Have a couple of questions about ball joint/tie rod end replacement

[saturnthegiant]

I posted this over in the Jimmy forum, but no replies....I need some help. This past weekend my buddy and i did a rear brake job and replaced a leaky brake line on my '99 4WD Jimmy and we decided while we were inspecting the front brakes for wear, we'd check the front suspension componenets for wear, since the front tires had been wearing on the inside. The bottom of the front wheels visibly stick out farther than the top. Using the push-pull method we determined that the ball joints were bad on both sides, and there is a ton of play and worn bushings in the outer tie rod ends.

I did a search on this in the Blazer forum and found the posts about replacing the ball joints, and the tie rod ends seem to be doable. Neither my friend (who's more mechanically inclined than me) or i have ever done this before, but i can't afford to pay the shop $50 or more /hr in labor if i can do it myself. But i need to know the answer to a couple of questions.
1. I went to price "pickle fork" tools and there were three sizes, which size to get? And can this same tool be used to pop the tie rod end joints loose? Or do i need a puller? $$$ are a big issue....
2. Do i jack up the wheels under the control arm, or under the frame? Do i need to release pressure somewhere so the ball joints don't pop out and maim or kill me?
3. Is the hub nut 35 or 36mm? I've seen both posted on here? I need to buy this socket and don't want to get the wrong one.
4. When i buy new tie rod ends, should i also buy the sleeve that they screw into?

I plan on getting parts this coming Sat. and doing the job Sun. and possibly Mon. if need be. If anyone would care to follow my post, even though i'm getting a manual, i'm sure i will need more help. Any answers would be MOST appreciated!!!!! I need to get this Jimmy on the road to drive to work.

[goser]

Hope I can answer a few of these for you;

1. The ball joints take a large pickle fork; something like a 15/16" opening, but would probably be too large for the tie rods. Take a look at the stud diameter of each and match to your fork.

2. Support the frame for wheel removal, etc., but before disconnecting the ball joint put a jack under the control arm to take the pressure from the torsion bar...then you can slowly lower the jack and control arm so it doesn't pop free when you remove the ball joint and take out your knees.

3. 36mm deep socket. Check your local surplus store for this and the pickle fork. Or if money is really tight borrow them from autozone or partsource.

4. It kinda scares me how little actually controlls your wheels, so yeah I'd replace it all. It's probably all rusted and a pain to dissasemble anyway. Match the length of the new one to the old one to get the alignment close, but you'll need to get one done anyway

Good luck!

[saturnthegiant]

Thanks a bunch! That helps a lot! 'Preciate it!

[85sskid]

Just did my ball joints and just as a heads up, in case you haven't done them, while everything is dissasembled, chech your CV axles, mine had a broken rubber boot and had slowly leaked all of the grease out. I bought a new one and threw it in there with no extra labor anyway since I almost had it off anyway.

[Airjer_]

Jack the vehicle under the control arm to start. This will take the load off or the control arms.

No need for a pickle fork. Wack the knuckle where the joints pass through until they pop. That'll save you a couple of bucks.

The sleeves aren't necessary but may be needed

If the ball joints have never been done the hardest part will be getting the rivets out.

[jdmccright]

If you happen to go with an Energy Suspension bushing set, the lower control arm bushings are more of a pain than the uppers because you have to press out the lower bushings from the arm whereas you can just heat up the upper ones and remove the rubber center...the new polyurethane uppers reuse the outer bushing sleeves. However, I do recall having to add a few large washers to the ends to keep the new bushings in...that silicone assembly grease makes everything slippery and the inner sleeve is slightly smaller. I think I had to order the washers from McMaster-Carr to get the correct thickness and inner hole diameter. I think I can look it up and post back, but this was 3+ years ago. Took some good pics of the changeout too if interested.

Finally, for the ball joints and steering links, I used a pitman arm puller. Think they cost $15-$20 at Autozone. I tried the pickle fork method first but just ended up taking it back because it was cheap metal.

Hope this helps!

[goser]

Originally Posted by Airjer_

If the ball joints have never been done the hardest part will be getting the rivets out.

+1 Do yourself a favour if you have to drill out the rivets and go buy the $20 diamond/titanium/plutonium drill bits.

[saturnthegiant]

The job is done, fellas!!!! Went off without a hitch, except i think i need to bleed the brakes, since i replaced a leaky brake line on the rear drivers side, i have no brakes!!! The upside of doing jobs like this is, you get to buy TOOLS! I bought a pretty heavy duty pickle fork, it worked like a charm. I had a few chisels, but bought a big honkin' one thinking it would work best, but would you believe a smaller chisel worked much better? I had a buddy helping me the first day, which half of it was spent getting parts, and i had to order the tie rod ends, nobody had them in stock. So the first day went pretty slow, but the second day i worked alone and it went much better....not hard work, just time consuming.

Now i need to get the brakes lined out, and i need to replace the shocks, and get the front end aligned, but that will have to wait until another payday. THANKS, THANKS, THANKS so much for all your replies and help. You all helped a novice do something i thought i couldn't!

[laxman21]

Originally Posted by jdmccright

I think I can look it up and post back, but this was 3+ years ago. Took some good pics of the changeout too if interested.


Hope this helps!

Post pics!