2000 Silverado exhaust manifold

[Mod_12]

Have a problem with 2 broken bolts/studs on the drivers side. One is the 1st one and 2nd is the rear one. front is broken flush with manifold and rear looks to be broken inside. Is this common? How would I go about removing these? There is hardly any room do get to the rear one? Anybody have any suggestions or ideas? It looks like I will be in for a long day once I start. Anyone have a set of shorty headers for sale since I will be taken stock ones off anyways. What hardware should I buy so this does not happen again. Thanks

[j cAT]

Originally Posted by Mod_12

Have a problem with 2 broken bolts/studs on the drivers side. One is the 1st one and 2nd is the rear one. front is broken flush with manifold and rear looks to be broken inside. Is this common? How would I go about removing these? There is hardly any room do get to the rear one? Anybody have any suggestions or ideas? It looks like I will be in for a long day once I start. Anyone have a set of shorty headers for sale since I will be taken stock ones off anyways. What hardware should I buy so this does not happen again. Thanks

these bolts are a problem.. I asked at the muffler customizing shop about this...as it was brought up on the forum...He showed me 2 trucks awaiting parts for this problem...one was a ford the other a ram...he stated the gm trucks also have this problem...he stated the it is caused by road salt/chemicals and small steel bolts going into the alumnum..


before removal of these bolts loosen these bolts with the engine hot...the al. hot may allow the steel bolts to rotate easier and then not break off...the replacement of oem hardware would be best...


I have shields installed on the inner fenders to keep the road salt off the engine...... so far bolts don't look too bad...2000 5.3L....


report back how you made out....

[ukrkoz]

you can still remove the manifold, right?
one that sticks out could, possibly, be worked out with visegrip.
also, i have seen suggestion to braze bolt heads to the broken bolt piece and then use regular socket to work it out.

[327chevy]

I have to go through the same thing as you with the broken manifold bolts and I asked a local independent shop what the easiest way to get at the rear bolt.From what the guy working there told me,and I've known this guy for most of my life so I have no reason to doubt his advise,if you remove the inner fender it will supposedly allow you the room to get the inner bolt out.I'm rather skeptical on this as I'm with you on here there is next to no room to work in next to the firewall but I guess the best way to find out if it will work or not is to try it and see.

[j cAT]

Originally Posted by 327chevy

I have to go through the same thing as you with the broken manifold bolts and I asked a local independent shop what the easiest way to get at the rear bolt.From what the guy working there told me,and I've known this guy for most of my life so I have no reason to doubt his advise,if you remove the inner fender it will supposedly allow you the room to get the inner bolt out.I'm rather skeptical on this as I'm with you on here there is next to no room to work in next to the firewall but I guess the best way to find out if it will work or not is to try it and see.

removal of these plastic inner fender walls are easy to remove..I did this back in 2000 so that ALL the fender metal was coated with a brush on rubberized coating...

after this is removed if necessary a 90deg drill...then using a reverse drill bit and the drill in reverse start drilling out the stud...before you get 1/4 in deep I bet the stud starts unscrewing...


I have removed studs like this before and these reverse bits are a time saver.....

[Mod_12]

ok, made my attempt at it. Got the front one out with no problem. With inner well removed, manifold removed I still barely get to the rear bolt with 90 drill and a short bit. I tried those new style craftsman easy our set and still couldn't get it to move. So said screw it put it all back together with new bolts and gaskets and have no leaks with not fixing the back bolt. Will see how long that will last.

[j cAT]

Originally Posted by Mod_12

ok, made my attempt at it. Got the front one out with no problem. With inner well removed, manifold removed I still barely get to the rear bolt with 90 drill and a short bit. I tried those new style craftsman easy our set and still couldn't get it to move. So said screw it put it all back together with new bolts and gaskets and have no leaks with not fixing the back bolt. Will see how long that will last.

these bolts are small with the reverse drill bit and the manifold in place when hot reverse drill ,,with a 1/8in bit use the manifold as a guide with a small piece of tubing in the hole to centre the bit correctly and reverse drill the stud out...then use the next larger size,,when you suddenly push in you know that you went all the way though the bolt...this is a good time to spray the hole with a penetrating spray w/straw into the drilled hole.

these studs have some lock tight so you will need heat.. torque is 18 ft lbs....
remember when you drill out the studs they will heat up from the bit cutting...

torque the middle bolts first the end bolts last...

BECAUSE THE STUD BROKE OFF IN THE HOLE DO NOT USE THE EASY OUT.....BADDD

[Mod_12]

when I have some cash I will take it to get it done right. Present time NO CASH. Dealer is $75 hr 3-4 labor may not sound like a lot but it is right now.