Changing timing belt - crankshaft damper bolt

[RocketUSA]

I'll make a long story short, and say that I cannot get the crankshaft damper bolt off while changing the timing belt. I wedged a screwdriver into the flywheel to keep everything from moving, then proceeded to break a lifetime warranty socket extension trying to loosen the bolt. I sprayed the bolt with some WD-40 and then went to bed, but I'm going to have to get it off sometime...

Any ideas?

[rhandwor]

I use an impact wrench to take them off and some are very tight. Try P-B Blaster I think it works a lot better than WD 40. Use a 3/4 inch drive if you have a breaker bar. Some people buy a cheap one for this purpose. I even have had mechanics borrow my 3/4 inch drive impact. Otherwise use a 1/2 inch breaker bar and a mallet with a plastic head or wrap it with rags and hit it with a big hammer. Usually a few smacks will do the job. You can also tap the head with a hammer numerous small hits. The threads are corroded and this tends to loosen them. Also try quick hard pulls this sometimes this works better as it takes a little bit before something breaks. This is also less likely to break the bolt.

[AzTumbleweed]

Get the socket/breaker bar on the bolt then put a jack under the breaker bar and jack it up.

[RocketUSA]

I'm going to hit it with another shot of WD-40 this morning, then I'll be able to try it again in 10 hours. I used a cheater bar on it the first time, hence the broken extension, so I don't know that more force will help. I like the ideas of hitting it. I'll let you know.

[mightymoose_22]

A larger drive is all you need. You should be able to get it with 1/2 inch. An impact would be best though.... if you could fit it in there.

[RocketUSA]

I am going to be able to borrow an electric impact wrench with a 1/2 inch drive, I just don't have a 1/2 inch socket. I do have the 1/2-3/8 adapter, but I'm thinking maybe I'll just go buy the appropriate 1/2 18mm impact socket. What do you think about that?

I should be able to fit it in there. If I have to I can take the front wheel off, then I'll have plenty of access. I hope!

[rhandwor]

I think you should buy the 1/2 inch socket. You might be able to get it with a 3/8 inch drive but I doubt it. I would also borrow his 1/2 inch breaker bar and a short extension.

[denisond3]

I have used a 1/2" drive socket, but its the heavy duty kind made for used with impact wrenches, and has 6 points, not twelve. I undo the motor mount and have a jack under the oil pan (with a wood block to avoid cracking the pan) so I can let the engine droop to where I have a straight shot at the bolt. I remove the wheel, and the bottom splash guard. I use an extension long enough to bring the wrench out to be flush with the fender of the car. The extension I use is also the kind to be used with impact wrenches. I support the end of the extension with a jackstand or pile of wood blocks. This lets me exert lots of force on a breaker bar (with a length of 3" pipe on the end of it - without bending the bolt downward, just exerting torque on it.
On another car I worked on, (a Saturn SL2) I used the same general schem, but used my oxy-acetylene torch to heat the crank pulley bolt; not enough to detemper it, or to melt anything on the crankshaft (seals, pan gasket), but enough to soften that mil-spec thread locker they must use. Using a propane torch wont work, as its just not hot enough to make any difference.
For an Escort, I find it works well to put a medium size tapered line-up-tool (like a long center-punch) into the space between the teeth on the flywheel or starter ring, and the side of the tranny bell housing. This requires first dropping the catylytic converter and removing the small aluminum access plate. I tap the line-up-tool in so its held snugly.
An air impact wrench would elminate all this extra work -- if I owned an air impact wrench, and had gotten around to fixing my air compressor.

[Davescort97]

Denisond3 has covered all the bases and take his advice unless you want to use the electrical impact gun. I have one and use it to take lug nuts off. If you are patient it will loosen that damper bolt. You've already put penetrating oil on it so you should be good to go. You may have to let it impact as many times as it takes to loosen it. It will eventually get the bolt out. Use a 1/2 inch impact socket. Your friend may have the right six point socket to fit that comes with the gun. I recently took the pulley bolt off a 97 and had to let it impact quite a few times. An air impact gun will impact 8-10 times a second. The electrical impacts about once every 2 seconds so stay after it and you will get it out.

[RocketUSA]

I tried the impact wrench, but I think there's something wrong with it. I can almost hold it back with my hand...not good. Maybe I'm imagining that.

I don't have an impact socket, the best I have for now is the 12-point socket, 3/8. The motor mount is off, engine supported by a jack & wood block. I have a straight shot at it. The splash guard is off, but the wheel is still on. I feel good about the angle it's at anyway. I used a Craftsman extension to get it out past the fender, and promptly broke it. The thing just exploded. I know I should be using 1/2 inch tools, I just can't get down to buy them during the work week.

I've used a short screwdriver in the past in the flywheel teeth, a method I'm trying again. The only thing is that I need a helper for that, and he'll be here in about an hour.

The good news is I'm using all Craftsman stuff. The bad news is it's still stuck.

[mightymoose_22]

if you didn't do so... adjust the torque on the impact wrench to a higher setting. What you described sounds as if it is on a low setting.

[RocketUSA]

GOT IT OFF!!!! WOOHOO!!! I hit it with the impact wrench, probably about 60 seconds worth total (in bursts, not constant) and then had a friend hold the socket on straight while I pulled slowly and steadily with a breaker bar.

Now, next problem. I was working on removing the sprocket in order to change the seal behind it (I suspect an oil leak) and in applying a little prying force to it my buddy snapped part of the metal ring off. Ouch. I sprayed some WD-40 on it and called it a night. Is there a puller for that thing? I gotta get a new one now...what's the official name of that thing? The Haynes manual calls it a timing belt pulley, but I can't find that part to buy at NAPAonline.

[denisond3]

It might also be called a timing belt sprocket. I have rebuilt two Escort engines. On one of them that timing belt sprocket just slipped off using a large pair of pliers. On the other one the rim broke away, just like happened to your car. I had the engine on my workbench, and was able to remove the water pump and get some tapered steel items behind it; cold chisels, large screwdrivers, etc. I would tap them into the space between the aluminum of the oil pump housing, then with the the crankshaft pulley pulley bolt screwed back into the end of the crank, I would whack it with a hammer. This would move the crankshaft back in by the distance of the 'end play' at the thrust bearing. This got it off, and also messed up the belt guide that goes at the back end of that timing belt pulley or sprocket.
The problem is that you can not get easy access to insert the tapered tools behind that sprocket, except from above. The lip of the casting at the bottom of the oil pump prevents it.
There may be pullers designed to reache behind that sprocket, though I havent seen one. You might try looking over the stuff at www.snapon.com, or any of the other tool firms, or calling the contact number or sending an email.
When I did get that damaged sprocket off, I found corrosion on the crank and the inside of that sprocket. I used a spare sprocket, as re-using the damaged one would shorten the life of the timing belt Greatly!


If I had not had good access to it, I was thinking of drilling holes through it, along a diameter, then cracking it into two pieces with a cold chisel. That would have taken many hours, as its not mild steel, its semihardened.

[RocketUSA]

Thanks denisond3. Your input is very much appreciated. I called the Ford dealership, and I've got replacement on the way via overnight. I'll be able to install that tomorrow, if I can get the old one off tonight. I'm not sure I follow you on putting that bolt back in the crank and then whacking it. Could you expand on that a little?

My main concern right now is I've got a bit of an oil leak down there. It's seeping a little from the oil pan gasket, and a little bit from the top of the oil pump housing. I gave the bolts on the housing a slight snug (like a 1/32 turn) and I'm planning on replacing the crank seal. I think the presence of oil degraded my belt as I only got about 30K out of it (& 39 months). Much too short for a timing belt. Maybe I'll take a pic and post it for general consumption.

I have to say, I love my Escort. I've got nearly 248K on it, I've owned it since it was a pup. It's a great car.

[rhandwor]

This is a picture of a harmonic balancer puller. If this number isn't correct try this number 2236 just use the search. This is a lot cheaper than an otc but looks identical.
http://www.autopart.com/tools/toolsmain/tool/T_A810.htm