95 Starts and Dies

[95transprt]

Hello,
My first post and sorry its a little long. I cant figure this one out, all I have is a digital multi-meter from Autozone. My 1995 Transpont 3.8L starts and then dies within 2-3 seconds. If I try to restart from "RUN" it will not restart, I have the return the key all the way back "LOCK" and then it will restart for a few seconds.
Here is a list of things that have already been replaced:
Spark Plugs
Ignition Modual ( It is on its 3rd Autozone modual)
ECM/PCM Box without MEM-CAL ( original MEM-CAL transferred over)
Multiple Vacuum lines
Fuel Pump Relay
Fuel Pump Pressure is a constant 45psi

The engine starts and stalls like someone just turned off the key. I have a test plug on a spark plug wire and can watch the spark quit just as the engine dies. It has no spark if I try to restart from "RUN" on key. To get spark again I have to pull key all the way back to lock position and then crank over again. It runs a couple seconds and dies again. That is all I can get it to do.

I can hear the fuel pump turn on when I cycle the key from lock to Run but not from run to crank. I had a pressure gauge on it and it was a steady 45psi. My worthless Chevy Dealer said it was the computer and raped me $700 for the PCM and it fixed nothing. I towed the car home.

The dealer also said there was a DTC PO341 and said it could be a bad cam sensor or crank sensor and wanted another $4-$500 for those two. WHAT DO I CHECK FROM HERE.

[LMP]

It seems like it runs a few seconds on the "prime" fuel then lacks injector trig. When mine failed a few years ago, it would act nearly like that....that is, it would run for less than a second each time. The problem was loss of 3x crank signal (needed to trig injectors on start) ..it comes from the crank sensor but this signal runs through the ignition module and in my case this module was the culprit. Yes, there is a possibility the crank sensor is at fault....but I have a scope to test signals, I never work blind, so I cannot categorically say this is your problem. HOwever, I have often suggested the crank sensor and the ignition module at that age, are just waiting to let you go in the middle of nowhere and have suggested to have one as a spare ...better yet, change the crank sensor to be sure and keep the other as a spare....just in case. (I read you have changed the ignition module).
The sensor is around 69$ new on ebay ...but you must rent a puller and come with a lot of patience to extract the engine balancer...and just removing the balancer bolt needs a hefty impact socket and torque bar....a nice shot from a fellow forum member is to brace the torque bar steady somewhere with the socket in place on the center bolt.....and then kick the starter for half a second.....
....ok..these were my 2 cents....

[95transprt]

So the 3x crank sensor would cause the ignition modual to shut down and cause the injectors to not fire? I'll check the 3x with the procedure outlined in my Clymer manual.

What about the DTC PO341? My Clymer says it references the cam sensor circuit, from what I've read in the repair manual the cam sensor is the reference for the injector pulses. It also states that in the event of a cam sensor failure the ECM will default to a programmed fuel trim setting. It looks like the cam sensor also runs through the ignition modual.

What I need is a procedure the figure out what sensor is bad. It is WAY to hot here to do the crank sensor myself. I have absoutly no pateniance in this 108*-110* heat. If the cam sensor is bad I can probably handle that.

[LMP]

www.avigex.ca/xport/ignition3800.jpg
and what had happened to mine
www.avigex.ca/xport/IgnitionModule.jpg

[95transprt]

The 3X sensor is showing a constant 5v so it is dead. I think I might give the crank sensor a shot. My Clymer manual says I need a special tool to check the balancer interrupter ring and adjust the sensor.

What "special" tool is needed for installation if any? Is there a keyway on the crank to prevent misalignment?

Thank you big time for the help so far.