Passlock System

[tundrawolf]

I need some big help.

My friend who manages a rehab center needs his suburban to drive the men around.

It's a 2000 Chevy Suburban 2WD.

The key does not have the resistor in it.

I tried the wait 10 minutes with the ignition on thing but it did nothing other than have the security light turn off and the battery light turn on (Even with a charger attached).

When I turn the ignition key to start, the lights go out and relays click, even the relay in the fuse center for the starter clicks, but the starter refuses to start or turn at all.

So, I rigged it to where I can manually make the starter start, and even though the ignition switch has zero effect on the motor, the engine actually is TRYING to start, acting like the gas tank is almost completely empty.

Could this be a passlock problem even though the key doesn't have the resistor in it?

I spent all day trying to figure this one out. Any help is very much appreciated.

[REDVSTORE]

Your key wouldn't have a resistor in it. The Passlock system will not keep the engine from turning over and even if the Passlock was bad the engine would start then die. Sounds like to me that since you can bypass the ignition switch and spin the engine over then it is probably the ignition switch. When you jumped out the starter did you have the key on? You might also want to check the connector at the bottom of the steering column. Make sure that your battery is good and fully charged.

[tundrawolf]

Well, the engine seems to want to start, then die. Did you mean it wouldn't start then die? Yes, they key was on when I jumped the starter. It seems like the ignition switch might be bad, maybe it's not fully activating the fuel pump either.

[REDVSTORE]

If the passlock is bad it will start and run for a couple of seconds then die and you can restart it and it will die again. This will happen every time that you turn the key off and try to start it. When you turn your key on can you hear the fuel pump run, it should run for a few seconds and shut off. Is the security light flashing on the instrument cluster when you turn the key on? You might just have to unplug the wiring harness at the base of the steering column and clean the contacts and make sure that it is tight.

[tundrawolf]

Well, we put it back together, and had a mechanic look at it. He tried some things, and called Chevy, who said to tow it down to them, because they have to hook a computer to it an "reset" the security system.

[tundrawolf]

Well, we put it back together, and had a mechanic look at it. He tried some things, and called Chevy, who said to tow it down to them, because they have to hook a computer to it and "reset" the security system. I thought I could hear the fuel pump going, but a pressure test revealed no pressure. When we tried the 10 minute reset, the security light would go off, and a red battery light would come on. Also, the gauges wouldn't work, and the mechanic said the security system cut power to all of the subsystems. (But the radio still worked)

[tapherb]

hi, I have a 2003 or 2004 malibu w. these symptoms. not sure if i have
passlock 2, passkey 3 system. does it matter?
will cutting yellow wire while running work? thanks

[bmaninc]

I've encountered the problem with my beat up, 1996 Pontiac Grand Am. The theft light is always on and I can hear it activate when I turn the key.

I know that you must cut the yellow wire, but this car is never going to be serviced by the manufacturer again, so I have no interest in putting in a toggle switch.

Can I simply cut the wire and let it be? By the way, is it the yellow wire underneath the steering wheel? The instructions across the internet aren't that clear to me.

Thanks very much, and I love these forums.

By the way, you don't necessarily NEED to wait the 10 minutes. The first time I try to start the car, it 100% won't work, starts then dies almost immediately. However, the second time, you can almost force it to start by making the starter struggle, but the engine does rev really hard for a couple of seconds, then it works "fine."

[tunabreath]

Someone explain to me why the toggle switch is just a bad idea. If it is, why does GM recommend it to do when installing remote starters.

To do the toggle switch:

Cut yellow wire while car is running
Shut car off
Solder in switch with the switch in the OFF position
Start car, security light should be on
Put switch in ON position, security light should go off (provided passlock is working at the time)
Put switch back to OFF, light should come back on

Everyone is saying that if the battery goes dead and the passlock system fails (whether through BCM or ignition or whatever), then the car will not start no matter what position the switch is in. Well if the passlock system fails completely if you dont have the switch, it wont start anyways.

[Jgill450]

I've got a good one, my 98 malibu just stopped starting. First off, not a fuel or coil problem. We checked all sensors (24x, 7x, camshaft) and nothing. I tested the ignition module and it is good, tried different keys; no joy. The key bit of info is that I'm not seeing the anti-theft light on my dash after the initial power on test. I'm now looking at either a bad BCM or switch to BCM wire. Any other suggestions would be appreciated.

[Jgill450]

Originally Posted by tapherb

hi, I have a 2003 or 2004 malibu w. these symptoms. not sure if i have
passlock 2, passkey 3 system. does it matter?
will cutting yellow wire while running work? thanks

I saw where cutting the wire AFTER the on pulse is sent to the BCM will work, when you turn the key on it sends an on pulse to the computer, turning the key off sends a second pulse which tells the computer it's off; cutting the wire after the first pulse stops the second pulse from resetting the system. This procedure may cause other problems down the road.

[aka120]

I have a 2004 Pontiac Grand AM SE1 3.4l AT.
A few months after i bought the car (roughly 85k miles on it) it started giving me a starting problem. I only vaguely remember it happening maybe once every 4-6 months or so, before then it was never a problem. Now, almost 2 years later(92k miles), every single time I try to crank the car I am having to leave the key in the ignition turned to the "ON" position for a minimum of 10 mins, and then right at 10 minutes I can hear the fuel pump engage and then the car will turn over successfully. This works every time.

Going into further details, the security light has never come on while the car is running, it has never flashed on either. However, when the key is turned to the "ON" position without trying to crank the car...the security light does turn on and stays on until A) cranking the car or B) turning the key to the "OFF" position and then turning the key back to the "ON" position.
I have just realized after reading through some of this thread that I am using a spare key I had a local dealership make me, the original key is quite worn but I never had a problem starting the car when i was using it as I recall. Another thing is that more recently I have had other issues spawn up...one of them being the car dying on me at random times, it has only done it a few times but seems to be doing it more frequently now.. i.e. turn the key to on position.. fuel pump does not turn on so wait 10-15 minutes, when fuel pump engages turn the key to the "START: position and starts flawlessly at that point but when the car idles down and you shift the transmission into reverse to back out of the drive way the car goes dead just as soon as it is shifted. I have also had it go dead at me once at a red light, only that one time tho. The other odd thing that has started recently is that when I turn the key to the "ON" position...9 times out of 10 the locks are locking every 20 seconds or so until i start the car or turn the key to the "OFF" position. No other electrical oddities, just the starting and door locks.

Judging by the passkey system and I really thought that was my problem at first, I am now discovering it looks to be something else maybe with the ignition switch itself or the BCM or maybe it is a combination of things I don't really know. I had a friend of mine who's a mechanic hook up his scanner last year some time ago.. but the car would crank fine every time we tried for about an hour. At that time the starting problem was very intermittent though, so I will get him to check it again soon maybe if he can find some free time.

I have the car in the shop right now due to a transmission oil cooler leak which is a whole other $500 story for something else I wont go into here...but when I get the car back next week I will try the original key and see if that makes any difference, if not I guess I will try to get my friend to hook up his scanner again and see what he can find out.

I was really hoping to try to bypass the key recognition circuit but it seems that would do me no good at all with my symptoms I love the car but it is just letting me down so much, with gasket leaks, cooler leaks into the cooling system, starting problems, sigh.. well if any of my symptoms sound familiar please give me a heads up, possibly a bad BCM?

Thanks, much appreciated and also thanks for letting me vent.

[allistowing@gmail.]

We had our anti theft lock on in our car, we could not figure out how to start the car, then we went on this site and found out about turning the key and just waiting---well it worked -----Thank you --We drove away very happy,


Allis

[ShadeTreeJack]

I have a 98 Malibu and key won't turn. I am replacing the whole ignition switch assembly. There is not a 'pellet' resistor in the key like my Camar oand Bonneville. There is the three little wires that go into the Key Tumbler cylinder. QUESTION: will the replacement key tumbler work? that is, does the little circuit thing the three wires go into have a coded resistance?

[amandaaaa]

i have an 2003 chevy malibu. there is 116,000 miles on it. great condition except for the theft system problem. it was happening like once every 2 months. now it happens at least like 3 times a week. it is so effin frustrating. im young and know nothing about cars. so im a lil confused about what to do. ive heard that you just cut the yellow wire but i dont want to start cutting stuff when i dont know what im doin. there isnt a simpler way to bypass the system without having to cut the wires? ive been told by some mechanics that i need a new ignition switch. could that solve my problem?? any response to this i would greatly appreciate. thanks.