Some "To finish" projects

[pkw1]

4th Generation Honda Prelude Vtec by Fujimi

Modifications: Molded in wide body kit (Tamiya Putty) and GTR-style rear spoiler (taken from a R33 GTR kit)





Subaru Impressa WRX by Hasegawa (converted into STi Version)

Modifications: Front under spoiler/side and rear skirts and rear spoiler are all hand made with Tamiya putty..




VW Golf GL by Fujimi (converted into VR6)

Modifications: Bumper, side/rear skirts, wide fenders made with Tamiya Putty, Foglights taken from a Tamiya Rally Car kit..

[Jay!]

Wow, man, you do good work with putty!! Is all that sculpted free-hand, or do you use a template, or what?

[pkw1]

all free hand no templates.. which is probably why I take for ever to finish one kit

one of my "wish to start soon" project is to turn a Fujimi SW20 MR-2 into a TRD wide body MR-2... that project I'm planning to use 1.5mm thick plastic sheets and see how that turns out

[primera man]

Awesome....i'm speechless.

Give us some more info on how you do it please

[Chris]

I am amazed. i have only made one (simple) part out of putty (probably crap, mainly for small patch jobs), and itsucked.

What type of putty do you use,a dn how do you mold it?? SO you buy 2 kits, and use them together? Interesting. Awesome work.

[genX]

[pkw1]

Thanks guys I'm glad my work is liked by others out there.

I have a collection of probably hm.. 40-50 model kits in 1/24 alone.. so sometimes when they come with extra parts, unused parts, or I basically bought the kit to turn it into something else, there are tons of parts left sitting there, and I usually make use of those parts and modify them a bit... (ex: the big foglights that come with most Tamiya Rally Car Kits.. i hate those things.. so i never use them on rally cars. but the quality of Tamiya's parts work great to replace Fujimi's crappy foglights in say.. the Lancer Evolutions )

I use a Tamiya Epoxy Putty that comes in a long thin blue box. it has instructions on how to use this stuff inside the box, and i usually start from there....

after hand molding it onto the car, let dry for about 6 hrs or so, then you can shave off extra parts and to detail it more with razor blades, then let dry for another 4-5 hrs and you may sand it down smooth. Tamiya Tooth paste like putty was then used to fill small holes, gaps etc... more sanding after that, then use Mr. Surface liquid putty for the smoothest finish.. sand then prime...

:frog:

[Jay!]

Originally posted by pkw1
one of my "wish to start soon" project is to turn a Fujimi SW20 MR-2 into a TRD wide body MR-2... that project I'm planning to use 1.5mm thick plastic sheets and see how that turns out

I'll give you a tip for this one that has nothing too do with your planned customizations. Put something in the engine bay cavity. I built this kit box-stock, and when it's complete you can look right in the side scoops and see the nothing inside. In fact you can look in one scoop and see out the other! I thought the "bucket" for the interior was going to fix it, but it doesn't.

[pkw1]

thanks for the tip Jay

I have built that kit before too.. but LONG time ago when i was little.. heehee.. that kit turned out VERY bad... but I did noticed the holes, back then I use to just hide some plastic back there and paint it black.. haha.. i think i'll use some mesh or something this time...

do you guys know where I'd be able to buy thin mesh rather then ordering the ones by Fujimi from Hobby Link Japan? they're kind if expensive.

[Jay!]

I'm still living off the mesh for the grill of the Tamiya R33 Skyline. I'm going to use it for my Integra project, and maybe I'll put some in the MR2, too, while I have it open.

I got more with my Tamiya NSX Type R. I don't know yet how much I'll have left over.

I've been meaning to look for a suitable substitute, too. I was thinking screen door screen would be good, but I wonder what's the smallest amount you can buy... Hmm...

[primera man]

Originally posted by pkw1



I use a Tamiya Epoxy Putty that comes in a long thin blue box. it has instructions on how to use this stuff inside the box, and i usually start from there....

after hand molding it onto the car, let dry for about 6 hrs or so, then you can shave off extra parts and to detail it more with razor blades, then let dry for another 4-5 hrs and you may sand it down smooth. Tamiya Tooth paste like putty was then used to fill small holes, gaps etc... more sanding after that, then use Mr. Surface liquid putty for the smoothest finish.. sand then prime...

:frog:

Thanks for the info....have yet to really get into that sort of work....but you have given me a few good ideas now !!!!