Motor Mounts??

[bigboi_408]

Im swapping in a d16z6 into my ef.
my question is can i use the same mounts from my car or do i have to buy aftermarket mounts? since the engine is OBD1

[FrodoGT]

Use all of your mounts. Take the one off the engine block and put it on the z6. 3/4 mounts are on the tranny so now worries there.

[Christ]

Originally Posted by FrodoGT

Take the one off the engine block and put it on the z6.

What this means is that you need to take the stock front mount off your current engine, and bolt it onto the Z6, as the EG Civic has a pancake mount on the front of the engines, rather than a through-bolt mount, like EF's do.

It's two bolts, very simple change-over.

[FrodoGT]

Thats not the one I was referring to actually. If he is using his stock tranny there is nothing you need to do to those mounts. I was speaking of the drivers side mount, the only one that actually bolts to the engine.

[Tony]

Frodo, that is the same one Christ is talking about. There is only one Engine mount(excluding the stabilizer on the z6 A/C bracket)

[FrodoGT]

Ok well..mine was not a through bolt mount but regardless. thats what you need to do.

[Christ]

re-clarification:

The EG civic has a pancake mount, as in, the mount is a rubber "pancake" with a bolt in the middle...

EF monts are ALL through-bolt mounts... i.e. the actual fastener is a bolt that goes through the mount, and the mount's suspension is supported by the bolt in a "shear" fashion, meaning that all the force is on the side of the bolt, perpendicular to it's length.

With "pancake" mounts, the fastener is arranged in a way that puts the force (load) on the threads of the fastener, or parallel to the length of the fastener... (*this is not entirely true, due to the way the engine moves, but for this case, and for the sake of my fingers and all the typing I'd have to do to clarify further, we'll use it as is.)

The "front" of the engine is ALWAYS the closest area to the number 1 cylinder, or the crank snout, when being referenced... just like the "front left" of your car is driver's side front, as though you're sitting in the car... it's referenced this way to avoid confusion due to transverse engine arrangements where "front of engine" could be confused to mean "area closest to front of engine bay".

What was actually meant by my last post was that he'd have to change the EG mount to an EF mount, only needing to change the one that was closest to the crank snout, meaning "front engine".

You can also remove the stabilizer mount from the "front of the engine" that penetrates a rubber mount on the chassis of the EG you get the engine from, or you can take that mount and use it, but it will require slight modification to the engine side of the mount, and obviously to your chassis, as you don't have pre-drilled/tapped holes for that mount.

It's VERY unneccessary to use, but some have used it for that extra vibration dampening.

This concludes "Physical Science as it applies to Engine Swapping Theory 101"

[Tony]

You just have to over do it don't you?

I think the stabilizer mounts could be more usefull if they actually had some meat to them, but there is nothing there. My EG race car I drove for 2 years didn't have either stabilizer mount on it because both were busted when I got the car, and aside from ordering NEW ones, I couldn't find another one that wasn't busted. I didn't have any issues out of it. My current B18 in my EF is only held in by 3 mounts, eventually, yes, I would like to add a "front" mount(Just for ease, I always refer to the mounts as Left, Front, Right, Back since there are usually only 3 or 4 :P)

[Christ]

Yes, I do. 'nuff said. :P

[bigboi_408]

im hella confused.
i just ordered new mounts from hasport since all of mine were craking

[Tony]

Wow, your getting some expensive Shiny mounts for a D-series, lol. Most people still use stock mounts with inserts, or there are other makers that don't charge and arm and a leg for a damn mount. My B-series mounts only ran me $140 and they are great quality.

[bigboi_408]

im planning on building my car right so im buying the best.
this car has been passed down from my family and im planning to make it like new again. yea i know 300 for motor mounts are a little too expensive but i rather spend that know than be sorry for it later.

[Tony]

Apparently you miss the whole "I got my mounts for $140 and they are great" part. Trust me, not all the time $$ = quality, especially on some of this shit, because a lot of it is jacked up for the name thats on it. My mounts are Yonaka Motor Mounts. You can see the MSRP on them, but they can be had off of eBay for about $140-150.

All that was said was that you needed to take the motor mount off your stock engine(the ONLY mount that is bolted to the engine, the bracket I believe is what they are talking about) and install it on the d16z6. This will allow you to use your stock motor mount.

You kind of have to ignore me, dropzone, and frodo sometimes. We tend to over do things sometimes and give each other hell. Just take the simple things we give you and ignore the complicated answers that sometimes follows.

[Christ]

Haha.. there is no sometimes about it... I turn everything into a technical manual. :P

[bigboi_408]

so the motor mounts didnt fit onto the engine so i folled frodos advice and switched over the engine bracket and it worked. i used my stock mounts and now ima return the hasport mounts and i already talked to the manager and he is gonna give me the FULL refund