Convert Your Cluster & Control lights to LED's How-to!

[rlith]

Yep, another how-to... For a while I had some general colored bulbs in my cluster, you know, the crappy APC ones. The problem with these incandecent bulbs is that over time they fade...(In the case of the blue one, they faded to green, and the reds faded to pink).... So I finally got off my arse and decided to upgrade my cluster to LED's. Yes, I know, some of you say..."Why don't you go with EL Glow gauges?" Well, unfortunatly, we with the 94-97 clusters have a hard time getting the right gauges for that. (Some of you know what I'm talking about). Besides, what I ended up doing was cheaper and looks pretty decent. This how-to also applies to 98+ clusters as well with the exception of the gear indicator. So let us begin...

(Forgive some of the pics, my camera sucks for close up detail)

Tools needed:
Needle nose pliers
Soldering pencil
solder
15mm socket
7mm socket
Phillips head screw driver

Start by removing the drivers side kick panel and knee panel. Once this is out of the way we need to drop the steering column. (The cluster won't come out with the steering wheel up) On either side of the steering wheel column you will see a 15mm nut. Remove both. This drops the column. Let it rest on the driver's seat.

Remove both screws above the cluster. Now carefully start pulling the dash bezel towards you until it releases from the dash. Disconnect all switch harness's and set bezel in the back seat of the car (or where ever you want to).

Now, you will see 5 7mm screws. 1 in each corner, and 1 on the bottom just left of center. Simply remove these. Now slowly pull the cluster towards you. Ok, that's it. Cluster removed.

Shown here is the back of the cluster. There are 5 194 twist style bulbs (For gauge illumination) , and 10 t1 twist bulbs. (Idiot lights).




Here we see the typical GM green socket. These suck. Why? Because they aren't slip on 194's. You actually have to disassemble the damn thing.

Here we see the original 194 socketed bulb and the new 4 LED LED bulb. (No resistors are needed as the resistors are built into the wedge)



Simply use a pair of needle nose pliers and pull firmly on the connection tab on the bulb.



The tab will slip out.


Do this for both sides of the bulb, pull the old bulb. Straighten the wires on the new bulb so they go through the top of the bulb socket. When you insert the tabs back in, simply fold the wire over the connecting tab.

Now simply put the bulb back in the back of the cluster and move to the next one.

Shown here is a t1 bulb with a base, and 1 without. The cluster itself as stated above uses 10 of these. The HVAC uses 3, the 4x4 switch uses 3. For my T1's I used hyperwhite LED's for all the idiot lights in the cluster except for the turn signals. The turnsignals are now blue.

Now realize. LED's are polarity sensitive for the ANODE/CATHODE. After installing all bulbs. Push cluster into place and turn on your lights. Note which ones are NOT coming on. Simply pull the cluster back out and re install that bulb 180 degrees.

The HVAC controls use 3 t1 bulbs without a base.. Simply pull the old bulb and slip in the new. (Remember, turn on the lights to make sure you have your polarity correct)

Shown here is the HVAC with 1 incandecent and 1 blue led.




Now of course, I abosultely hate the orange PRNOD321 lights. So of course I had to change that. On the bottom of the back of the cluster you will see a single t15 torx screw. Remove screw, lift up cover. Remove the circuit board and unplug connector.

Shown here is the light board for the gear indicator on the cluster.



Note your polarity on this board for the bulbs. Top in anode, bottom is cathode. Each bulb must be de-soldered and a new one put in its place. It takes about 5 mins per bulb to swap out. I used 5mm 2600mcd blue LED's for replacements. Again, no resistors are needed as existing resistors are in place from the original bulbs.

Here is a pic of the bulb lit up... Little fuzzy but you get the idea. It's currently in drive.



Arm rest controls and the rest of the controls on the dash were done with 3mm 200mcd bulbs to replace the built in incandecent bulbs. These were soldered in place of the old ones using a 310ohm resistor on the cathode. Don't try this unless you know how to take apart these switches! Practice on some old ones from a junker to learn how to take them apart and put them together!

So at this point all bulbs are replaced and the car is put back togeather....

HVAC----



Center shift gear indicator--



And the cluster. Yes, I put in RED for all the small gauges and blue for the Speedo and Tach... Personally I like the way it fades violet into the red. Also all the damn needles look like Light Sabers! Of course you want to light to your own tastes...





All LED's purchased at www.superbrightleds.com

[Absolut Talent]

ohhh...excellent post. I shall have to give this a shot in my spare time

[rlith]

Originally Posted by Absolut Talent

ohhh...excellent post. I shall have to give this a shot in my spare time

Thanx...Glad I could help.

[s10blazerman4x4]

i like the light saber comment. I might try this in my 91. Every dang bulb is so dimm its like whats the sense of having the dimmer switch on full blast. Might have to make a post like yours if i go for it.

[bigry2004]

hey rlith. i noticed you have the same pioneer CD player as my 97 blazer. there are some menus that i can access.. and then other times i cannot figure out how to get to them! i know that the bottom right function button if you hold it changed operation modes but is there any other way to get to certain menus?

[Officer Redneck]

rlith, that looks freakin' awesome. I don't have the cojones to takle anything electric.

[rlith]

Originally Posted by bigry2004

hey rlith. i noticed you have the same pioneer CD player as my 97 blazer. there are some menus that i can access.. and then other times i cannot figure out how to get to them! i know that the bottom right function button if you hold it changed operation modes but is there any other way to get to certain menus?

Which menu's? PM me on that

[rlith]

Originally Posted by redneck tech

rlith, that looks freakin' awesome. I don't have the cojones to takle anything electric.

Believe me, its not difficult... Only thing that's ever a pain is soldering...(such as the door control lights)

[shadow-rider]

An excellent article. I have a 93 that i would like to do that to. Where did you get the LED's and do you have a part number or price?

Thanks
Steve

[rlith]

Originally Posted by shadow-rider

An excellent article. I have a 93 that i would like to do that to. Where did you get the LED's and do you have a part number or price?

Thanks
Steve

You can see everything at www.superbrightleds.com

[wolfox]

Rlith, you rock. I did this with a Subaru and a Dodge Ram 1500 back a few years ago. It's greatest benefit is that you do not have burned out bulbs ever again, and the super-low current draw is power best used somewhere else. With your little FAQ, I have the itch to do it all over again to my 95 mud-slinger.

[SComp23]

Man thats hot. I was wondering, how even is the light distribution on the panels though, especially the guages? The only problem with LED is that they project light basically just straight forward, and barely light up anything next to them. Are they guages just basically hot spots with a little bit of light bleeding or all bright? After I did my HID Retro I put LED in my parking lights and turn signals and love it man. Once again looks sweet as hell!

[rlith]

The bulbs produce about a 35 or so degree viewing angle... My camera sucks but it has a very nice flow from the lighting. The only thing that seems a bit brighter are the needles. You can also get the bulbs with 2 in the center, and 4 pointing at a 90 degree angle for even more side washing if that's what you're looking for... They're cheap enough you can buy 1 of each to experiment with.

[kbastidas]

Originally Posted by rlith

The bulbs produce about a 35 or so degree viewing angle... My camera sucks but it has a very nice flow from the lighting. The only thing that seems a bit brighter are the needles. You can also get the bulbs with 2 in the center, and 4 pointing at a 90 degree angle for even more side washing if that's what you're looking for... They're cheap enough you can buy 1 of each to experiment with.

Very nice. You said you used hyperwhite LED's for your car, and i was wondering how it ends up being blue? I want to change my 2003 blazer lights to blue also, what color would you recommend? Also how many sockets of each would i need and where could i find them? Thank you for your precious help.

[rlith]

The hyperwhites were for the idiot lights, RED and BLUE were used for the cluster... If you look above I specified 10 t1's for the idiot lights, and 5 for the gauges. All led's were purchased at www.superbrightleds.com. As shown in the above pics, you use your old sockets. Color is individual, see the sight and pick your colors