69 mustang cam upgrade?

[Jason L. Jones]

I was wondering if anyone has any suggestions on the possibility of switching out a stock cam in a 302 (block is an '84 casting) with an RV cam with roller lifters? I need to replace the cam anyway but think that going from flat tappets to rollers would be a easy upgrade.

[MrPbody]

Jason,

Sorry it took too long to reply. I don't usually "hang around" the Ford boards, but I look in from time to time. This is one I can help with.

The '84 block needs to use "retro-fit" lifters to "convert" it to rollers. We've seen a TON of problems with the retro-fits. They are nowhere NEAR as good as the factory hydraulic rollers.

For this reason, we recommend either solid flat tappets or solid rollers. If your budget can stand hydraulic rollers, you'll REALLY like solid rollers. They're a bit less expensive, but offer many advantages. Using rollers on an "RV" cam in an engine like this,. however, may not be the most financially "prudent" method. The rollers give a significant advantage in performance, particularly in higher revving engines. Idle quality IS improved, though. And Comp and Crower both sell a lifter with "positive oiling" to the wheels.

Understand, too, you cannot use roller lifters on a cam designed for flat tappets. The price of a roller cam is significantly higher than any flat tappet.

We've been using Comp's XE grinds in the little Fords with great results. The flat tappet solids seem to have the most "return on investment". We have one customer with a drivere, '71 Mustang, 302 (.030 over), stock heads, runs 13.0s, 3.25 gears and a stock converter. The thing will shred the tires. Not bad for a little motor in a big car.

If you would describe your driving habits and performance desires, we can recommend a specific grind.

Jim

[Jason L. Jones]

Thanks for the reply! I have talked to a local machine shop recently about this and they suggested getting the roller cam, hydraulic tappets, and the spider brace to hold the tappets in line at the cost of about $800. I was hoping for something a little more economical that I could do myself in the garage. However, if I approach the shop with the information on exactly what I want, that's what they will give me.

Now, my driving habits with this particular car tend to be a commute to work on occassion with interstate travel. However I do like cruising on the weekends and evening and will admit to lighting up the tires and mashing the gas pedal sometimes. I do get a good acceleration but would like better. Like I stated before, the block is an '84 casting. It has been bored 0.030 over, stroked to a 331 with a forged crank and hypereutictic pistons. I am also running cast iron p-40 heads off of a late model 5.0. Right now the cam is stock with a 351 firing order (it also has an MSD multi-shock system with 40,000 v.).

[MrPbody]

Jason,

Installing the hydraulic rollers will require the "retro-fit" lifters, which we've seen too many problems with to recommend. The "spider" asembly is for the later blocks with the bolt provisions FOR the "spider". I suppose it could be fabricated...

Again, I would suggest the Comp flat tappet solid XE grind. XS274S is the "old standy", and has proven itself over and over.

Jim