Water Pump Replacement

Kawazar · #1 09-24-2008, 03:08 PM

I need to replace the water pump and noticed that alot of the parts suppliers sell either standard duty or severe duty. What's the difference? Also, I have 160k, should I do the fan clutch while I am there? It's the original clutch.

MT-2500 · #2 09-24-2008, 06:13 PM

What year and engine?
severe duty on water pump or clutch fan.
Kinda depends on what the call heavey duty?
Is clutch fan bad or good?
If clutch fan is good why replace it.

Go what water pump came out OEM on it.
I always go brand new no rebuilt.

Kawazar · #3 09-24-2008, 06:21 PM

94 K1500 5.7L 160K. The description says "increased cooling capacity and heavy duty components". Another one says "utilize roller bearings, ceramic seals and larger diameter shafts". All of the others say standard duty with nothing else added to the description. We are talking about a $15 to $20 difference over a standard pump. These are all new pumps.

MT-2500 · #4 09-24-2008, 07:33 PM

They are just trying to get a extraa 20 dollars.
Save that for a new belt and or hoses.
Thell them you just want a good new major brand water pump witout all of the thrills.
All water pumps have rooler beaings.
And a good major brand new pump will have good seals.
Water pump does not do the coolaing it just moves water.
Any good pump will move all of the water you need moved.

wafrederick · #5 09-24-2008, 09:58 PM

Here is another tip,the best socket to use is a chrome 3/8" drive 9/16" Snap On 6 point deepwell socket for the waterpump bolts when installing.The Snap On deepwell socket has a stop in it which the bolts will not slide back.Most new ones have no core charges on them.The new waterpumps are more than a rebuilt most of the time.

Kawazar · #6 09-25-2008, 09:35 AM

I would not go rebuilt, new only. What about the fan clutch? Should I replace it since I have to remove it anyway? I noticed that no matter how cold it gets, the fan will still move air at idle. I know that the fan should still move when it's cold but I can put my hand behind the fan and it blows quite a bit of air.

MT-2500 · #7 09-25-2008, 09:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kawazar

I would not go rebuilt, new only. What about the fan clutch? Should I replace it since I have to remove it anyway? I noticed that no matter how cold it gets, the fan will still move air at idle. I know that the fan should still move when it's cold but I can put my hand behind the fan and it blows quite a bit of air.

Is the fan lose or leakig oil?

A good clutch fan will kick in solid and move a lot of air when engine tempt gets over 200 degrees and you can hear and feel it when it kicks in good.
Does you still do that?

Kawazar · #8 09-25-2008, 12:47 PM

The fan is not leaking oil. I can turn it by hand and if I try to spin it, it may move 1/2 to 1 inch when it is cold. I can't hear or feel it kick in. I know what you are saying, when the fan engages you hear a roar. I don't remember hearing that even when it was 90 outside. On occasion when I first drive it in the morning I can hear the roar of the fan when I first accelerate. Then the roar goes away and it seems like it disengages. But, keep in mind the engine is still cold.

MT-2500 · #9 09-25-2008, 01:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kawazar

The fan is not leaking oil. I can turn it by hand and if I try to spin it, it may move 1/2 to 1 inch when it is cold. I can't hear or feel it kick in. I know what you are saying, when the fan engages you hear a roar. I don't remember hearing that even when it was 90 outside. On occasion when I first drive it in the morning I can hear the roar of the fan when I first accelerate. Then the roar goes away and it seems like it disengages. But, keep in mind the engine is still cold.

You need to test it when engine tempt is 200-205 degrees.
If it is working you can hear and feel it kick in.
If not replace it.

Kawazar · #10 10-06-2008, 03:22 PM

I replaced the water pump and fan clutch last week. I really notice a difference in the sound of the fan. Thanks for the help! Since I did all of this I have been checking the radiator level because I assume there is air in the system. I have checked it 3 times and the radiator is always about 1" low. I refill it and a day later its low again. I filled the reservoir to the hot level assuming the radiator would draw off of that if it went low. The reservoir level has stayed the same every time I checked the radiator. I am absolutely sure there are no leaks. Could there still be air in the system? I have only gone about 100 mi since the pump was replaced.

MT-2500 · #11 10-06-2008, 03:44 PM

If the heater is putting out good hot air the should be bleed out.
I would check rad cap and the hose from tank to rad.
If they are woring right the rad should stay full.

Is it losing water or just not transfering coolant from tank to rad?

Kawazar · #12 10-06-2008, 03:50 PM

I haven't replaced the rad. cap. I will get a new one today, I can't remember how old it is. It seems like it isn't drawing the coolant from the tank. I will also try blowing a little air through the hose to the tank, it could be clogged. I am positive its not leaking. I went over the truck with a flashlight and can't find anything. I don't have a smell of coolant either, typical of a leak.

vinvin · #13 10-10-2008, 11:56 PM

any suggestions on a timing belt driven water pump on a 96 grand caravan. ?? seems labor intensive, is this true? any where I can get adownload a manual and read it through b 4 hand??

MT-2500 · #14 10-11-2008, 09:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vinvin

any suggestions on a timing belt driven water pump on a 96 grand caravan. ?? seems labor intensive, is this true? any where I can get adownload a manual and read it through b 4 hand??

Welcome to AF.
Vinvin
Your post on a caravan should be posted in carvan forum alomg with engine mileage year make and model.
And a good descrription of the problem and what it is doing or not doing.
Good Luck

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