grinding

[ginas930]

ok guys I need some help here I tried looking for a similiar thread but found nothing or maybe I overlooked it but heres my problem.
I am hearing grinding from the back I am almost positive its not the sound of the brake pads. I hear the sound while I first put my foot on the pedal and when I come to a stop as I drive I am not hearing the grinding, but anthong under 20 mph and under until stop I do. any suggestions?? please!!!!

[old_master]

Year, make, model, drum or disc brakes in the rear?

[ginas930]

it's a 2000 chevy blazer 4wd....I wanna guess that there disc brakes but I am not sure.

[b1lk1]

IF you haven't pulled the tires off for a visual inspection then there is no way you can say it is not the brake pads. Pull the tires off and have a look and report back what you see.

[old_master]

Your vehicle has 4 wheel ABS disc brakes. As mentioned, pull the wheels and inspect the brakes. If there is rust on the surface of the rotor(s), it's a good indication that either the hardware is seized or a caliper piston is seized. If there is grinding, the pads are worn out. When servicing the rear disc brakes, always replace the caliper as a complete "loaded" assembly. It includes the caliper, the mounting bracket, pads, and all of the necessary mounting hardware. Line lock each caliper at its flex hose to prevent fluid loss and the possibility of the ABS unit injesting air. (If the master cylinder runs dry, you MUST use an ABS capable scan tool to bleed the system.) Replace the caliper and bleed the rears. If you don't replace the entire caliper and bracket assembly, expect problems in the near future. You've been warned

[b1lk1]

Originally Posted by old_master

Your vehicle has 4 wheel ABS disc brakes. As mentioned, pull the wheels and inspect the brakes. If there is rust on the surface of the rotor(s), it's a good indication that either the hardware is seized or a caliper piston is seized. If there is grinding, the pads are worn out. When servicing the rear disc brakes, always replace the caliper as a complete "loaded" assembly. It includes the caliper, the mounting bracket, pads, and all of the necessary mounting hardware. Line lock each caliper at its flex hose to prevent fluid loss and the possibility of the ABS unit injesting air. (If the master cylinder runs dry, you MUST use an ABS capable scan tool to bleed the system.) Replace the caliper and bleed the rears. If you don't replace the entire caliper and bracket assembly, expect problems in the near future. You've been warned

Spot on perfect advice. I chose the difficult route of R&Ring my rear brakes myself and it took me nearly 4 hours to get everything working properly. Would have been easier to just replace them....

Anyhow, I pull my rear brakes apart every oil change or so to clean and relube so that everything moves the way it should. These rear disk setups require ALOT of preventative maintenance to work properly. (So do these trucks, LOL!)

[djd99]

I see nobody mentioned this when you do your brake job make sure you buy a new caliper bolt kit, there 6 bucks each at autozone and good insurance that your calipers slide like there suppose to, oh and make sure there greased well.

[old_master]

Originally Posted by djd99

I see nobody mentioned this when you do your brake job make sure you buy a new caliper bolt kit, there 6 bucks each at autozone and good insurance that your calipers slide like there suppose to, oh and make sure there greased well.

All that stuff comes with the loaded complete caliper assembly. Take it out of the box, bolt it on, bleed it...DONE.