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#1 | |
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AF Newbie
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Cincinnati, Ohio
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I have a 96 S10 2.2, 5 speed, ext cab, 2wd. Any suggestions on how to increase the payload and/or raise the body? I'm not trying to go off-road or anything, I'm just not very fond of the "saggy rear-end" look.
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#2 | |
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AF Enthusiast
![]() Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: San Antonio, Texas
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Re: S10 Suspension
my s-10 is same specs except 2 years newer, 136K, and rear suspension is in tip top shape, all factory. what are you hauling that makes it sag, or is it like that unloaded?
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Disclaimer: I am not perfect, i may be wrong in my advice from time to time. Also note that any advice given is as is with no warranty whatsoever, and i have zero liability if you get hurt for not being safe while working on your vehicle. |
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#3 | |
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AF Newbie
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Re: S10 Suspension
I got an 85 s-10. when i got it the rear end seemed higher than normal. i looked on the axle and therewere 2 extra, very stiff springs. come to find out they are called booster springs. they were mounted under the axle bump stops and increase hauling wieght. look into a booster spring set. but u must install them unloaded and with the frame lifted and the rear axle must have no weight on it what so ever.
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FORD - Found On Road Dead, ****ed Over Rebuilt Dodge, Flip Over to Read Directions, Fix Or Repair Daily,(backwards) Driver Returns On Foot (it shows I hate ford) |
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#4 | |
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AF Regular
![]() Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Alpena, Michigan
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Re: S10 Suspension
the booster springs you are refering to are called (overload springs).
they will only raise the height of the vehical the thickness of the spring itself. these are made to compinsate for a load in the box of the truck to keep it from saging. What you want to do is just add a leaf spring. Go to a junk yard and buy two springs. preferably the first spring after the main ( the one with the bolt holes in them). In most cases you can add this spring without changeing the U-bolts. this will raise the rear the thickness of the leaf and then some. There is a guild stud that bolts these springs together and it would be a good idea to have two of these handy when doing this job. Also, the U-Bolts may strip out when removeing the nuts. replacments can be found at most auto stores. haveing a set of C-Clamps handy for re-clustering the springs is a good idea as well. |
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#5 | |
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AF Fanatic
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: EVERETT, Massachusetts
Posts: 10,898
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Re: S10 Suspension
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Also, the U-Bolts may strip out when removing the nuts. replacments can be found at most auto stores. haveing a set of C-Clamps handy for re-clustering the springs is a good idea as well.[/quote] wire brush hardware and use penetrating oil in that order, a week before doing this. you should have no problems Last edited by j cAT; 02-13-2008 at 07:32 PM. |
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#6 | |
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AF Newbie
Thread starter
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Cincinnati, Ohio
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Re: S10 Suspension
Thanks GAS, sounds like a good plan. I'l look into that.
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#7 | |
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AF Newbie
![]() Join Date: May 2007
Location: central, Texas
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Re: S10 Suspension
I think you'd be OK doing as GAS said. Unless you put it into a shop for a custom lift job front & rear, you don't wanna raise the rear so much that it distorts your drivetrain's geometry and puts excessive strain on the u-joints. A stiffer pair of shocks back there might be enough, but the junk yard springs are probably cheaper.
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#8 | |
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AF Regular
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Location: Alpena, Michigan
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Re: S10 Suspension
The only thing with changing shocks is that they would have to be overload shocks.(they come with a spring attatched).
In general, all standard and H.D. shocks only stabilize the ride of a vehical, thats all they do. GAS shocks do put a little upward pressure but not enough to make a difference. Again, they only stabileize the ride. |
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