96 Tahoe won't start after brake line replacment.

[starsailor]

I have a won't start condition that's driving me crazy!

This all started with a ruptured rear hard brake line. The long steel line that runs down the driver's side frame rail ruptured on me a while back. After a lot of grunting and skinned knuckles I got a new line in from the union by the driver's foot well all the way back along the frame rail behind the gas tank to the coupling to the flex line that goes to the rear end. Get that all bled out and when I go to test drive it the peddle goes to the floor again before I get out of the driveway. Look around for the leak and find the hard line to the right front just blew on the cross member just under the front of the engine. Get new tube for that and bend the 17 different bends (Hint to anyone else doing this: Use 2 60" lines and add a union in the middle along the cross member and both newly bent lines will go in a lot easier than one big one.). Install that and bleed that all out. Peddle feels pretty good now with a full bleed all new brake fluid except for left front.

Well, now I go to start it for a test drive and it won't start or even kick over. It was running just 2 days ago when the front line blew. I did have to unplug one electrical connector on the side of the right front frame rail (2 wire green/brown) to get the old line out and I had to unbolt the airbag sensor in the left front wheel well to get some wire line slack to get that side of the old line out. All is back the way it was. Battery is fine, but I ran a trickle charge on it for 8 hours just to be sure. I did set the alarm off 2-3 times while bleeding and pumping the new fluid thru, but it seems to be working OK. All the gauge check lights work fine. When I turn the key all I get is a relay click. No starter solinoid and no turn over.

Any idea what may be wrong here?

[roadrunner2]

Loose battery cable connection? Perhaps at the starter end? Did you unintentionally break any grounds?

[starsailor]

roadrunner2:

Already removed and reconnected battery cables at the battery - not it. Will check at the starter and look for loose grounds. I didn't see any grounds in the area, only wires wrapped in plastic wireloom. Only place on the left front hardline route that's not readily visible is under the evap canister. Anything particular under there?

[maxwedge]

Have 12v at the starter solenoid in the crank position?

[777stickman]

An easy check of the battery and cables is this: Turn the headlights on "bright". Try cranking the motor. If the headlights go out it is most likely a battery or cable problem. If they dim a bit it's most likely a starter problem or power to the starter.

The repairs you made may, or, may not have caused this. Starters can go south at any time without any warning.

Also what alarm are you talking about that was set off 2-3 times while you were bleeding the brakes??

Good luck.

[roadrunner2]

Originally Posted by starsailor

roadrunner2:

Already removed and reconnected battery cables at the battery - not it. Will check at the starter and look for loose grounds. I didn't see any grounds in the area, only wires wrapped in plastic wireloom. Only place on the left front hardline route that's not readily visible is under the evap canister. Anything particular under there?

Nope. At least nothing I'm aware of.

I'm no tech, but the only thing I can think of doing is run a complete ignition system test all the way from the key to the starter for a continuous 12V flow.

This is just a WAG, but there may be an interruption of a 12V flow between the relay box and the starter.

Have you pulled the relay and sprayed electrical contact cleaner in the contacts? Or perhaps replaced the relay with a new one?

Your truck IS a '96 and can have (as you no doubt know) corroded connections.

Yeh, I know, not want you wanted to hear eh?

With luck, some tech may happen along to help.

[j cAT]

you have probably repaired the start problem by now so I'll just comment on the brake line question..

when ever the brake lines rust out it is common practice to replace the lines in smaller sections...this adds to the cosat of repair but it makes for a better install and less time...

I flare my own tubing and place tubing junctions at a point where they can be seen and inspected and if need be bled....
when the line is replaced I bleed the line before fully tightening the caliper fitting...then bleed cal...