93 E-150 302V-8 Starts then stalls out

[familyfarm]

Help I have a 93 E-150 Van with a 302 V-8. The engine was installed 14 months ago. It is a Ford Factory Rebuilt. I had new injectors, new plugs, new wires, new EGR valve, new Purge Valve, new cap and rotor(replaced again recently) new Fuel Pressure Regulator, new MAP sensor, new Air, Gas, oil filters, new water pump.
It was running fine no problems. two days ago after the van sat for three days I started it up and headed home, about a 75-80 mile trip. First after about 15 minutes the Check Engine light came on, and after another minute or so it started to bog down when I excellerated. Each time I tried to push hard it would not respond, it felt like a fuel problem. I replaced the fuel filter the next day and checked for any vacuum and fuel leaks, everything seemed fine. I took it out for a hard road test, it responded fine excellerated fine plenty of power and no hesitation. It was running and idleing fine.
I went to start it on the next day and it started then died out after about a minute, I restarted and the same thing, it will keep restarting then dieing out. Can it be the ignition module? or is it more likely fuel problem? Please some one help!!!

PS I no longer trust the dealer that installed the engine, as they kept diagnoising wrongly when the engine was first replaced. The kept telling me the cap and rotor was bad and the air pump was shot, when it was running irradically. it was actually the fuel pressure regulator that was no good.

[rhandwor]

Advance Auto and Auto Zone will scan your vehicle for codes free. Why don't you get this done and post the codes. Both of these places will check the module free if you take it in. Use a 12 volt test light and put it on the coil negative and try to start the vehicle if it don't blink the pickup in the distributor is bad. I use a hair dryer to warm up the module before testing.

[familyfarm]

Originally Posted by rhandwor

Advance Auto and Auto Zone will scan your vehicle for codes free. Why don't you get this done and post the codes. Both of these places will check the module free if you take it in. Use a 12 volt test light and put it on the coil negative and try to start the vehicle if it don't blink the pickup in the distributor is bad. I use a hair dryer to warm up the module before testing.

I did take it to auto zone and advanced auto. They told me they are unable to scan the codes on a 93 vehicle. Their scanner will do from 96 and up, as the earlier Fords did not have a long stored onboard. I can not drive it at this point it will not stay running for more then 30 seconds

[rhandwor]

Try having the module tested pull it and they will check free at the parts store. Use the test light and check for the light blinking at the coil negative.
Most non starts are in this area.

[familyfarm]

Originally Posted by rhandwor

Try having the module tested pull it and they will check free at the parts store. Use the test light and check for the light blinking at the coil negative.
Most non starts are in this area.

I pulled the module, unfortunately I could not find a single parts store or shop that could bench test it. No one seams to be able to even read the codes on my Van, they all tell me they can not on a 93 model year. The van will start and stall, but then will start right up again. The fuel pressure is fine (42psi) the range is 35 to 45 psi. When it is running and you accellerate there is a slight hesitation, the check engine light comes on, but once you start driving the light goes out. The light will come on each time you push it. if its not the module, what should be next in line to check? the air charge sensor, or the throttle position sensor?

[rhandwor]

Take a 12 volt test light and put it on the coil negative. Slide it along side the wire holder until it touches have somebody try to start the vehicle. The test light should blink. If it doesn't or its very dim replace the pickup in the distributor. If you don't have a test light unplug it and put an ohm meter in the two prongs. It should go from zero to one as its cranked.
You can buy cleaner for the Maf sensor. I would clean it. Try unplugging it and if it runs better replace it. Older Chevy's you could use the plastic end of a screw driver and tap it if it ran better replace it. Even my 1985 T-B 302 stored codes so I can't understand why they can't pull them for you. If repaired after 30 starts with no codes they went away. Look for a ground wire for the computer and check that's its good.

[familyfarm]

Originally Posted by rhandwor

Take a 12 volt test light and put it on the coil negative. Slide it along side the wire holder until it touches have somebody try to start the vehicle. The test light should blink. If it doesn't or its very dim replace the pickup in the distributor. If you don't have a test light unplug it and put an ohm meter in the two prongs. It should go from zero to one as its cranked.
You can buy cleaner for the Maf sensor. I would clean it. Try unplugging it and if it runs better replace it. Older Chevy's you could use the plastic end of a screw driver and tap it if it ran better replace it. Even my 1985 T-B 302 stored codes so I can't understand why they can't pull them for you. If repaired after 30 starts with no codes they went away. Look for a ground wire for the computer and check that's its good.

Thank You, I will give it a try today. I don't know why they can't pull the codes. autozone has in the past. They told me they no longer have a tester for pre-96 model years. They also do not have tester or specs for the components. I don't understand it myself. Autozone had a motto that the tested because they did not want to sell you the wrong part! I guess its more profitable to sell all the parts to you.
One other thing, I don't like the Ford dealer, as they have screwed me over all the way. They were very sloppy when they replaced the engine , they left parts hangging on the vehicle underside. They forgot to put in the new EGR valve and I had to bring it back. They forgot to fill the tranmission and after I picked up the van I was stuck on the road with a trans that would not go into gear. I asked about an anti-freeze drip and thought it was the new water pump, the assured me it was just loose clamps, WEL it was and still is the new water pump leaking, now its out of warrantee so I am stuck paying for and replaceing it myself. they did not put the heat sheilds back on the engine, I brought it back in for that, They also did not put the ignition wire seperators or routing clips, so the wires just hung on metal and exhuast, I did the best I could to solve that. " SO a BIG thumbs Down for "Magerino Ford in NJ"

[rhandwor]

When you ask for a test try asking the manager or an employee who has been their for a while. A lot of your problem is getting inexperienced help because they have a lot of turnover. Also check with O'Riley's as they are trying to be competative.

[familyfarm]

Originally Posted by rhandwor

When you ask for a test try asking the manager or an employee who has been their for a while. A lot of your problem is getting inexperienced help because they have a lot of turnover. Also check with O'Riley's as they are trying to be competative.

Thanks for the info, I checked unfortunetely there are no O'Riley's near me, or even in surrounding states. I did ask for the manager and also the one fellow has been at autozone for several years and always seemed to know his Stuff. He said autozone has dropped some of their services, or at least changed to newer equipment which seems to be geared toward newer cars.

[rockwood84]

i had a similar problem with mine it turned out to be the pick - up in the distributor getting hot.mine you would have to wait ten minutes or so then it would crank and run for 5-10 minutes then die like you cut the key off. the module could be getting hot also. years ago autozone checked a module on mine and said it was good but you drive it down the road and it would die and give it 5 minutes or so and it would crank up and run a little more and die again. i just spent the $15.00 for a new module and it was fixed . you might check e-bay out for a code reader for a '93 ford. i have one for an '88 but don't know if it will work on a '93.i think i gave $18.00 for it years ago.it will work on my '85 also.it plugs in the diagnostic plug on the fender and beeps the code.some of the models you have to pull the distributor to put the pick-up in the distributor.advanced auto used to check codes free. i would just get the phone book out and call around and see if any parts stores can read a '93. most have updated to newer models but some still have old readers.you just have to find them.as far as the shoddy dealer turn them in to the bbb in your state.