driver window not working

[Lucianp]

I have a problem with my driver window not opening. I get a clicking noise from the door. I assume from a relay. All other windows work from the master console on the drivers door with no problem - although the rear windows may hesitate to open at times.

Before I start dismantling too much, what is the correct approach to diagnose the problem? Because everything else works, I assume it is going to be the motor or the switch to that motor.

Are there any fuses/relays/connections that I need to check first?
How can I check if the switch is ok?

If they are ok, I expect I will have to rip the door apart and check the motor itself.

Do I need to purchase any special test equipment? If so, recommendations please - with an eye on cost.

[wiswind]

One thing to keep in mind is that the driver's side (only) has the "one touch down" relay....that fully runs the window down with just a tap of the button.

Each side has it's OWN fuse in the I/P fuse panel.

I have a '96......and the wiring and fuse numbers may vary from year to year.

You can troubleshoot the problem with a volt meter....but don't hold the button for too long as it could blow the fuse.
However....you want to hold the button down long enough for the sampling time of the meter to get a reading.
You can get a feel for the sample time of your meter (varies from meter to meter) by taking a measurment of the battery at the battery terminals......and seeing how long it takes for the meter to register from the time you put the leads on the terminals.

Now......on my '96, I had the outer (furthest from the door hinge) rail for the glass break off......a spot weld breaks........
This has happened on BOTH the driver side and the passenger side.
Very easy fix......buy a new one at the dealership......bolts in place.

Also....if you end up needing a new motor......I would recommend getting the motor/gear unit as 1 assembly......
You have to drill the metal of the door to get to the bolts to remove the motor/gear unit.....3 holes.
Also, replacement unit that I bought required that I splice the wires to the wires on the car.

I have pictures posted that show this....as well as how to remove the inner door trim panel.......in the pictures that the link in my signature takes you to.

In my case.....I replaced the motor / gear unit.....and it worked fine for a while.....then it would not come down again.......
I take the door apart.....mess with it....and it works for a while.....then sticks again.
So.....in my case...the original motor / gear unit was most likely good (still ran) but the window sticks in the closed position....even after I have greased all the pivot points...etc.
Right now.....when it sticks.....I work the switch between the up and down position....and it will work free.

[Lucianp]

Thanks Wiswind,
remember that you are dealing with a complete non-mechanic so please excuse what may appear dumb questions.

the "one touch down" relay

Where will I find this?

Each side has it's OWN fuse in the I/P fuse panel

Is the I/P fuse panel the one down by my feet? I don't have a list of the fuses so I will have to pull them all one by one.

Fuses, I can see if they're good or not but the relays, I have no way of knowing if one is good or bad.

[12Ounce]

Fuse #106 at the battery plays a role. As does fuse #18 and relay #2 in the cabin box near your left foot.

After checking those, pry up the control switch bezel in the driver's door ... HEH, is there an echo in here?

[Lucianp]

relay #2 in the cabin box

Are all relay the same? Imean can I swap one with another for testing or do they have different ratings etc.?

[Lucianp]

Does anyone have an answer please?

relay #2 in the cabin box
Are all relay the same? I mean can I swap one with another for testing or do they have different ratings etc.?

[12Ounce]

All auto relays that have similar ratings ... have similar bases. So if it plugs in, without using a hammer ... it's the right relay.

Most of the relays on your model are one of two sizes. The radiator fan relays are two additional unique relays ...

So that means a total of 4 different sizes ... 4 different bases.

[Lbert]

Remove the wire harness connector to the window motor, turn your ignition switch to accessories, attach the probes of your multimeter to the wire harness connector. Now flip the back and forth the window switch. You should get a reading of +12v and -12V as you flip the switch. If you do, your relay and fuse are okay. Your problem is with the window motor, window regulator, or both.

I just did both my windows. One window I had to replace the motor, but re-built the motor to the other window. I took several pictures of the project. Perhaps I will have enough time in the next few days to do a write up.