Help! with a brake Job...

[latestgood]

Hi,

I am trying to replace my front brake pads for Saturn SL2. However, the guide pin just will not budge... Can I spray PB blasting to the guide pin? Just to make sure, because the bolt is one the opposite side, I should be turning it towards clockwise ?

One last questions, is it okay to use cheap rotors and pads?

One more, I never bleeded my brake before, would this lead to brake failure?

Thank you,

Saturn SL2
Automatic
94,000 miles

[vgames33]

As long as you don't get blaster on the brake pads or rotors, you're fine. Don't let and petroleum oils contact the brake fluid, either.

I use the Wearever brand pads from Advance Auto. They make a little noise and dust, but seem to work just fine.

Bleeding your brakes generally doesn't cause failure, but just make sure you don't push the brake pedal down all the way. The master cylinder bore tends to accumulate rust at the end of the piston's normal travel. If you force it past this point, the rubber piston seals can be damaged.

[latestgood]

HELP!!!

The bolt/pin that's holding the caliper will not budge... Any tips on how to lossen the pin/bolt so that I can remove the caliper...

[vgames33]

Use the power of leverage and big hammers. Try smacking the bolt and the caliper where the threads are with a hammer. The vibrations will help loosen the rust. If you can get a longer wrench on the bolt, do it. Just don't strip it out. If you do happen to strip it (assuming its a standard GM caliper bolt), you can try a pair of vice grips.

[Scrapper]

if your planning on keeping the saturn 4 awhile i'd go with oe pads or you go cheap you'll see dust that makes rims black unless you want to clean them all the time. and for roters i'd get the best that is if your planning on keeping the car for awhile like i said acdelco is best for me life time warantey. good luck.

[Hungrycat7]

There is really no reason to ever buy cheap pads and rotors. If you save 25% on the cheapies but they only last half as long are you really saving any money in the end?

[partsmgn]

At my store I have three lines of brake componets Monroe, Jasper and Nascar (made by Raybestose)... The Monroe's carry a lifetime warranty...Jaspers however have a one year warranty however they are the same pad and are made in the same factory.... the only price difference is because of the warranty.... but if you use your breaks fairly heavy it doesn't matter what type of pads you use they are going to wear out premuturely.... moral of the post use your beaks moderently don't go flying up to the corner and then hammer on the breaks.... even then a "cheap" set of breaks will last a long time with no major porblems. (I learned this from years of driving)

[Scrapper]

i'd go for monroe withith lifetime warranty if you plan on keeping it same with rotorters or go with o. e. breaks and rotors. remeber lifetime if they mess up you get another ones free if they where out.but o.e. is the way to go they'll only where out fast on front break if you don't keep the rears ajusted right.

scrapper1

[jonathanwang]

l repair my car bymself,but most of the time l ask my friend to help me repair .He is working as car repair engineer. Mybe you can ask someone to work with you ,sometime one add one is bigger then tow.

[Scrapper]

Originally Posted by jonathanwang

l repair my car bymself,but most of the time l ask my friend to help me repair .He is working as car repair engineer. Mybe you can ask someone to work with you ,sometime one add one is bigger then tow.

what do you mean?

[87_Crx]

Hi, Help please
i want to know if u guys could help me figure out whats wrong with my manual 1987 honda crx car because i drive it for like half a mile then it feels like the brakes lock up because it forces itself to go then it comes to a point where it cant go. i tried to push it once so i put it on nuetral and it didnt want to move when i was pushing it and without the emergency brake. the wierd thing is that after a few hours it unlocks but if i drive it again it will happen again.

[shorod]

Since this is really unrelated to the thread, you should start a new thread with your question.

Have you jacked the car up to see if any of the wheels are binding and not spinning freely? Obviously the fronts will have resistance due to the transaxle, but I suspect happened is your parking brake is stuck. You may have released the lever, but the cable could be rusted inside the shield and not allowing the parking brake mechanism to fully release. After some driving, it finally vibrates itself free, but then seizes again the next time you use it.

-Rod

[shorod]

Since this is really unrelated to the thread, you should start a new thread with your question. Also, there is no benefit to posting the same question on more than one (non-related) thread.

Have you jacked the car up to see if any of the wheels are binding and not spinning freely? Obviously the fronts will have resistance due to the transaxle, but I suspect happened is your parking brake is stuck. You may have released the lever, but the cable could be rusted inside the shield and not allowing the parking brake mechanism to fully release. After some driving, it finally vibrates itself free, but then seizes again the next time you use it.

-Rod