98 Grand Voyager, trans no power and slips when cold

[RobBing]

When my Grand Voyager is cold my transmission slips and has very little power. Once it's warmed I don't have the problem(it may slip here and there but not that much)

Trans was replaced 3 years ago. 98 with a 3.8 liter.

Thanks in advance for the help.

[Bear]

Every case like yours that I have come across was due to the wrong ATF. How long since fluid was changed and did you/they use ATF+4?

[RobBing]

Bear, I think it's been a little over a year since the transmission fluid was changed. It may be a little longer but the car is driven about 100 miles a month so I don't do as much maintanence as normal.

Went out to see what all I could find with the car today since it's warmer.

1. Goes in reverse with no problem
2. Drives in 1st no problem
3. Shifts from first and I lose power(ugh this is the same thing that happened when I had the trans replaced.

Error codes
P0700
P0500
P0732
P0731
P0736
P1782
P1784

I have no clue where to start. Hopefully my trans isn't shot.

[Bear]

I am not a tech but those codes do not look good, Fault code in the PCM,No speed sensor signal, incorrect gear ratios. Did you get the codes by key dance or did you have it scanned? Alos some transmission shops will scan your transmission computer for free (in hopes of selling you a repair) you may wish to look for one of those shops (I avoid AAMCO havng had a less than wonderful experience years ago with that comapny). Keep in touch.

[RobBing]

I had it read by a code reader from OReilys.

I was hoping maybe the sylnoid(spelling) was bad and that's what was causing it.

[tempfixit]

Originally Posted by RobBing

I had it read by a code reader from OReilys.

I was hoping maybe the sylnoid(spelling) was bad and that's what was causing it.

I agree with Bear that it could be the wrong ATF. For the cost of ATF+4 fluid, which is about $4.00 a quart times 10 quarts would be a relatively cheap fix.
What I would do is add some seafoam trans conditioner that you can get at a auto parts store, let the tranny warm up to normal operating temp and drive for a few miles than remove the old fluid by disconnecting the return line from either the tranny cooler in the radiator( which I believe is uaually the lower line) or on the tranny itself and hook a long enough hose so you can stick it in a clear container and run engine for a short amount of time, shut off, pour about same amount of new fluid in tranny. Again do the same watching for new fluid to be dicharged into clear container. Hook up the line to either radiator cooler or tranny again. Get close to proper level a possible and drive for several miles and recheck fluid level and add if need be.

This process will replace all the fluid in the tranny and troque converter.

I have done this on 2 voyagers with same symptoms with good success.

Hope this helps and good luck.

[Rawtorque]

The public TRNW section I can look at only has one fix entered, and it's only codes P0731 & P0736. this was due to the Low/rev accumulator cover snap ring came out.

The CVI's would be helpful at this point.

[Rawtorque]

An OBD-II list is here:
http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/

You can try new ATF+4 & a new filter, but it may not fix it.

[RobBing]

I'm going to attempt to change the trans fluid and filter this weekend. I'm a little nervous because I've never done it but hey at this point it can't hurt.

I'll keep you guys up to date and if you have any helpful hints please let me know.

[tempfixit]

Originally Posted by RobBing

I'm going to attempt to change the trans fluid and filter this weekend. I'm a little nervous because I've never done it but hey at this point it can't hurt.

I'll keep you guys up to date and if you have any helpful hints please let me know.

Before you start stop at grocery store and pickup the largest aluminuim turkey baking pan you can find. These work great for draining the fluid when removing transmission pan and eliminates a big mess.

Wrenches you'll need, I believe the bolt size is 12mm, extension (optional) and 3/8" drive rachet, gasket material scrapper.

Jack front end up and support with jack stands or use car ramps to get little more space to work with but can be done without raising vehicle.

Place drain pan under tranny,
Remove all bolts except for 2 or 3 in one upper corner of the tranny pan.
Using a flat putty knife or screwdriver lightly tap between tranny pan and tranny housing on the opposite corner of the remaining bolts, once it starts to drain give it some time to drain then create a larger opening for more fluid to drain until you feel it is empty enough for you to remove remainder of bolts and remove pan.

Once you have the pan removed look for any metal shaving's on bottom of pan and on the magnet on the pan. Feel free to take a picture of the pan and magnet before cleaning and post here and someone will let you know if they see anything that any telltale signs of possible problem.

Remove tranny filter and inspect for tears or being clogged with foreign material.

Clean tranny housing and pan of any gasket material.

Install new filter.

Some people use a RTV gasket material on the pan and others use cork or rubber gaskets. Most claim that you have less leaks usinbg the RTV gasket maker in the tube.

Install pan, putting all the bolts in and hand tighten, then using socket and 3/8 drive rachet tighten the bolts in 2 sequences.

Add 3 quarts of ATF+$ fluid,

Remove return line from tranny or radiator tranny cooler, adding some hose to make it long enough to pump fluid into a clear container. Start engine and watch clear container until you have approx. 3 to 4 more quarts removed then shut off engine and add same amount of fluid that is in the clear container, repeating this again. You will use 10 to 12 quarts total with removing the pan and the procedure I explained but you will have removed all the old fluid from torque converter and what ever was in the tranny body.

Hook up return line let tranny get to operating temp checking the fluid level. Drive for a few miles and recheck and fill to correct fluid level.

Hope this helps and hope it does the trick

[RobBing]

Tempfixit, I'm good with everything about changing the fluid but I'm not sure about the return line. I'm following the steps in the book(first sticky post in this forum where you can go to the Cinci library and get auto books) but I'm not sure where the return line is and I don't want to make any mistakes. do you by chance have a pic of it?

[tempfixit]

Sorry I don't at this time but read this it should help:

http://www.allpar.com/eek/atf.html

This says that the return line is the lower line on the radiator tranny cooler.
I would follow that line to the tranny and it should be the one closest to the engine just below the solenoid pack electrical plug.

[RobBing]

Well, I'm a failure. LOL I can't even get the trans pan off to change the fluid. I decided to spend my day yesterday doing my first trans fluid change. I don't know how long I spent trying to get the pan off but it was a long while and it was with no success. It is so tight I can't get anything in between to help pry it loose.

I think I may throw in the towel and take it to someone and let them change it. It hurts me to say that but if I can't even get the pan un stuck then maybe I shouldn't be messing with it.

[Bear]

Do not despair, all is not lost. Go to Autozone website and under repair info look at general maintenance and transaxle fluid and filter data. Good text and pictures of the how to on fluid and filter change. I have done my '96 a couple of times and I did not find it that bad (a bit messy). keep in touch we are here for you, well at least virtually.

[RobBing]

Woo hoo, just got the pan off. I had to work my way around it to find a place to stick a puddy knife in but I found it. Smooth sailing from here.

I will say I have no idea where the return line is. I really want to change out all of the trans fluid but I'm not willing to take a chance and I've found no pics of which is the exact line.