98 Windstar missing on 2 cylinders

[kitch]

I have tried everything to figure out why the 3.8L in my 98 Windstar is missing on 2 cylinders. I checked the compression 110psi in all three front cylinders. I changed the wire on the working cylinder to the other cylinder that was not working. Yes I did change it on the coil pack too. That did not make a difference. I also change the spark plugs around to see if that was the problem, it wasn't. While the engine is running I took each plug wire off one at a time 5 & 6 clinders did not affect it but number 4 did. Does anyone have any sugestions.

Thanks

Kitch

[SteveNixon]

hi
your best bet would be to go have your codes read. i dont live in the US, but i hear any autozone will read them for free.

Stephen

[kitch]

I did have the codes read it said it was missing on number 6. I am from canada and it cost to have your codes read.

[SteveNixon]

i'm from canada too, and i know it sucks we have to pay. anyways, ever cleaned your EGR ports? that is definetly a common problem with the winnies. if all other ports are clogged (cylinders 1-4), all the flow will be going into cylinder 5 & 6, causing a missfire.

[kitch]

I did not know that I will have to try that if I knew what it meant. Can you tell me what it means and where it is.


rob

[SteveNixon]

take a look at this site
http://www.cartrackers.com/Forums/live/fordwindstar/

and click onsearch, and then type in "EGR". be prepared for the amount of info.

where abouts in canada do you live?

[kitch]

I live in thunder bay ontario.

[kitch]

I cleaned all the egr ports and changed the front 3 plug wires. I took the negative off for a few min. I put the negative back on and stated the van the engine light was off and did not come back on thanks to this site I fixed the problem for about $90.00 canadian and about 3hrs of time.

Thanks
rob

[SteveNixon]

hey rob

i'm glad you were able to solve your problem. It's definetly a common trouble with the windstars, which i'm sure you saw with your search.

stephen

p.s. i'm in winnipeg

[DRW1000]

HI fellow Canucks...........I'm form Toronto. I just wanted to jump in to say:

"1) it is a lot of money to have the codes read. I purchased my own code reader from Canadian Tire for $199. So it pays for itself after 2 to 3 uses. It is good foe any OBD11 vehicle which covers 1996 and up. I recommend it."
"2) The EGR cleaning is a good idea and definately could cause your misfire. The light will shut off when you disconnect the battery lead. It will take a few drive cycles to really know for sure if you solved the problem."
"3) Go Leafs"

[kitch]

The engine light has not come on since, but I am going to change the egr vavle, the coil pack and the rest of the wires as well. I have read about a dpfe sensor can anyone tell me were it is on the van 3.8l.

[DRW1000]

On my 99 the DPFE is right at the front of the engine. It is a grey box (new ones are black plastic) about 4" X 2". There is a 3 wire electrical connector and 2 rubber hoses that go to the EGR tube. It is attached to the Intake manifold if I remeber correctly. These are prone to fail but normally provide an error code. They are also easily tested and I would not replace unless nessesary. If you have a Haynes the test procedure is included. If not search this forum. I had a problem with my DPFE and I posted my test and my results around April of this year.

By the way the DPFE provides feedback to the PCM about the flow through the EGR.

You should also be able to test the EGR. The simplest way is to provide vacuum on the EGR at idle and see if the engine stalls out. Again I would not replace this unless it needed to be.

Normally EGR system failures provide an error code and CEL so if your light is out you probably do not have a problem.

[kitch]

I bought the haynes book and did the test for the dpfe sensor it stayed the same it changed about 0.3. It start at 0.96 and went to 1.30 this is not right. I even took it down the highway to get the temp. way up then brought it back and tested it again same reading 1.26 to 1.30. It did not increase to 5.0 like the book said. Plus there was no vacuum that I could feel out of the line that opens the egr valve. I can manually move the valve with some hose and man power, but I could not stall the van. It would hesitate while doing it that is all. I got the right reading on the ref. side of the dpfe but not the sig. side. Could this cause the van to idle rough and miss on #6. Also when I take the neg. off for a few min. and replace it the cel is off and the engine idiles perfect no lopes. Engine sits smooth???? But when the cel comes on after a few days the engine starts running rough???? This has me puzzled I know it is a sensor that is doing it but which one. I also changed all the plug wires. I checked the tps it is working fine according to the tests in the book. I also checked the coil pack since I had everything off and found the front two (4,3) have a reading of 13.5 approx. and the next two (6,2)13.1. I don't think they are suppose to be different. Maybe I am getting a week spark on 5 and 6, 6 being the worst. I have a new coil pack coming in. I know this is long but I am puzzled and it may help other winnie owners. PLEASE HELP

[DRW1000]

The EGR should be closed at idle and thus you will not get much of a reading on the DPFE. DId you measure the voltage while manually opening the EGR valve?

The ref voltage is the 5 volt the PCM uses to power the sensors.

You may have clogged EGR ports. Perhaps more flow is going to the misfiring cylinders causing them to misfire.

[kitch]

I have cleaned the egr ports. Also yes I was taking a reading while opening the egr and the samething. So the dpfe is not working I am guessing. Also all the mechanics are stumped do to why the motor runs smooth when I set the pcm back to zero when taking off the neg. I will try again tonight on it I spent all day yesterday on I was almost tempted to take the valve cover off and tighten down the head bolts a little just in case blow head casket.