'98 Jimmy no fuel pump sound...

[Schrade]

The motor just shut off while returning from the Advance / Zone, and restarted right away (no issues at all with this thing, 190k miles).

I got 2 miles further, and it shut off at about 30mph. I coasted into a parking spot , tried a few times, and realized I couldn't heat the pump when I pulled the trigger.

So, the pump needs butter (cause it's toast), or the power/ground failed.

Anybody know where the jumper connection is, to test power/ground?

[toddman67]

The pump wiring connections are on top of the pump itself. Check and make sure you have a good chassis ground. Sometimes a good rap on the tank will get her going, but it sounds like a new one is in line. Make sure you have power first.

[b1lk1]

I'd pull the tank down and check to see if there is power to the pump. If there is then you know what comes next. Just be sure to avoid any pump except hte AC Delco or Delphi as the cheap Airtex pumps fail fast.

[Schrade]

So this all started while I was puttin' headers on the vette - went to buy bolts for the header-cat connector, and that's when the Jimmy pump bailed on me.

So I got a ride back to the house, and had to put the OEM's back on the vette.

So a few trips today, church, Advance / Zone for some more stuff, and tonight, I'm gettin' back near the house, and the DIC lights up like a Christmas tree. Then the dash lights bail. As I pull into my driveway, she's off.

Looks like the vette alternator is toast. Hmm...

So we gotta' charge the battery fully tonight, head for AZ in the am (fortunately it's about 5/8mi from house), and buy an alternator, replace it, then shop for a pump, replace it, and maybe one day before 2011, we'll get back to the headers and the connector bolts.

Originally Posted by toddman67

The pump wiring connections are on top of the pump itself. Check and make sure you have a good chassis ground. Sometimes a good rap on the tank will get her going, but it sounds like a new one is in line. Make sure you have power first.

The guy at AZ said the 'smack the pump' trick - to un-seize the check valve, worked for him on a '99 Blazer.

[Schrade]

Originally Posted by b1lk1

I'd pull the tank down and check to see if there is power to the pump. If there is then you know what comes next. Just be sure to avoid any pump except hte AC Delco or Delphi as the cheap Airtex pumps fail fast.

You sure about Airtex? That seems to be the most common one... which means it's probably installed more than any other as aftermarket pump.

AND, in 5 years of car forums, I've seen probably 200 pumps replaced as a stab-in-the-dark 'fix', where the problem with the car was NOT the pump in the first place, and pressure wasn't even checked...

And no, I haven't checked mine yet, BUT, I will test the power leads before dropping the tank, since I don't hear it priming the fuel rails.

Is Airtex really that bad???

[b1lk1]

Of course I am suggesting to test it first. I would even just push the schrader valve with a small screw driver to see if there is any pressure being developed.

As for Airtex, do a quick search here about fuel pumps. 9 out of 10 of them fail within a year. These trucks demand perfect fuel pressures above 60PSI to even run so there is no room for error. All the top guys on this forum will all tell you the same, completely avoid Airtex for these trucks.

Same with trusting the old slam the tank with a hammer trick. Even if that works, then there is still something very wrong with the pump and it should be replaced.

I understand the Delco/Delphi pumps are much more expensive than the Airtex, but this is one sure instance of getting what you paid for.

[toddman67]

From what I've read, the airtex pumps are not the prefered choice. NAPA carries OEM pumps as well as thier own version for a little less. I have not heard of any negative post's on these. (NAPA)
I used an airtex pump on a diesel inline delivery situation and got about 6 months out of it before it failed.
I would see what the warranty is on these pumps. Doing the job once, is enough to convice me to spend a few more bucks.

My thoughts on rapping the tank were for test purposes only. If the pump starts working....it will fail again eventually.
The obvious thing to do here is test for power first.

[MT-2500]

Check the gray a fuel pump relay for power.

[djd99]

Originally Posted by cbec1999

You sure about Airtex? That seems to be the most common one... which means it's probably installed more than any other as aftermarket pump.

AND, in 5 years of car forums, I've seen probably 200 pumps replaced as a stab-in-the-dark 'fix', where the problem with the car was NOT the pump in the first place, and pressure wasn't even checked...

And no, I haven't checked mine yet, BUT, I will test the power leads before dropping the tank, since I don't hear it priming the fuel rails.

Is Airtex really that bad???

I will back up B1lk1 on airtexs pumps, They definitely are not as good as delphi's and that's the bottom line. There has been way too many peeps trying top save a dime only to find out these pump just don't last and has poor reliability issues. But do as you wish and if you do buy one of these inferior pumps well get a chance to say I told ya so.

[rpclearwater]

The problem Im having is fuel pump on 96 Bravada. I get no fuel to engine? I put alittle in the throttle opening and it runs for a few seconds. I looked and think I found the red test wire on the drivers side wheel well and put it to the positive side of battery. Nothing. I saw on here that always doesnt work so I looked for the gray wire from the oil sending unit. Couldnt find the oil sending unit? Would you know where it is? Then I tried the swapping around of relays in the glove box. That didnt work. Would you know what relay it is? Theres 3. Would you know what fuse it might be also? I have been on here for hours looking up posts and cant seem to find exactly what I need to know. I hate to spend 240.00 for something it might not be. Oh another thing I have a FULL tank of gas and was wondering whats the best way to get it out?? Well I hate to be a pain with these questions but if you could steer me in the right way I would appreciate it so much. Thanks Rick

[djd99]

Originally Posted by rpclearwater

The problem Im having is fuel pump on 96 Bravada. I get no fuel to engine? I put alittle in the throttle opening and it runs for a few seconds. I looked and think I found the red test wire on the drivers side wheel well and put it to the positive side of battery. Nothing. I saw on here that always doesnt work so I looked for the gray wire from the oil sending unit. Couldnt find the oil sending unit? Would you know where it is? Then I tried the swapping around of relays in the glove box. That didnt work. Would you know what relay it is? Theres 3. Would you know what fuse it might be also? I have been on here for hours looking up posts and cant seem to find exactly what I need to know. I hate to spend 240.00 for something it might not be. Oh another thing I have a FULL tank of gas and was wondering whats the best way to get it out?? Well I hate to be a pain with these questions but if you could steer me in the right way I would appreciate it so much. Thanks Rick

Welcome to the automotive forum, Please post your problem in a new thread as Peeps will focus on your particular problem. But first I would check and see if you have power at the pump. Then come back post a new thread stating your problem and we'll go from there. Make sure your post has truck,year,engine and what problem your having and what you have done so far. Wecome

[MT-2500]

It is best to start a New Thread on a new problem/your problem.

The relay on yours is behind glove box in relay center.
At relay.
Gray wire feeds fuel pump.
Orange wire from emcb fuse powers relay.

Oil pressure switch rear of engine near dist.

Orange wire is the power wire there and gray wires feeds power to pump.
Check for 12 volts on orange wir key on.
Check the gray wire for 12 volts key on engine start or fuel pump 2 second prime up.
Jumper the gray wire at relay or oil pressure switch with a 12 volt fused jumper and see if pump runs.

After getting power on gray wire and no pump run go to tank and ckeck for ground on both black wires and for 12 volts gray wire at fuel pump plug in.

If 12 volts on gray there and good grond on one/both blacks.
Your fuel pump is dead.

[MT-2500]

Originally Posted by cbec1999

You sure about Airtex? That seems to be the most common one... which means it's probably installed more than any other as aftermarket pump.

AND, in 5 years of car forums, I've seen probably 200 pumps replaced as a stab-in-the-dark 'fix', where the problem with the car was NOT the pump in the first place, and pressure wasn't even checked...

And no, I haven't checked mine yet, BUT, I will test the power leads before dropping the tank, since I don't hear it priming the fuel rails.

Is Airtex really that bad???

It is my opinion and professional experiance installing and testing them and getting no start cars and trucks that other people and repair shops have installed a airtex pump.

Yes and more than bad they are just pure junk. also and a big :sarcasm1:

I have yet to see one that will pass the full pressure test.
But send it back to Airtex company and they will swear nothing wrong with the pump.

And it is a sad situation that some parts places still sell them after knowing the high come back rate on them.

Carquest has dropped the airtex pumps after repeated comebacks on them and only sell Delphi fuel pumps.
But sad to say other aftermarket places still sell them.

[rpclearwater]

Sorry about posting thread here Im new and learning my around here. Do you know what relay it is in the glove box? Cant really see the wires? Theres 3 in there in a row. I have no pressure because the pump doesnt come on. Cant seem to find the oil sending unit by the distridutor. The ecmb fuse looks good.