*WRITE UP - GSX Brake Conversion*

SilvrEclipse · #1 08-14-2007, 02:47 PM

This is for those of you who need some more stopping power, and don’t have the cash for a big brake set up. Stock brakes fade pretty easy just from hard driving or a few high speed stops. This is a cheap upgrade compared to a big brake kit which can cost $800+. My car needed new brakes anyways so why not upgrade at the same. Unless you have a 94+ awd model your front brakes are single piston calipers with a 10” rotor. We will be upgrading to gsx calipers and rotors which are 2-piston calipers and 10.8” rotors. This will give us about 20% more surface area to stop with. And the larger rotors will help against brake fade.

PARTS:
- 2 piston calipers (You can use calipers from a 94+ gsx, base model 3000gt, and stealth
- Caliper Brackets
- Pad Shims and anti-rattle clips
- GSX Rotors
- GSX Pads
- New Brake lines (Optional)
- NEW brake fluid – I know you slack asses haven’t changed it in years
- Anti-Squeal Grease

* Some calipers come with screw in fittings instead of banjo bolts, single piston calipers use banjo bolts. You can either buy new brake lines with the right fittings; I used lines from a 94 gsx. The banjo bolts fit in the new calipers but you will have to make them shorter to fit.*

1) Loosen lug nuts and jack up the front of the car. Set up your jack stands underneath it and proceed to remove the front tires.

2) Disconnect your brake lines from your calipers. Unbolt the 2 bolts holding the caliper to the bracket and remove the caliper. Remove the other 2 bolts holding the bracket on.

3) Remove the caliper brackets and your old rotors. If they are stuck on it may take some work to remove the rotors. They have bolt holes in them that you can use to push against the hub to push the rotor off. Now you should have some more room to separate the brake lines if you choose to change them. *Be careful not to strip the fittings*

4) Take the cap off the master cylinder and the fluid should drain out of the brake lines, if it doesn’t crank that bitch up and pump the brakes to push all the old fluid out. You might want to have something under the lines to catch the old fluid.
5) Put your new rotors on and bolt the caliper brackets back on, torque to 65ft-lbs.

Put the anti-rattle clips on the brackets and the shims on the new pads and install the new pads. Remember to put grease on all moving/touching metal parts and caliper mounting bolts. Bolt the calipers to the brackets and torque to 54ft-lbs. (Do not touch the face of the brake pads)
NOTE: Caliper bolt with the rubber tip goes on the top.

6) Bolt your brake lines up making sure to use the crush washers if you use banjo fittings. Banjo bolts torque to 11ft-lbs.
7) Pour in the new fluid and start bleeding the brakes. Do all of them if you are replacing the fluid. Start with the back right, then back left, front right then front left.
8) Clean your rotors with brake fluid or alcohol to get any grease or oil off of them.
9) Put your tires back on and let the car down and you’re finished. Make sure you break in the new pads according to the instructions.

Price Comparison Front/Rear

Upgraded Stock
Drilled Rotors - $150
Pbr Xgb pads - $70
New Fluid - $25
Misc. - $15
New Fluid - $25

Total - $260

GSX Conversion
Calipers/Brackets - $100
Drilled Rotors - $180
Pbr Xgb pads - $70
Misc. - $15
Brake lines - $50

Total - $440

Now instead of throwing those old rotors away, clean one of them up and put a nice coat of paint on it. Then go destroy one of your mom’s clocks so you can make this. This is a one of a kind ‘RotorClock’. It will help you keep up with the time and give your house that dsm look.