Bad EGR??

[boilrman]

You regulars may remember my posts earlier concerning my brother in laws 99 express van http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...d.php?t=950973

We have since replaced the trans in it and took it for its maiden voyage the other day in town. It died twice, not starting the second time, but we found it was not getting spark and replaced ignition module.

We then took it on a 20 mile trip up the road. All ran well until returning home when he said it wanted to stall when coming up to a stoplight. He put the trans in N and revved the engine, back into D and continued. When he got to a stop sign close to home, it stalled and did not want to restart. He got it going, made it home and while parked revved it several times and it idled poorly and died a couple times that way.

The vehicle has been off the road for approx 3 yrs. Is it possible the EGR could be sticking causing the stalling?

[MT-2500]

Originally Posted by boilrman

You regulars may remember my posts earlier concerning my brother in laws 99 express van http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...d.php?t=950973

We have since replaced the trans in it and took it for its maiden voyage the other day in town. It died twice, not starting the second time, but we found it was not getting spark and replaced ignition module.

We then took it on a 20 mile trip up the road. All ran well until returning home when he said it wanted to stall when coming up to a stoplight. He put the trans in N and revved the engine, back into D and continued. When he got to a stop sign close to home, it stalled and did not want to restart. He got it going, made it home and while parked revved it several times and it idled poorly and died a couple times that way.

The vehicle has been off the road for approx 3 yrs. Is it possible the EGR could be sticking causing the stalling?

To check out egr valve you will need a engine capable scanner.
Any check engine lights on?
Post back any engine codes.

If it has been setting 3 years it could have bad gas in it.
Get some fresh new gas in it.

[boilrman]

had it scanned - no codes. It only has 1/4 tank in it, half of that has been put in in the last week. Also changed fuel filter before taking our short test run trip.

Today we started it up and after putting van in drive it died. Restarted it and went to AZ for a scan. no codes. Returned home and it felt as if van wanted to die while under slight acceleration. After parking vehicle, revved it up and was able to get van to die on two occasions.

[MT-2500]

Bad EGR valve will usually set code.

Have you checked it for carbon balls or carbon build up?
Or tryed unplugging it?

When it dies check for lose of fuel pressure or spark.

What is fuel pressure readings?

[boilrman]

Originally Posted by MT-2500

Bad EGR valve will usually set code.

When it dies check for lose of fuel pressure or spark.
What is fuel pressure readings?

Will check on these Thurs night.


Have you checked it for carbon balls or carbon build up?
Or tryed unplugging it?

Where and what does this involve?

[MT-2500]

Originally Posted by boilrman

Will check on these Thurs night.


Have you checked it for carbon balls or carbon build up?
Or tryed unplugging it?

Where and what does this involve?

The wire plug in is on top of EGR valve.
When it is ideling good unpluging will disable it and keep it from opening.
It is a test to see if the problem is EGR valve or other things.

To check for carbon or carbon ball sticking it open you will have to remove EGR valve and have a look at it.
Let us know how it goes.
And if you have any codes.
Good Luck

[boilrman]

I did have the EGR off before we took it to AZ for a code check, it was clean and moved freely.

I got 62 psi with the key in the on position which holds for about 3-4 seconds and then it drops to 55psi. I know that is low, but is the pump at fault or the pressure regulator? If it is the regulator, where is it located?

Thanks

Chad

[MT-2500]

Originally Posted by boilrman

I did have the EGR off before we took it to AZ for a code check, it was clean and moved freely.

I got 62 psi with the key in the on position which holds for about 3-4 seconds and then it drops to 55psi. I know that is low, but is the pump at fault or the pressure regulator? If it is the regulator, where is it located?

Thanks

Chad

Any codes from code check?

62 is low or boder line on no start cold.
Specs are 60/66 lbs.

You should see around 65 key on or engine cranking.
Run a full pressure test on fuel pump and hook a gauge up and drive it on the road and watch presure after good and hot and when it is acting up.

The only true test on a fuel pump is to check the direct fuel pressure from fuel pump.
A quick test is to block off the return line and see if fuel pressure comes up to 75-85 lbs.
But do not run the pump at full pressure very long.
Also when testing fuel pump and pressure you need to tape a gauge to outside windshield or outside mirror and drive it on the road for 20 -30 minutes
until the pump gets has run a while to check for a pump fading out after hot.

Hard to start cold or hot and fuel pressure testing guide lines.
Check cold start fuel pressure.
Check engine running fuel pressure.
Check engine running on the road fuel pressure.
Then shut it off and watch for fast leak down.
Pinch off at rubber part or block off return line and check full pressure.
If pump has full pressure with return line blocked and low pressure without it blocked most usually the fuel pressure regulator is leaking or not holding pressure.
Later V6 and V8 gm engines should have 60-66 fuel pressure.
Cold start should be 64-65 lbs of pressure.
If you do not have full fuel pressure on a cold start the injectors will not squirt fuel.
Do not leave home without it.
Engine running should be 60-66 lbs pressure depending on engine load.
Full pressure with return pinched off should be 75-85 or more.
And if it has a fast leak down after shut off you have a leak in system.
Post back fuel pressure readings.

[boilrman]

when cold it ran for about 3 minutes earlier this afternoon. When I did it and checked pressure, it was cold again and only ran about 30 seconds before dying

[MT-2500]

Originally Posted by boilrman

when cold it ran for about 3 minutes earlier this afternoon. When I did it and checked pressure, it was cold again and only ran about 30 seconds before dying

What was fuel pressure reading?

[boilrman]

Originally Posted by MT-2500

What was fuel pressure reading?

I got 62psi when pump initially cycled and 55psi after pump shut down. I started the van and it ran approx 55-56psi. It ran about 30-60 seconds and then the engine died.


I split the return line at the joint and plugged it and got 80psi when the pump initially cycled.

[MT-2500]

Originally Posted by boilrman

I got 62psi when pump initially cycled and 55psi after pump shut down. I started the van and it ran approx 55-56psi. It ran about 30-60 seconds and then the engine died.


I split the return line at the joint and plugged it and got 80psi when the pump initially cycled.

What was fuel pressure when it died?
55/56 Pressure is low.
Pressure regulator may be bad.
Will it start and run on carb cleaner?

Is it losing spark when it quits?

[boilrman]

Originally Posted by MT-2500

What was fuel pressure when it died?
55/56 Pressure is low.
Pressure regulator may be bad.
Will it start and run on carb cleaner?
Is it losing spark when it quits?

What was fuel pressure when it died? 55-56


Will it start and run on carb cleaner? havent tried, as van will restart with a few seconds of cranking.

I have now learned that the motor oil smelled of fuel when it was pulled for a rebuild.

The oil seems a bit thin and I noticed a small leak at the back of the intake today and was curious what it was from. Based on previous questions and results(listed below) I am leaning on the regulator for the cause of the issue.

Check cold start fuel pressure. 62 w/pump running / 55-56 when stopped
Check engine running fuel pressure. 55-56
Check engine running on the road fuel pressure. did not drive, as it dies
Then shut it off and watch for fast leak down. no leak down of pressure noted
Block off return line and check full pressure. 80
If pump has full pressure with return line blocked and low pressure without it blocked most usually the fuel pressure regulator is leaking or not holding pressure. reason i am blaming regulator



Later V6 and V8 gm engines should have 60-66 fuel pressure.
Cold start should be 64-65 lbs of pressure.
If you do not have full fuel pressure on a cold start the injectors will not squirt fuel.
Do not leave home without it.
Engine running should be 60-66 lbs pressure depending on engine load.

All items above provide reasons not to test drive/ pressure at 55-56

Full pressure with return pinched off should be 75-85 or more. this is good - I have 80
And if it has a fast leak down after shut off you have a leak in system. no leak down detected


We are going to replace the regulator tomorrow and I will post the results.

[MT-2500]

Originally Posted by boilrman

What was fuel pressure when it died? 55-56


Will it start and run on carb cleaner? havent tried, as van will restart with a few seconds of cranking.

I have now learned that the motor oil smelled of fuel when it was pulled for a rebuild.

The oil seems a bit thin and I noticed a small leak at the back of the intake today and was curious what it was from. Based on previous questions and results(listed below) I am leaning on the regulator for the cause of the issue.

Check cold start fuel pressure. 62 w/pump running / 55-56 when stopped
Check engine running fuel pressure. 55-56
Check engine running on the road fuel pressure. did not drive, as it dies
Then shut it off and watch for fast leak down. no leak down of pressure noted
Block off return line and check full pressure. 80
If pump has full pressure with return line blocked and low pressure without it blocked most usually the fuel pressure regulator is leaking or not holding pressure. reason i am blaming regulator



Later V6 and V8 gm engines should have 60-66 fuel pressure.
Cold start should be 64-65 lbs of pressure.
If you do not have full fuel pressure on a cold start the injectors will not squirt fuel.
Do not leave home without it.
Engine running should be 60-66 lbs pressure depending on engine load.

All items above provide reasons not to test drive/ pressure at 55-56

Full pressure with return pinched off should be 75-85 or more. this is good - I have 80
And if it has a fast leak down after shut off you have a leak in system. no leak down detected


We are going to replace the regulator tomorrow and I will post the results.

Good Luck

[MT-2500]

Is the start and run a start and run for 2 seconds only?