Passlock System

[FISH96]

GREETINGS TO ALL,
IN THE ABOVE SCHEMATIC:
IS THE IGNITION KEY IN THE IGNITION SWITCH?
IF THAT IS SO, IN WHAT POSTION IS THE SWITCH, ie, OFF,ON,ACCESSORY?

REGARDS TO ALL,
FISH96

[Hoppy2]

When I did the bypass the key had to be in the start position. I am not sure if it will work in the On position at all.

[ponchonutty]

Well actually to clarify this you need to CRANK over the ignition and let it rest in the ON position. During the crank is when the PK2 sends out the proper resistance.

[Hark]

Okay - I've tried to follow thru this post to find a solution - but there are way too many pages to wade thru. My daughter's 1997 Malibu with 125000 miles on it has this problem, antitheft light blinks and it won't start, she turns the key to accessories and leaves it for a while then it will start. Last time it happened though she had to wait 30 minutes, so it's obviously getting to the point of no return. Can someone reply with the technical service bulletin site to put the toggle switch on a 97 3.1? It seems like there is a way to put in a switch instead of just cutting yellow wires. The first couple of pages of threads refer to putting in a toggle switch but it mentions 98 and newer models. There's no check engine light on when this happens, just the antitheft blinking, so I haven't taken it anywhere to check any codes.

Any help appreciated. It's been a good little car for us, but with that many miles would like to fix this before it becomes a major expense, and she drives 1/2 hour to school so it's not ideal to leave her waiting for 1/2 hour in freezing weather. Another weird thing - is this just a cold or damp weather thing? It didn't do it all summer long and now it's acting up quite frequently again.
Thanks!

[Hoppy2]

Um, If I recall correctly the engine will not crank with the yellow wire cut on the passlock system when you turn the ignition to start.

[bboyles]

just got my 2001 grand am from shop to have passlock system repaired. got so angry at price I had to pay I fired off a letter to Richard Wagoner, Jr. CEO of GM letting him know how disgusted that GM does not do a recall on the passlock system. hope others out there will do the same.

[slls]

Some one claims all you have to do if you get a security light and no start. Turn the key to run, shift into neutral and it will start. I have never tried it but another poster said it also worked for him. Worth a try.

[ponchonutty]

No, it will not start if it's already locked out when you put it into nuetral. Also, on some '98 and all the newer ones you could just cut the yellow wire while it's running and it'll start everytime until the car's battery goes dead. On '97 there's nothing that I know of on how to bypass it because part of the system goes through the instrument cluster. Sometimes it's the cluster, bcm, or decoder that can be bad.

[Jemru]

The passlock feature has NO USE what so ever. Its made to prevent theives from starting your car without the key.

Yesteday I broke the pins in my ignition switch by accident after forcing my key out after it became stuck. Now u can start it with anything in of a keyshape such as a screw driver.


Im a fan of General Motors, they have STRONG POWERFUL engines and nice bodyies. But their electronics are MENT to fail after a certain amount of clicks 258,xxxKM is where mine is. My temp guage stopped working, abs, parkbrake, engine check, and door open light is on.

My previous 93 civic was up in its 400,000km age, buring black smoke and all that, but still ran when i started it with no dash lights.

[foxtrot]

2002 MonteCarloSS 35,700 miles
For the past 500 miles or so Ive been having what sound like passlock trouble. But a little different than what Ive read here.
When cold it will always start, after a little while the security light comes on and ding ding ding andI look and see the volt meter reading a big fat 0 then the lights will alternate security, battery, service engine soon.
Then the volt meter with resume reading 14 volt or so and all lights will go out except the security light, for a few minutes then ding ding ding and we are at it again. Some times the traction light will come on but not very often.
A few times the car would not start untill I played with the locks on the ket fob. Once I had to wait 10 minutes to start and once I had to do the 10 minute relearn thing but most of the time it will start just the lights come on and the volt gauge goes off.
I bought a obd2 reader off e-bay and later found out it was only good for engine codes.
Im thinking of the resistor fix, but wondering if this problem could be in the BCM ?
Any thoughts???????????????????????????????????????:uh oh:

[ponchonutty]

Sounds like you have a faulty ignition switch and not necessarly a PK2 issue.

[Yello72]

Changed the lock cylinder and now it will crank but not start. The theft system light is flashing. I there a way to reset this. It is a 97 with a 2.4 and auto trans.

[MT-2500]

Originally Posted by Yello72

Changed the lock cylinder and now it will crank but not start. The theft system light is flashing. I there a way to reset this. It is a 97 with a 2.4 and auto trans.

Try the relearn.
The book says to clear codes first.
Turn key on and hit start and if no start turn back to run for 10 minutes untill light goes out.
The back off and then on and see if light goes out.
Then see if it will start.

If battery is low you may need a charger or jumper on it for the 10 minutes key on relearn.
Good Luck
MT

[edfromut]

I have an 03 Alero. It cranked but failed to start last week. I'm not sure I heard the fuel pump run or not. The next day I turned the key to On and I heard the fuel pump run for a few seconds and then it turned off. I proceded to crank it and it started right up. It started and ran for several days with no problems. Then yesterday it would crank but not start again. I turned the key to on and I did not hear the fuel pump prime the system. I did hear a couple of clicks under the hood. Also when I turned off the key I heard a series of about 6 clicks right in the engine area. I checked the fuel pump relay and the fuses under the hood and everything was OK. Is this a PK problem, an ignition cylinder problem, or maybe a BCM problem? Is the fuel pump acting up? When I cranked the engine the Security light stays on for just a few seconds and then goes out. If this is a PK problem will the fuel pump still kick on or do the fuel injectors just cut out? Do I hear the F/I clicking under the hood when I turn the key off? I never heard this before. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

E

[PennyAnte]

I did the procedure to deactivate my passlock security system. (started car, cut yellow wire, installed a cheap, temporary toggle switch). It worked (system light on to indicate it was disabled). I didnt want the security light on, and didnt want to keep that cheap toggle switch so I bought a nice switch that looks like part of the dashboard, drilled a little hole through the dash...inserted the switch that had a teethed nut underneath to hold it flat and solid and centered it above on the radio faceplate. Looks very professional and it works. I installed it reversed from the directions so that the security light is not lit when the security system is disabled because that light is very bright and annoying. By reversing the switch, Security light is on if the security system is Enabled. I will always keep it disabled so that I can start the car, thus the light is off.

I really want to troubleshoot this tho. I want to disconnect the battery and reconnect it to make sure it will still start. I need to know... should I have the switch in the position that the wires are in the closed position (where it makes for a continuous connection) or should I have the switch in the disabled position (wires open, not touching) so that the security system is deactivated when the battery is reconnected?

Thanks ahead in case I can't find my way back to this thread/site.