make putting everything back together way too easy. It'll probably take us the rest of the day to finish this up. Anyway, THANKS to both of you for your help with this. Hopefully, we'll never have to replace another one! OH, there is one more item. Where is the fuel filter on that 1994 S10 Blazer? We've got a new one for it, but haven't been able to locate it. And again, THANKS a BUNCH! |
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#13
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Fuel filter should be on the inside of the drivers side frame rail.
__________________
Why do you never have enough time or money to do the job right the first time, but enough time and money to do it again? Got all the certifications 25 years ASE Certified Master Technician GM WCT Yea..I work at a DEALERSHIP....got a problem with that? Want to diagnose cars like the Pros? FOR SALE: OTC Perception 2 channel Labscope (badged as a Matco Reality) This is my personal labscope that I use to diagnose waveforms, like new, comes with leads and training video PM Me for details |
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#14
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Fuel Filter
Yep, you are so right again! That's exactly where it is! And again Merlin, thank you so much for your help with the heater core! I don't think we'd be done yet without your guidance. The only problem we seem to have now is that the 4LO indicator light on the dash (automatic) won't come on. Suspect we either burned out a light bulb or discumbumberated the connection when reconnecting the switch. It shifts to 4LO without a problem, just no light. So since we've been at it for about 10 hours between last night and today, we're going to leave that for tomorrow.
We bought this 94 Blazer for $200 about 4 weeks ago and so far have put about $300 in it, not counting our time/effort. That includes changing the fluids/filters; tuneup and new shocks all the way around. There isn't much else wrong with it as far as we can tell. The engine is strong and doesn't burn oil at all. OH BUT we did find that the oil dipstick tube isn't down in the oil pan. That means we can't check the oil, so next we'll be trying to fix that little issue. It appears that it has NEVER been lined up correctly! About 140K miles on it. We do still need to put new rubber on all 4-s and alignment, but other than that, I think we got a really good deal. Interior is emaculate and just a little surface rust on end gate and front doors. Exterior is black and the doors are somewhat faded, but I suspect I'll be building up my biceps tomorrow with rubbing compound and buffer to fix that dullness. At any rate, I think we got a pretty good deal based on price research I've done since we bought it. We're pretty proud of our miraculous "find". It is the Tahoe package and very nice inside. We may sell it some day, but right now, we both enjoy just driving it! But alas, I digress. Just wanted to tell you thanks again. I'm sure we'll catch you again online as we're always doing something to our vehicles! PS I'll email you a picture of it once we get it polished up, if you'd like. |
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#15
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Re: 1994 Chevy S10 Blazer
I need help with installing my heater core. I took the dash apart except for the wires near the steering wheel and the parking brake. I don't know where the heater core is. Do I need to take off the wheel well on pass. side?
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