Brake question...Calipers ?

[JCL82]

So I change the brakes pads on the back wheels, and one rotor on the passager side because it ran all the way down and mess up the rotor. So did that, I got everything back together. So at low speeds my truck feels normal, except when i stop, and ease off the brakes , my turck moves no where, like i still have my foot on the brakes. I have to really press the gas pedal to get on the highway , or anywhere to get up the speed. My dad thought the calipers were messed up and we test that by him pressing the brakes to see if the calipers come out and they do, Then we use the c-clap to push them back in.

Anyways i get out my truck and touch the rotors on the back and their hot as hell.. Front's' not bad at all..

So obviously my brakes are touching the rotors, So what do you think the problem is ? My dad thinks it the calipers are messed up. but we did not bleed the system because we didn't open up the lines.

Also I engaged the parking brakes to see what would happen and well i don't think their touching the rotors...

2002 chevy silverado 1500 170,000 miles.

ONly reason we didn't change the front yet is because we ran out of light, i'm not driving the truck right now. Also the fronts didn't wear that bad.

[j cAT]

I just replaced the rear calipers and rotors on my 2000 silverado...the calipers on the 1500 silverado are defective poorly designed cheap crap...

my calipers stuck when they where half way pushed back...

remove the caliper one at a time and plug the hose so you don't lose too much brake fluid.....If you can push back the piston by hand with the caliper removed and with a small air pump push piston out with little pressure it is good...if not its bad....I pushed the piston out totally from bore what I found was the pistons to be egg shaped not round...you will see what I mean if you go this far very poor quality...


these can be had for about 60-70.oo with a lifetime warrantee..
when ever you do a pad replacement never push back the pistons with the bleed screw closed...always open this bleed screw...the contaminated fluid is in the piston, when you push that fluid back into the system it can foul the ABS valve body now your totally screwed....

clean fluid also gives a better brake and will generate a higher pressure.

normally these 1500 park brakes don't work ...this is another design flaw....the shoes in the rotor drum move too much so as you drive they wear out even if you never even used the park brake...

post back your findings.. my rear brakes have been working great now for 6 months...as you mentioned the rotors should not be hot...with this done correctly you will see that..

[JCL82]

Soo, thanks... Soo i didn't do that and well my dad told me to just take the cap off the brake fluid filler.. LOL...

Well how bad is a abs foul up ? You know most people would be heart broken about it... but all i can do is smile, because knowing it's to late to do anything...... My guess my dad doesn't know about these knew systems...

anyways tomorrow i'm goin work on it...

[waitingforcolumbus]

My co-worker said this happened to him on his 99. The brand new pads were dragging to the pint they were smoking. He said when he removed the new pads, the backing plate was different than the original pads. The backing plate was dragging on something.
I've never seen mine and I can't remember exactly what he said. Would they drag on guide pins? The piston will certainly push the pad out but the pads need to float when you release the brake.
Good luck.

[jdmccright]

I'll comment on the backing/shim plate on some brake pads because it is here that I have seen some reason for poor piston/bore alignment resulting in sticking calipers.

Some backing shims have a paint or rubber coated surface to help reduce squealing. The problem with this is that the brake piston doesn't contact the whole pad backing surface, only that narrow circular area of the cup edge. Eventually, the coating wears away and does so unevenly, causing the pad to become out-of-true with respect to the piston. The pad starts to wear unevenly, causes the piston to become cocked in the bore, and eventually leads to overheating of the rotor and warpage.

Simiar to this are shims made of cheaper steel rather than stainless steel...as well as unshimmed pads on steel backing. As the plain steel rusts, it grows and expands unevenly causing it to become crooked. I've seen this condition exaggerated on trucks that see alot of salt and water.

Because of this, I only buy pads that have an uncoated, stainless steel backing shim. I apply an anti-squeal compound (not silicone) and assemble it before it is dry. Hope this helps!

[j cAT]

Originally Posted by waitingforcolumbus

My co-worker said this happened to him on his 99. The brand new pads were dragging to the pint they were smoking. He said when he removed the new pads, the backing plate was different than the original pads. The backing plate was dragging on something.
I've never seen mine and I can't remember exactly what he said. Would they drag on guide pins? The piston will certainly push the pad out but the pads need to float when you release the brake.
Good luck.

these pads have no backing plate...the pad body[steel] is all there is...I coat the pad body with anti sieze compound..this prevents any pad/braking noises....

it is true many a time , the sticking of the NEW pads may very well be from poor quality of the pad steel body...I have on many occations filed the pad body to seat correctly with minimum binding in the caliper housing..when they manufacture these steel componets they do not take the time to properly finish the edges these BURRS can and do catch on the caliper guide s/steel ...

[Nickboudro]

I've had this problem except in the front. 2001 silvy 1500 Z-71 with 150,000 miles. I've always done regular maintenance and recently installed new rotors in the front as well as the best pads I could buy from oreillys. Well one day I pulled in my driveway after the 40 mile trip home from work and my drivers side wheel well had smoke pouring from it. My 22" rim was so hot you couldnt touch it, and I could hear and smell the balljoint grease sizzling. I hit it with a water hose for about 30 minutes, never done it since.

BUT, it is still acting up. Ever so often the ABS and Brake lights will come on, but no difference in driving. I have noticed that after removing the wheel, I can't turn the rotor without a lot of effort while the pads and caliper is still on, tells me the caliper is sticking. Not sure if that would make the ABS lights come on, but nevertheless I'm changing both calipers in the front as well as the brake lines this weekend. Matter of fact they will be here in the morning.

If thats not the problem, I'll throw some wheel sensors at it and hopefully that'll be it. At oreillys I spent $60 a piece for the calipers and like $26 each on the rubber brake lines. The calipers have a $55 each core charge.

Also on the way are inner and outer tierod ends, lower balljoints (already have new ones on the top) and I'm replacing the front differential shaft seals. (they are leaking very bad).

All in all I've spent $532 on parts (including the mobil 1 I bought cause might as well change the oil while I'm at it). Today I removed the Tierod assembly from the drivers side and wow, that sucker is shot.

BTW, its a lowered 4X4.....LOL

[JCL82]

Update...

It’s easy to do this stuff when you done it just a 2 week before... The calipers were at fault, after replacing both it went in with no problem. A few things, the new rotor (the old one survived the heat) I bought was messed up because of the heat and they could not cut it. Had both older ones cut. And got new brake pads for the back, AutoZone replace them for free (warranty).

I found out I should not listen to Chilton auto books for torques on guide pins, stripped the pin right out. Had to use an older one...Which bring me to a thought, is there a website that gives out right information about what torque everything should be? I listen to the book and said make the caliper guide pins 31 ft/lbs, on top it said everything will be in ft/lbs unless stated different.

Also I did not change the front, to tell you the truth I think someone change the front calipers in this truck before I got it. They don’t look that wore, even though I got the truck 100’000 miles ago. But maybe why the back was wearing so bad because the caliper were messed up bad.

[JCL82]

Update...

It’s easy to do this stuff when you done it just a 2 week before... The calipers were at fault, after replacing both it went in with no problem. A few things, the new rotor (the old one survived the heat) I bought was messed up because of the heat and they could not cut it. Had both older ones cut. And got new brake pads for the back, AutoZone replace them for free (warranty).

I found out I should not listen to Chilton auto books for torques on guide pins, stripped the pin right out. Had to use an older one...Which bring me to a thought, is there a website that gives out right information about what torque everything should be? I listen to the book and said make the caliper guide pins 31 ft/lbs, on top it said everything will be in ft/lbs unless stated different.

Also I did not change the front, to tell you the truth I think someone change the front calipers in this truck before I got it. They don’t look that wore, even though I got the truck 100’000 miles ago. But maybe why the back was wearing so bad because the caliper were messed up bad.

[JCL82]

Update...

It’s easy to do this stuff when you done it just a 2 week before... The calipers were at fault, after replacing both it went in with no problem. A few things, the new rotor (the old one survived the heat) I bought was messed up because of the heat and they could not cut it. Had both older ones cut. And got new brake pads for the back, AutoZone replace them for free (warranty).

I found out I should not listen to Chilton auto books for torques on guide pins, stripped the pin right out. Had to use an older one...Which bring me to a thought, is there a website that gives out right information about what torque everything should be? I listen to the book and said make the caliper guide pins 31 ft/lbs, on top it said everything will be in ft/lbs unless stated different.

Also I did not change the front, to tell you the truth I think someone change the front calipers in this truck before I got it. They don’t look that wore, even though I got the truck 100’000 miles ago. But maybe why the back was wearing so bad because the caliper were messed up bad.

[j cAT]

Originally Posted by JCL82

Update...

It’s easy to do this stuff when you done it just a 2 week before... The calipers were at fault, after replacing both it went in with no problem. A few things, the new rotor (the old one survived the heat) I bought was messed up because of the heat and they could not cut it. Had both older ones cut. And got new brake pads for the back, AutoZone replace them for free (warranty).

I found out I should not listen to Chilton auto books for torques on guide pins, stripped the pin right out. Had to use an older one...Which bring me to a thought, is there a website that gives out right information about what torque everything should be? I listen to the book and said make the caliper guide pins 31 ft/lbs, on top it said everything will be in ft/lbs unless stated different.

Also I did not change the front, to tell you the truth I think someone change the front calipers in this truck before I got it. They don’t look that wore, even though I got the truck 100’000 miles ago. But maybe why the back was wearing so bad because the caliper were messed up bad.

did the info I gave you help diagnose the calipers ?

on the torque values , get a chart that lists fastener diameter/torque..
this chart can be used to check if there was an error in the manual torque spec...I believe the pins are torqued to around 12 ft lbs...also some medium lock tight just a drop ...

I believe the caliper mounting is 30-35ft lbs and be sure to put some medium lock tight on those as they can if not torqued properly loosen ....then the caliper will scape into you wheels..