ZC Q's back with zengance!

[seth 90DX/ZC]

I wanted some help building my DOHC ZC engine...Its out of the car right now (In fact I took the whole thing apart so I could do internals) So I will need help getting the bitch back together :o Curent mods are AEM CAI-PACESETTER HEADER.... I am putting EnDyn 12-13 5:1 CR pistons and rings in when I get them, I want to use shorter (Stronger) rods that will get me more RPM's and higher top end power. I am going for a mild port and polish and getting the cams reground by iether WEB CAMS or GUDE... Gude seems a little taxed to me. I am also getting ZC adjustable cam gears and borring out the TB and Manifold (I was thinkin bout gettin a P&P on maniflod too, but not sure if woth the $$$) Blue and balance asembly 8000+Rpm pluss knife edge crank. Lighter (Perhaps slightly larger) valves...

I will be (most likley) using a 50-75 Shot of NX nos on a MSD no button system.

My first question is Do you think I need to RESLEEVE the block for the nos?
Second question is Do you guys know of any aftermarket valve train assemblies? I hear the stock rocker arms can come off track @ high RPM and High HP applications.
Also with that high of a CR+Nos I will need to retard timing correct?

This is a slow build Im not to woried about time, I do however want to get it in the car. :bandit:

[FourthGenHatch]

First thing you should do is take off the Pacesetter Header and throw in in the garbage because it's a piece of shit as is anything Pacesetter or Monza makes. The paint is going to peel off in a little bit leaving exposed steel which will rust the instant it gets wet. You would be better off getting even a used DC Sports Header or something, I would take stock ZC Header over a Pacesetter.

[91civicDXdude]

i've heard from many honda dudes that run boost/high hp NA setups and they all say to leave the crank alone. stock honda cranks really dont benefit from any kind of work done to them as they are well enough factory spec.

[seth 90DX/ZC]

Originally posted by FourthGenHatch
First thing you should do is take off the Pacesetter Header and throw in in the garbage because it's a piece of shit as is anything Pacesetter or Monza makes. The paint is going to peel off in a little bit leaving exposed steel which will rust the instant it gets wet. You would be better off getting even a used DC Sports Header or something, I would take stock ZC Header over a Pacesetter.

Prolly true, but it was only $180 and I can wrap it so it wont matter anyway! The actual desighn is a good desighn, the fact that it rusts is of no consern to me because rust on my header doesent affect performance of the header or my engine... Pluss 3 hours of sand blasting and a $30 Cromoly dip is $210-$220 thats about $100 less than a DC... DC header is ONLY better because it has a smog # so its all legit. You think Ima be able to smog my shit? I live in cali my frend, and JDM DOHC ZC engines are illegal for streat use aplications

[seth 90DX/ZC]

Originally posted by 91civicDXdude
i've heard from many honda dudes that run boost/high hp NA setups and they all say to leave the crank alone. stock honda cranks really dont benefit from any kind of work done to them as they are well enough factory spec.

Im not tryin to "lash out" at anyone or say your wrong, Im the one asking for advice... But How the hell am I going to hit 8000+ RPMs with the stock crank?

[seth 90DX/ZC]

1. So do you guys think I should retard the timing with 12-13 5:1 CR pistons?

2.Also what do you think about using shorter rods?

3.Shorter rods will drop the CR wont they?

4. I should definitaly retard if I use NOS right? 50-75HP RPM Activated system...

:bandit:

[91zc]

12.0-13.5:1 compression is going to take pinpoint tuning to be able to run on pump gas. My stock crank revs to 8200 with no problem. A lot of top H/A racers don't really touch the crank since there isn't alot of benefits to be gained. Most just have the bottom end balanced and that is it. You will definitely need to do something with the timing. Maybe go with a standalone to run the high comp. and nitrous. For peace of mind you may want to sleeve the block since the high comp and nitrous will be exerting alot of force on the stock cylinder walls.

[SiZ]

If I were you I'd be asking your invisible buddy with the 230whp NA ZC. He's got ALL the knowledge.

[seth 90DX/ZC]

Originally posted by SiZ
If I were you I'd be asking your invisible buddy with the 230whp NA ZC. He's got ALL the knowledge.

Sigh... That dyno he showed me did say 230 WHP... With a 60 Shot of nos! My bad dude... I thought that was all motor. I didnt even scan it after I saw the NOS was on the dyno sheet...

You want me to get it anyway?

Anyways the plan now is to get it sleeved and boared out a little bit...How much bigger should I go? I was going to use the EnDyn pistons my frend is using but they are so taxed! Im gonna use the 10 5:1 SRP D16A1 pistons instead... I hope they make them over boared

[91zc]

The largest you can bore a d series motor out to after sleeving is 79mm. That should give you a nice bump in displacement. And most aftermarket piston manufacturers can make any size piston you want. I know for a fact wiseco can custom make a piston for any setup.

[seth 90DX/ZC]

Custom piston for custom $$$? Or for the same price? Also I might be acuiring a T4 Garret ball berring turbo Its HUGE! Its a cutom job or somethin, its got a tiny little turbine side and a huge ass compressor side! Someone told me it was a T66 but Im not sure till I get it! It could probably use a rebuild, how much would that cost? If I get it it will cost me $400... Is that resonable?