Biggest transmission cooler the 95-98 will allow

[searcherrr]

Is there enough room to put a 5 3/4" x 11" x 1 1/2" thick cooler in the front radiator?

Currently I have a 5 3/4 x 11 x 3/4" thick cooler in the front, but since I've had a failed water pump and I'm getting a new engine the engine warranty states for me to replace the cooler cause they are prone to getting things stuck in them. Personally I think it could just be power flushed with water (forward and reverse flush) and/or compressed air in the same manner, but I did want to go to a bigger one anyway. Basically I just want to know if the 1 1/2" thickness will fit. I don't have my van with me so thats why I'm asking. lol

Or rather than thicker should I just go WIDER if I want better cooling? It seems more surface area would be cooler at the 3/4" thickness though it may not matter too much... I might be splitting hairs.... though if I could get the 1 1/2" thick one I already know the width dimensions will work.

[wiswind]

The transmission cooler that the engine warranty is referring to would be more likely to be the cooler that is inside the radiator.
FORD TSB# 03-14-8 states that the #1 reason for repeat TRANSMISSION repairs is that contamination that is inside the transmission cooler works it's way back into the new transmission.
They update the cooler cleaning and flushing process to use a system that uses heated ATF and a pulsing action to clean the cooler(s).
They clearly say that NO solvents or chemicals should be used.

Also, in my alldatadiy information, they give a flow test for the cooler(s).
This states that, with the RETURN line from the cooler(s) disconnected and directed into a container, and the transmission in NEUTRAL, engine at idle, the flow rate of fluid out of the return line should be at LEAST 1/2 Liter or 1/2 quart in 30 seconds.

If it is not at that level, they have you remove the line that goes from the transaxle TO the cooler(s) and direct it to a container, and repeat the process.
This verifies that the transmission is providing the correct flow, and then you know for sure that the cooler(s) are blocking the flow.

I sort of keep this flow test "in mind" when I do my yearly transmission fluid exchange.

It is kind of interesting that they mention the transmission cooler in the engine replacement literature, but maybe is is kind of generic information....certainly worth checking the cooler flow as far as the transaxle is concerned.

Now, as for a auxillary cooler (the one in front of the radiator).
FIRST, do my radiator fan test.
The fans MUST be on whenever the A/C is on, when the compressor is engaged or not engaged......the fans are ON at LOW speed and STAY ON.
If they are not, or cycle ON/OFF when the compressor engages (like mine did), then you likley have no low speed operation.
On my vehicle, this was caused by a defected Radiator Fan Low Speed Dropping Resistor.
This is a white (when new) ceramic body resistor that is mounted behind the passenger side headlight....on the metal bumper.
I have a couple of pictures posted in the pictures, that the link in my signature takes you to, that show this resistor.

I place emphasis on this, as your auxillary cooler will only really work well if there is airflow through the radiator....regardless of how big it's cooling capabilities are.
One time that your transmission really heats up is when you are in stop and go traffic.
Having the radiator fans running, which having your A/C on (also defrost and heat settings on my '96), will keep the fans running, and your engine, and in particular, your transmission will be much cooler.

NOW, physical size alone does not determine the cooling capacity of the auxillary cooler.
They are rated by GVW (Gross Vehicle Weight).
The higher the GVW, the higher the cooling capacity of the cooler.
A PLATE AND FIN style of cooler generally provides a higher cooling capacity than Tube and Fin style of cooler of equal physical size.

I seem to think that the Derale brand of cooler that I have is something around a 18000 GVW rating.
I picked that size at the time as I wanted to be extra sure that it would fit.
I could have used a bigger one, and it would have been just fine also.
I have been very happy with mine.
B&M is a good name in Plate and Fin type coolers also.

I am not concerned about "overcooling" the ATF.
I have a synthetic that has a wide range of good flow charactoristics, and there is a small rectangular block that is mounted in the metal lines just after they come out of the transmission, right before the lines go to hoses.
This is a standard factory item (not an optional equipment item).
It is a thermal valve, under about 32 degrees F. the transmission fluid flows out of the transmission, and that block directs the flow right back into the transmission....bypassing the cooler(s).
When the fluid is over that temperature, the flow is directed out through the cooler(s).

One other note, the fins on the front of my radiator (actually the AC condensor) are pretty beat up below the bumber from stones, etc hitting them over the years.
So, instead of mounting my cooler down there, I mounted it up higher, near the top......behind the grill openings that are ABOVE the bumper.
I did this to have better air flow through the unbent fins....and also prevent the fins on my new cooler from being bent up.....and restricting the airflow.

[searcherrr]

Man I'm pretty confused. There is an OE tranny cooler INSIDE OF the radiator?? I thought the engine and tranny SHARED coolant in the radiator? Are you saying there is a separate compartment for TRANNY COOLANT vs ENGINE COOLANT or are the two shared?

So there is an internal tranny cooler in the radiator.... Uggh.. more headache.... and then the one I've added to the OUTSIDE of it. Well the one on the outside of it is the ONLY one I've ever been talking about or knew about till now and is the one the recommend replacing. Always learning.

Good advice about the dropping resistor, but I know that my low speeds are working on my fans.

I was never worried about undercooling either as I figure its not going to be an issue with how hot the van gets, but with that you told me too the rectangular 32 degree block thingy that makes me feel even better about it. My cooler is mounted high up too. I trusted the shop at the time to install one of their choice and told'em that I wanted the biggest they could get me. They put in a 14,500 GVW one. I have had shift issues since then, but I am replacing the TRS and VSS when they do the new engine just for the hell of it cause the problems I've had seem to be TRS related and I have the bobbing speedo needle too..... so likely the VSS. Anyway after doing some reading i see that 18,000 GVW - 24,000 GVW is more a truck/van range and I wanted something bigger anyway after I learned recently they used a 14,500 GVW from my old receipts.

[wiswind]

The coolant does NOT go into the transmission.
ALL windstars have a transmission cooler mounted inside the radiator.
It is actually a "heat exchanger" that uses the coolant to cool the transmission fluid, which is flowing through its own line....with fins.
The transmission cooler is on the passenger side of the radiator, inside the plastic side "tank" and goes from the top to the bottom.
If you remove your radiator cap, it is directly below the opening.

The fluid travels from the transmission to the base of the radiator on the driver's side, and metal tubes carry the fluid across the bottom of the radiator to the passenger side.
Then the metal tubes connect to 'quick connect' fittings, one at the top of the back side of the side tank, and the other to the bottom of the plastic side tank.
The ATF flows IN at the top of the side tank, through the finned cooler inside the radiator, and OUT the bottom of the side tank.

The FORD flushing process should be done anytime the transmission is replaced or "rebuilt" aka major transmission service.
If the in-radiator transmission fails, in that it is restricting the flow of ATF, or leaking into the coolant (or coolant leaking into the ATF), then the repair process is to replace the whole radiator.
The replacement radiator comes with the transmission cooler included, just connect the lines to it and you are done.

If the windstar has the factory towing package, it will still have the standard in-radiator transmission cooler, AND a auxillary transmission cooler that is mounted in front of the radiator, below the bumper.
The ATF will flow through the radiator cooler as I mention above, THEN it will flow through the auxillary cooler, and back to the transmission.

[searcherrr]

Originally Posted by wiswind

The coolant does NOT go into the transmission.
ALL windstars have a transmission cooler mounted inside the radiator.
It is actually a "heat exchanger" that uses the coolant to cool the transmission fluid, which is flowing through its own line....with fins.
The transmission cooler is on the passenger side of the radiator, inside the plastic side "tank" and goes from the top to the bottom.
If you remove your radiator cap, it is directly below the opening.

The fluid travels from the transmission to the base of the radiator on the driver's side, and metal tubes carry the fluid across the bottom of the radiator to the passenger side.
Then the metal tubes connect to 'quick connect' fittings, one at the top of the back side of the side tank, and the other to the bottom of the plastic side tank.
The ATF flows IN at the top of the side tank, through the finned cooler inside the radiator, and OUT the bottom of the side tank.

The FORD flushing process should be done anytime the transmission is replaced or "rebuilt" aka major transmission service.
If the in-radiator transmission fails, in that it is restricting the flow of ATF, or leaking into the coolant (or coolant leaking into the ATF), then the repair process is to replace the whole radiator.
The replacement radiator comes with the transmission cooler included, just connect the lines to it and you are done.

If the windstar has the factory towing package, it will still have the standard in-radiator transmission cooler, AND a auxillary transmission cooler that is mounted in front of the radiator, below the bumper.
The ATF will flow through the radiator cooler as I mention above, THEN it will flow through the auxillary cooler, and back to the transmission.

Thanks Wiswind. I took a break from all this for a while when I sent the van to the shop about 3 weeks ago. I didn't have the factory tow package. EVerything TOW was added after. I had a 14,500lb rated aux cooler installed in front of the radiator towards the top of it I believe a while back. I had bought a larger one for them to put on with the new engine in the past month, but they didn't put it on claiming they didn't think it would fit though they never even opened the box to see and claim the old one is fine.... whereas if something goes wrong it could void my new engine warranty according to warranty terms. Though I'm going to post more about all this in my other thread.

[wiswind]

The cooler you have is a big step up.
From what I have seen, the factory auxillary cooler that is included in the towing package is pretty small....considering that one side of it is for the transmission and the other side is for the power steering.
As you have verified the radiator fan low speed operation, that cooler will be a big help....and, I would guess, just fine....unless you end up pulling far more than you should anyhow.

[searcherrr]

Originally Posted by wiswind

The cooler you have is a big step up.
From what I have seen, the factory auxillary cooler that is included in the towing package is pretty small....considering that one side of it is for the transmission and the other side is for the power steering.
As you have verified the radiator fan low speed operation, that cooler will be a big help....and, I would guess, just fine....unless you end up pulling far more than you should anyhow.

wiswind. Thanks again. I just kept thinking due to how crappy our trannies are that I should go even bigger, but if you say 14,500 is good to go then I'm happy.