upcoming brake job (front disk/rear drum)

[enslow]

It's been awhile since I've done drum brakes. The last time I did drum brakes, they used two return springs that often needed replacement with every brake job.

My 99 Lesabre needs a brake job, front and rear. I have already noticed that the return springs are replaced with a horseshoe shaped spring. Here's what I plan to replace in the rear:
1) shoes (duh!)
2) wheel cylinder

Is there anything else I should change? Also, what does everyone think of ACDelco Advantage? Check the link below.

Your OE auto parts source for ACDelco, Motorcraft, Denso, Akebono, KYB, Cardone Select, Wagner, and many more great products

Front brakes:
1) pads (duh!)
2) calipers

And of course fresh brake fluid to do a complete flush of the hydraulic system.

Is there anything else I should be changing? Is it adequate to reuse that horseshoe style return spring?

[Tech II]

I assume you have done brakes before?

As for the fronts, make sure you remove the sliding pins, and clean/lube them.....turn rotors if still in spec, or else replace......front surface of hub bearing has to be cleaned of all rust before re installing rotor

If you have never done the rears, you are in for a treat, especially if you don't have the special tool for the horseshoe style return spring.....it can be done without it, but it is not easy......recommend you do one side at a time, in case you run into problems on reassembly....just have to lube the adjusting screw and the lands of the backing plate where the shoe rides....should turn drums if within spec....some wheel cylinders use a metric bolt, and some use a torx bolt....check first to see if you have the right socket for this...

[enslow]

Originally Posted by Tech II

I assume you have done brakes before?

As for the fronts, make sure you remove the sliding pins, and clean/lube them.....turn rotors if still in spec, or else replace......front surface of hub bearing has to be cleaned of all rust before re installing rotor

If you have never done the rears, you are in for a treat, especially if you don't have the special tool for the horseshoe style return spring.....it can be done without it, but it is not easy......recommend you do one side at a time, in case you run into problems on reassembly....just have to lube the adjusting screw and the lands of the backing plate where the shoe rides....should turn drums if within spec....some wheel cylinders use a metric bolt, and some use a torx bolt....check first to see if you have the right socket for this...

Thanks,

Yes, I've done the brakes on my Grand Marquis for years and learned to change calipers with pads every time. Up here in Vancovuer, if you try to reuse calipers, one always siezes. I did forget to mention I'd be checking the rotor thickness. I am considering just getting the ACDelco Advantage if they're not too expensive. I know nothing about ACDelco Advantage, except that it cannot be too bad, and is probably an improvement over the stock rotors.

I realize that I'm probably in for a treat with that horseshoe spring. Is it worth my trouble to find the right tool, or will other standard tools do considering I'm not doing this job every day?

[enslow]

I inquired into the cost of the ACDelco Advantage. Rotors for my car would be $50 each, whereas the ACDelco Professional would be $100. It seems that the Advantage line is soley to compete against the offshore product lines. I can't see the $50 rotor actually being better than than the $100 rotor.

[Tech II]

When you look at aftermarket rotors, even though they are "packaged" under different names, just about all of them are made in China....

Can get some of these for under $50.....have had good luck with some....have some that have pulsated right out of the box......the store had no more in stock...store said they would pay for a quick cut....customer wanted no part of that......got rotors from another store, a little more expensive, I lost my "time" on the juggling of rotors....

I didn't know about the tool until I had done this job about 10X's, and had a "way" of doing it....the first time was a bugger....the tool just makes it so much easier....

But I just thought of something....you have a slight advantage....you are replacing the wheel cylinders....so, before putting the cylinder back in, put the shoes in first and attach the spring, then you can spread the shoes at the top to install the adjuster....with that in place, then you push the pistons in and then install the wheel cylinder(if you need a little more room, just open up the adjuster a little)...easy, peezy, lemon squeezy.....

Remember, one side at a time....

[happydog500]

I did my fronts resonantly. I wasn't thinking and put them on the same way the old came off. Whoever did the last job put the pads on the wrong side. I have the tab that rubs to let you know the brakes are getting low on the leading edge. They won't let me (or whoever has the car when the breaks wear-out next time) know they are getting low until the pads are completely gone.

It bugs me and will change them but I replaced only one of the rotors. I didn't even turn the old one so the pads will be worn funny when I switch.

Sounds basic, but just want to add what I can to help. Make sure the tabs are trailing, or in front of the caliper.

Here in my area, I can get good rotors for only a few dollars more then the cheap ones, and only a little more then turning the old ones. The more expensive store had the good rotors for I think $3 more then the cheap ones.

Chris.