Passlock System

[manicmechanix]

I don't think a used BCM will work without being reprogrammed. If the problem is the BCM the used one might get your IP working but the BCM will send the wrong code to your PCM and it won't turn on the fuel injectors. There's a relearn procedure but I don't know if that will make the PCM recognize the replacement BCM. I think you can reprogram a used BCM, but dealers usually only like to put in new parts and they might say it won't.

If you can get a used BCM for real cheap, the PCM might (can say for sure) learn the BCM'S password after it triggers theft and you leave key on for 10 mins and crank it again, or it might start and the theft light will go into default override. It's easy to get to the BCM and if you can get a used one real cheap it might be worth trying. I think replacing the ignition cwitch is a lot more work.

[darthbuz]

well hell
I just got dont trying to see if there were any codes in the thing and nada everything says okay

looks like I will be doing the dealership bendover

[darthbuz]

dealer says $250 just to hook it up and see whats wrong, and that yes they do alot of these

the wife is asking me how much to make it go... I have no clue and nor do they

[manicmechanix]

Originally Posted by darthbuz

well hell
I just got dont trying to see if there were any codes in the thing and nada everything says okay

looks like I will be doing the dealership bendover

The thing is without an advanced scanner like the tech2, it wont read body codes. What kind of scanner was it you used?

$250 just to hook up or even to diagnosis sounds totally unreasonable. Normally diagnosis would run under $90 at a dealer. I would call another dealer. You can take a chevy to any GM dealer.

So when you turn the key to RUN you still get no instrument panel? What does it do when you turn it to crank? Does it crank OK but not start? Have you tried leaving the key in ON for 10mins, turn the key off and try cranking again? It probably won't help because you have a problem beyond the theft deterrent since you have no instrument panel activity.

[slls]

Originally Posted by darthbuz

well hell
I just got dont trying to see if there were any codes in the thing and nada everything says okay

looks like I will be doing the dealership bendover

I would check the cluster fuse for power both sides, no power to cluster fuse is usually ignition switch, electrical one.

[darthbuz]

yeah I thought $250 was a bit much too, but its the only game in town.

all the fuses are good the switch I am perty sure is toasted you can pull the key out when in the on mode,

[darthbuz]

Originally Posted by darthbuz

yeah I thought $250 was a bit much too, but its the only game in town.

all the fuses are good the switch I am perty sure is toasted you can pull the key out when in the on mode,

well here is the story......
$42.00 for towing back to the house from wall mart. 10 min to hook up charger and power cords

3 min to pull the radio and ignition switch out

2 min wondering what the cable thing with the white plug in the back of it is,
pulled that out IP starts working lites gas gauge bells and whistals

hit the go button just on the pure chance.

car starts up just fine, and after I put all back togeather sans that cable in the back that locks what have ya....

I win win win win

[manicmechanix]

Originally Posted by darthbuz

well here is the story......
$42.00 for towing back to the house from wall mart. 10 min to hook up charger and power cords

3 min to pull the radio and ignition switch out

2 min wondering what the cable thing with the white plug in the back of it is,
pulled that out IP starts working lites gas gauge bells and whistals

hit the go button just on the pure chance.

car starts up just fine, and after I put all back togeather sans that cable in the back that locks what have ya....

I win win win win

Cool sounds like there's a bad connection at the the ignition switch or maybe a dicy ignition switch. That cable is so you can't take the key out without putting it in park first.

[darthbuz]

well when I unplugged that everything came alive
so what ever it is I am good
will still do the fix to it

[MNSBMOM]

I have a 2002 Saturn SL2 with the passlock system. At first I thought my problems were with the fuel system but after reading ALOT of these posts I believe the passlock system is faulty and why hasn't there been a recall on it? My system doesn't even work stopped around 90 thousand miles That was just the first time the dam car left me stranded for HOURS with my new born baby. Try to turn the car over and the gas guage read empty, security light flashed then stayed on, service light(hand with wrench) stays on. The second time (Apox 6mos later) going down the driveway just died. Same thing with the lights and won't cranck over for nothing. Towed it back up the driveway several hours later and the thing fired right up. This last time same thing got in tried to turn it over and gas empty, security light staying on, service light on. tried for hours nothing. I knew wasn't gas had 3/4 tank. On the advice of a 20 yr exp mec my guy switched the fuel relay with the blower relay this started the car right up haven't had a prob so far but I know it's a matter of time and I'll be kicking the tires again cursing ever buying a Saturn. Before that happens I'm going to go ahead and try some of the things I have read and see what happens.

[manicmechanix]

Originally Posted by MNSBMOM

I have a 2002 Saturn SL2 with the passlock system. At first I thought my problems were with the fuel system but after reading ALOT of these posts I believe the passlock system is faulty and why hasn't there been a recall on it?

Automakers don't generally recall things unless it's a safety issue ,or maybe if it has an extremely high failure rate early on. It would be nice if they'd recall any problem that has a high failure rate though.

My system doesn't even work stopped around 90 thousand miles That was just the first time the dam car left me stranded for HOURS with my new born baby. Try to turn the car over and the gas guage read empty, security light flashed then stayed on, service light(hand with wrench) stays on. The second time (Apox 6mos later) going down the driveway just died. Same thing with the lights and won't cranck over for nothing. Towed it back up the driveway several hours later and the thing fired right up. This last time same thing got in tried to turn it over and gas empty, security light staying on, service light on. tried for hours nothing. I knew wasn't gas had 3/4 tank. On the advice of a 20 yr exp mec my guy switched the fuel relay with the blower relay this started the car right up haven't had a prob so far but I know it's a matter of time and I'll be kicking the tires again cursing ever buying a Saturn. Before that happens I'm going to go ahead and try some of the things I have read and see what happens.

Your problem probably isn't the passlock. Your fuel guage not working and the service engine soon light was probably because of the relay giving out all along or something similar to that. The passlock bypass trick is really just a cheap fix for cars that are having passlock issues only. I wouldn't cut up the wiring when it seems you don't have a passlock issue.

[dr123]

I have a 2001 Grand Am. Just replaced the Ignition Cylinder. Did the 10 minute sequence. The car started. But this morning it didn't start again and the engine light comes on. Do you think the BCM needs to be replaced or the car still needs to relearn?

[manicmechanix]

Well it might still need to relearn the new ignition cylinder, but if the check engine light came on and not the service vehicle soon or the theft light, then you have an engine trouble code you need to pull.

[maggiejo22]

Could someone give me information on what to do.

My parents 02 Malibu anti theft has been replaced 3 times in 3 1/2 years.
It works good until after that wonderful 12 month warranty runs out.

Anywho its started acting up again, not being able to be started until 15 mins goes by.
However, there light stays on constant now, but still are having issues everyonce and awhile starting.

My question is before I try to do the resistor trick.
Should I try to relean it back in. the whole 33min trick?

What happens if the light still stays on?
Is it safe to do the trick?


Just want to make sure I do this procedure correctly since its my parents car.

Also, resistors usually have stripes, does it matter which end goes to the yellow wire or black?

My understanding is to cut the yellow wire in two pieces while the car is running?

Then turn the car off.

Attach a meter (+) to the yellow wire that goes to the ignition
Then the (-) to the black wire.

Crank car over to get a resistance..... 2.3 - 8.5 ohms it should read.

I'm confused about the yellow wire when adding the resistor.
Do you wire the two yellow wires back together attach the resistor there and then to the black?

Or do you wire the resistor to the yellow that goes to the BCM then to the black?
If this is the case, then what do you do with the other end of the yellow that goes to the ignition?

Please tell me I'm going in the right direction here.

Thanks in advance.

[windmaple]

My 01 Malibu has the no-start problem too, although I am not sure if it's the passlock issue.
Here is the sympton:
1. if I turn the key to on, the 'theft system' light comes on, steady, not blinking; all the gauge don't work, dashboard lights are out. But I do have power, I can roll the window up and down, cd/radio works.

2. Continuing, I don't hear the fuel pump noise, and certainly it won't start. Sometimes when I get lucky and leave the key in there for a while, the dashboard lights come on, all gauges back to normal, 'theft system' light goes off and I hear the fuel injecting, then I can start the car

3. In one those 'lucky' days, sometimes the engine stalls when I am driving. It has happened 4 times, all after I make a turn, left or right.

I know this doesn't sound 100% like the passlock system, but could anyone please shed light? Could it be ignition switch or BCM?