94 Rodeo Tranny/Brake problem ??

[rodawnritz]

This morning, my 94 Rodeo, 3.2L, V6, Automatic; 102K miles - threw me a new curve ball. As I started the engine, the "Rear ABS" and the "brake" lights came on. I put it in neutral, and it coasted down the driveway with no problems. I applied the brakes, and they worked normally.

When I tried to drive on a flat surface, I had no power. It acted like the tranny was in "Winter Drive". I tried pressing the "Winter Drive" button, but it didn't do anything - NOTHING AT ALL! The Winter Drive and Power Drive buttons are dead, as is the little transmission window on the dashboard. I get no lights in there when starting the vehicle. (Normally, I would see some startup sequence, with the ATS Temp, Winter Drive, and Power Drive lights coming on for a tick). I was able to get started by moving the shift lever into the L (or 1) position, then moving my way up through the gears until I got to "drive" at around 35 mph.

The tranny was serviced about 20K miles ago by Isuzu dealer where I've taken it since I bought it new in 94. Brakes (pads/rotors - nothing with ABS has been serviced recently) are fairly new, only about 10K miles old. I can't believe this is a mechanical failure - two major systems shutting down at once screams of electrical or computer issues.

I checked the battery voltage - 12.8 volts when turned off. When the engine is running, the alternator is putting out 14.2 volts, so voltage should be ok. I do have significant frame rust, so I plan to check continuity for a bad ground on the chassis.

Any other ideas? Am I on the right track thinking electrical/computer instead of BOTH the ABS system AND the tranny going on the same morning? Thanks//Rod

[surferfletch]

This is your alternator giving up the ghost. Search for many similar posts. Use a new OEM alt.

[surferfletch]

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/t612220.html
Check this recent thread...

[rodawnritz]

OK, this is an update, and a good lesson learned. I took everybody's advice, and bought a new OEM alternator. I spent about 3 hours getting the old one out, and the new one in, only to get the same results - ABS lights and no tranny control/lights. On a whim, I started checking fuses throughout the Rodeo, and found the tail light fuse blown. I replaced this 10-Amp fuse, and everything is fine.

To confirm, I took the time to put the original alternator back in, and it also works fine. Rodeo is running great.

So, lesson learned: Check the fuses first!! Now I'm going to try to find a wiring diagram, and find out what that tail light fuse has to do with the control circuits for the ABS and tranny. Amazing.........

Now I have a "slightly used" alternator to sell on E-bay.

Thanks again for the advice. It was a fun project for my 14-year old and I. Regards.

[surferfletch]

Sorry to send you in the wrong direction!

[rodawnritz]

No worries, Superfletch,
Like I said, it was a fun project. My son is into cars a lot more than I have ever been, so it made his day to get his hands dirty and swap out the alternator.
I guess my next question should be "what made that fuse blow in the first place?" hmmm...............

Thanks again.//Rod

[Ramblin Fever]

You know those OEM alternators are gold. Personally, unless you're getting rid of the truck, I wouldn't part ways with that alternator. Find a box and store it - you'll need it eventually.

[wildlysmiley]

My story is a little different, but I would post it under a similar subject line.

We were leaving a bluegrass festival, 4+ hours from home on sunday, and when we began accelerating, there was a lurch and a sound like shifting drama, then a few minutes later, while braking, same sound, kind of a "klunk"...I thought, Christ, I can't afford a new transmission right now (just returning from not one, but two vacations in as many months!)

The noise happened less severely, but a few more times as we slowly moved out of the fair grounds and into town, where we stopped for lunch, checked the oil (1 qt. low, added oil) ate lunch, and then with great trepidation, left gingerly accelerating and braking as we went and no more sounds, until we got home, picked up our dogs, where we sat and chatted with friends, letting the engine cool again (we hadn't driven the truck for 4 days at the festival)...then when leaving the dog sitting friend's house, it klunked one more time.

Haven't driven much since home, but have only heard it one more time and it was when the engine was just starting (and I have heard it before in similar situations, but not every day).
Does this mean anything to anyone?

I had the transmission flushed about 10k miles ago and the truck has about 94k miles. Truck is a 99, engine is a 98, auto trans.

I am due (according to book and dealer) to have the rear differiantial looked at and I need brakes pretty soon and tires...can any of these have anything to do with this klunk? I pray it is not the tranny!
Thanks for any inklings of advice you can share.
jan.

[Ramblin Fever]

Is it kicking hard in any specific gear?

Is it clunking "after" you take off; like just slightly after a shift point?

Sounds to me like either a U-joint or possibly your driveshaft needs lubricated. Not too up on the 98+yrs, hopefully someone else will chime in.

[wildlysmiley]

It would be 1st gear, just starting out, before any acceleration sometimes and sometimes, just slightly after first acceleration.
Then that once, while stopping (still going very slow, in stopped, inching along traffic, so again, in 1st gear of drive).

Hadn't even thought of U-joint or the other you mentioned...whatever it is, I hope it is not expensive...i'm not ready for another big ticket item on this truck (My ten thousand dollar, five thousand dollar car ...It's worth one and I've spent the other, bet you can guess which is which

Thanks
Jan.

[surferfletch]

I was thinking more along the lines of the drive train, too. Carrier bearing? That tends to clunk when decelerating, just before stopping, though, no?

[Gizmo42]

98+ doesnt have a carrier bearing (thankfully). I'm pretty certain that Jans problem is the slip yoke on the drive shaft is dried out and needs greased.

HERE is a write up on how to take care of it. Not a very difficut job to do. I was carefull enough about undoing the factory boot clamp bands that I just reused them when I did mine. The shaft on '99s are alumium and bigger around then the one in the pics but same principle and procedure.

[wildlysmiley]

Thanks Dave!
I was talking with someone at work and he was thinking UV joints too
and he mentioned that some newer autos have "throw away" drive shafts where the entire thing has to be replaced, not just the UV joints...I am hoping that is not the case here
I'll be speaking to my mechanic about this over the weekend to see what they think and if they even work on this area

Is it dangerous to put off...will it do more damage?

[Gizmo42]

The U-joints are replacable on our shafts. I'm pretty sure its not them though, just the splines are dry.

Over time I guess it could wear the splines some so it never really quiets down. Could take quite a while though. I dont think there is any big rush to do it, could probably go for several years without causing a problem.Its not going to cause the drive shaft to come off at least. If it does turn out to be the u-joints though its best to get that done as soon as possible. You dont want one of those comming apart while driving.

BTW, its U-joint, short for "universal joint". Not picking on ya, just edumacating

[wildlysmiley]

Thanks Dave, for the heads up...it seemed wrong when I was typing it yesterday...I know just enough to ask questions

If it were your truck, would you take it to a regular mechanic or a shop that specializes in tires, brakes and the like?

Appreciate your guidance!
Jan.