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  #1  
Old 04-03-2003, 01:02 PM
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Should I buy this stuff?

Okay... I've got a chunk of money, and I'm making a list of things to buy for my car/engine, but there are a few items I have a question about...

Mainly a fuel rail... Do I need a fuel rail? Or would I only need it if I went turbo or NOS? It's just going to be a D16Y8 N/A engine, and possibly built internals (crankshaft, pistons, rods, cams, etc.)

What about an aftermarket Fuel Pressure Regulator? Would it really matter or be worthwhile?

What about injectors? Should I just use the OEM ones?

What kind of internals should I get for crankshaft, pistons, rods, cams... I'm not planning to raise or lower the compression at all (or should I?), just looking to replace the internals with high quality lightweight parts...

Just FYI, other things on the list are:
Corbeau Seats (probably order them today)
3 point harnesses
Stereo stuff (2 amps, seperates, and head-unit)
Throttle body (need a replacement because the TPS sensor busted on mine)
Lightweight Pulleys
Injectors
Lightened Flywheel
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Old 04-03-2003, 01:07 PM
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Its always a good idea to upgrade ur fuel especially if ur building performance. If you gonna N/A just go high compression.
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Old 04-03-2003, 01:14 PM
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from the mouths of 10 second honda drag racers:

upgrading the fuel rail isnt necessary unless you're pushing over 300 horsepower or so. The same goes for the injectors. You needent upgrade them unless you are going forced induction. The same goes for the iginition system. The factory honda ignition will support up to 350horsepower or so.

If you want power, get a stage 2 or 3 cam, upgraded valve train, thinner head gasket, bigger bore throttle body, and possibly a slightly ported and Poilished head. to put that power to the ground better, get a lightened flywheel (not too light, only shave a couple pounds off the stock one, having too light of a flywheel will make you lose power when you shift or go up hills, you need some rotational mass to keep the engine going), light weight wheels, and an upgraded clutch.

I've also heard that using light weight pulleys will throw off the crankshaft balance a slight bit, leading to your number 1 crank bearing to go to shit.

Again, this is just what i have heard from honda people who run 10 seconds with d series engines.
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Old 04-03-2003, 02:25 PM
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Thanks for the info....

So I shouldn't bother with the internals like the crankshaft/pistons, etc?

And what/where to get upgraded valvetrain?
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Old 04-03-2003, 03:35 PM
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hey what is N/A?
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Old 04-03-2003, 03:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Jay eS Iye
hey what is N/A?
naturally aspirated. basicly no forced induction (supercharger, turbo, ).
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Old 04-03-2003, 04:05 PM
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The stock fuel system is better than what most people think, if anything in the fuel department get a FPR (fuel pressure regulator) and than i would just build-up the valvetrain. The bottom ends are pretty strong, but the valves will float at like 7000-72000 RPM, no point in having an upgraded valvetrain though if you can't rev high enough to use it so than you need a new ECU or have one chipped. So many ways to look at this.
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Old 04-03-2003, 04:31 PM
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I went N/A in the d series im building, i got 10.5:1 pistons, shot peened the stock rods, ARP rod bolts, polished the crank and a aluminum crank pulley for internals.....im getting a adj. FPR and allready have a fuel rail....simply because im building the motor now and have the time to replace anything i want before i swap it in....


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