safari click-click-click door open & battery drained

[gofish]

1996 safari LT with anti theft system.
Wife told me van will not start and it's making a click-click-click-repeating continually which is not coming from the starter/solenoid but sounds like it's coming from under the dash and I was guessing anti theft system components making it. Voltage on battery is less than 12 volts. I disconnected what I believe is anti theft system by pulling the two fuses from a line running from battery + connection at the underhood electrical center.
After charging battery over 12 volts it now started and ran for 2 months without problems per my wife.
Today she said van will not start and it's making the click-click-click- repetition upon opening the door and the sound appears to be coming from dash or around steering wheel area. Once again I checked voltage & yes it's below 12 volts.
I am trying to find out where the short is since I doubt if it would be drained upon a few minutes of the door opening and wife coming in to tell me unless their was a major flow of electricity fast. Fuses in both under hood and under steering wheel have been checked & ok. There is a good ground from negative to car frame cleaned today. I have now disconnected Aux B upfitter battery feed and aux a lines upfitter ignition feed to see what the difference will be and am charging the battery.
while waiting I noticed if any door or the hatch is open the interior lights come on but will not go off unless the door and hatch is closed and then 35 seconds later. (I believe previously at night when I opened the hatch for putting in groceries it would time off in 35 seconds even if still open and I was then unable to tell where to put groceries-so this is unusual that the timer is only working when it is a closed hatch & not an open hatch)
1. Any help or McGuiver answers would be appreciated in locating the short, battery drawdown.
2.What does Aux B Upfitter Battery Feed normally go to - the trailer harness???
3. what does Aux A Upfitter Ignition Feed normally do????
Also, when I remove Circuit Breaker A, below the steering wheel, which controls the power door locks, dutch door, etc. the click-click-click stops but I am now unable to even manually open the dutch hatch with this removed, thus I reinserted it and removed Aux. B (chickened out on removing A since unknown function) and noise is presently gone but I am not sure if short is really on these lines. Also cut the wire from dutch door to light to prevent it from running down battery with the hatch left open. So will try driving and checking voltage to see if it's still shorting somewhere. As mentioned, mcguiver solutions welcome.

[Blue Bowtie]

1. Get a #80 rubber band, two flat toothpicks, a piece of vinyl electrical tape, a bottle cap, and a foil gum wrapper. Set them aside in a safe place as they will be of absolutely no use in diagnosing the problem at hand, but might get you in the analytical "McGyver" mood;

2 & 3. The "Upfitter" fuses and circuits are intended to supply body accessory power to aftermarket conversion and some factory optional devices. Removing those Maxi fuses should not prevent the vehicle from starting and running, but may be necessary to isolate any parasitic battery drain.

You should really connect a milliammeter in series in the battery main cables Don't try to start the engine or use heavy loads, such as headlights, while the meter is connected. Read the standing or parasitic load on the battery with everything in the vehicle turned off. Expect to see no more than 125mA (PCM, radio/clock, and BCM/SIR control module refresh) total load. If there is more, start removing fuses one at a time to attempt to isolate the circuit(s) drawing more current.

[gofish]

All's well so far with no additional shorting or battery drawdown. My guess is Aux. B was feeding the alarm system and a short was occuring thru it back to battery. I'll consider the tests mentioned if a short starts again blue bowtie.
Thanks for mentioning Aux. A & B being for auxillary systems usually aftermarket etc. so it sounds like a safe place to try a quick disconnect if anyone else has this type of short problem without the tools to check for the drawdown or the time to pull fuses. I have not noticed any other systems failing after my disconnect of Aux. B.