1995 Lumina Electrical Nightmare...

[jsnieder]

It all started when my brake lights wouldn't work, after checking everything I knew to look for, I discovered that when I pull by turn signal lever slightly forward the brake lights would work. To fix the problem I simply propped the lever forward by mounting a pen cap to the cut out behind it. It pushes it forward enough to work without interfering with the other functions. Now get this, my spodometer went out and when I have my lights on the "dinger" goes off constantly. It's the same alarm that screams at me if the lights are on while the engine is off, however, it goes off while the car is running. Any ideas?!

[gw84]

Welcome to AF! By "spodometer" are you meaning speedometer, odometer, or something else??? Sounds like a bad ignition switch, but I'm no expert. The other guys could give you an answer with more certainty. If you want, try asking the question "how to disable dinger" that might be an easier solution. If by "spodometer" you meant speedometer, try tapping on the instrument cluster, mine sometimes stops working, but with a tap it works again. If that doesn't work, you might need a whole new speedometer. P.S. the guys on here prefer that you give year, make, model, and engine size...just for reference.

[jsnieder]

Yup, speedometer. Should of ran spellcheck. Anyways, thanks for the tips. Disconnecting the dinger was my next step. I just assume fix it but the repair might not be worth the trouble. I am curious though if all the problems are related somehow, they all happened at the same time. Is it possible that their is a control box of some type that they are all routed through? Also do you know of a site to download electrical diagrams for free?

[gw84]

not sure about that. I think your best bet would be to send a Private Message to Richtazz, Maxwedge, or Jeffcoslacker...they've helped me a lot on here. If you need any help private messaging don't hesitate to ask!

[rhandwor]

I would start by removing your shim. You have a lot of wires going through this unit on the column. If your key is on the column a rod runs about 12 to 18 inches down to the ignition switch. You will have to remove the steering wheel and lock plate to replace the switch which is apparently bad or you wouldn't need a shim. To do this you need a steering wheel puller and a lock plate remover you can rent these at auto zone. I would use delco parts or at least echlin or standard. Normally their is a speed control censor for the speedmeter around the transmission tail shaft. I think you are going across two wires with the shim causing your problem. In other words you are in the center of two contacts.
Remove the shim and fix or go to a shop for repairs. The switch on the column is definately bad or you wouldn't need a shim.
The ignition switch I would check voltage on it. To go farther you will need a wiring diagram.

[richtazz]

your multifunction switch in the column is bad. They are a very common problem on these cars, and cause the symptoms you describe when they start to fail.

[dnbrice]

I agree that it is the multifunction switch. I had the exact same problem with the exact same symptoms as described.

If you are a DIY, you will need special tools to remove it.

[Cameronscar]

My sons car has the same problem with the brake lights/switch. I did a recall check for this car and there is one for the wiper/signal check. Might check into it.

[Airjer_]

The brake lights not working is probably the result of the turn signal switch (This vehicle does not have a multi-function style switch) that has failed. They use the same bulb for the turn signal and the brake light. The switch will redirect power from the flasher and the brake switch depending on which position the switch is in. If the brake part of the circuit has failed than the left and right brake lights will no longer work but the center/third/highmount brake light will continue to work because its circuit bypasses the turn signal switch.