97 Lumina Cranks, but won't start

[slider1981]

My 97 Lumina won't start. It cranks when I turn the key, but that's all it does. The lights and radio are working. I have noticed recently (may not be the issue) that when starting the car at night, when the car first starts the lights go dim for a second then go up to full power. I've also had a few days where it would take to cranks to start, but very very few.

Please let me know if I need to provide any more info.

[maxwedge]

Welcome to AF, lots of possibilities here, do you have spark at the plugs, will it start spraying starting fluid into the intaker, do ypu have fuuel pressure, these are all basic diagnositc steps

[sad-lumina-owner]

This is a bad sign.

And before you keep cranking it over and over, you need to find out if yours is an 'interference' engine: an engine in which the valves can strike the pistons if the timing is out of place.

I had the very same problem, but I was lucky:

My engine (/94 lumina 3.4L v6 DOHC) is apparently a NON-interference engine.

When the timing belt stripped, and the cams stopped moving, the engine just stopped, and simply turned over but no start.

I was lucky, there was no unusual noise when the engine cut out,and no damage.

The engine probably didn't get far out of sync before it cut out, and once the cams stopped turning, the sparkplug ignition also stopped, and the gas injectors stopped opening, so no gas went into the chambers. The injectors are controlled by the ECM (small computer) which takes its cue from the timing.

HOWEVER, in a newer NON-interference engine, (like the post /96 version of the 3.4L) apparently it can be alot worse: your pistons can hit the valves and both are destroyed ... = need a new engine.

So first find out if you can even safely crank the car when timing belt is stripped or broken.

(2) If its okay to crank, and no start, you can check off the following list:

a) is it the fuel pump? This is a little pump INSIDE the gas tank, that you can hear 'whirr' quietly when you turn the key on, for a few seconds. If you can hear the 'whirr' then its probably okay.

b) is it the fuel filter? This is a little can halfway between the tank and engine on the underside of the car, and to change it you have to shut OFF the fuel pump by pulling the fuse/and relay out of the fusebox. When changing this remember gas is carcenogenic and will squirt out in your eyes if you aren't smart enough to wear goggles and cover the unit with a rag.

c) is it the fuel injection? This is probably not likely the problem, since even dirty injectors usually open and the car will run badly... unless its electrical: the injector is an electric solonoid (a valve opened and closed by electricity) and it could be a bad solonoid, connector, wire, fuse/relay, or the ECM (onboard computer) failing to open it.

d) is it an electrical connection? or have you got spark in your plugs? you can pull a spark plug wire and see if a spark jumps to the engine body when you hold it close while cranking. But its not likely the coils (the 3.4L has THREE coils, one for every TWO cylinders) since some cylinders would fire.

e) is it the TIMING BELT? This fooled me and my mechanic friend for a couple of days, till we pulled a cover and examined it. It was worn to half-width and many teeth were stripped out (not broken though). Replaced this and the car fired up beautifully (we also replaced the idler and tension pulleys, since all four items are only good for 50,000 miles.

Hope this helps. Check your engine type!

[maxwedge]

This is not a 3.4, it has no t belt for starters. The basic diagnostics called for here as you state are fuel and spark, spark is automatically confirmed using a small dose of starter fluid, if it pops you are good, then check for the proper pressure at the rail, these are the 2 simplest basic steps for a crank no start on this type of engine.

[Oldcars RULE]

I've a 92 Z-34 that would only start when totally cold or not all.. Crank on the key as much as you want, it was a crap shoot if it started of not..

Once started it would run for a bit and then die, come to find out?
The Igniton Module was bad/going bad.. Fixed that..
Car would start once again, but would not stay running..
Come to find, bad Injectors.. Fixed that..

Aternator took a dump, Fixed that.. Radiator fans aren't working now..
My question is? What's NEXT??

It's no wonder Toyota is #1 now, GM products SUCK!!

[maxwedge]

A 16 year old car with issues, yoiu think this only happens with GM cars!?

[DnaProRacing]

Originally Posted by Oldcars RULE

I've a 92 Z-34 that would only start when totally cold or not all.. Crank on the key as much as you want, it was a crap shoot if it started of not..

Once started it would run for a bit and then die, come to find out?
The Igniton Module was bad/going bad.. Fixed that..
Car would start once again, but would not stay running..
Come to find, bad Injectors.. Fixed that..

Aternator took a dump, Fixed that.. Radiator fans aren't working now..
My question is? What's NEXT??

It's no wonder Toyota is #1 now, GM products SUCK!!

dont ask whats next. cuz it WILL go wrong. i bought my 92 z34 in feb 2007, have spent just shy of 7k since then on fixing one thing, next day something else went. i know what you're going thru. but if you love the car "as much as i do", its well worth it...