stereo help!!!

[sxylilaccent791026]

i know this is a double thread but i figure the more help the better all options are welcome.
ok so heres the story... back in March some little brats on power trips decided to smash in my vent window destroy my dash and take of with my CD player. ok speed ahead current times window is fixed dash is repaired and i have a new cd player. the problem is the wires dont match anywhere. i CANNOT afford to take it some where so if anyone on here has the wiring schematics for a 2001 Hyundai Accent please drop me an e-mail at

[email protected]
subject: car stereo

or drop me a post on here. Please help im tired of listening to road noise and my kids are tired of my renditions of ABC and Patty cake. I am mechanicly inclined as i fixed the window and dash. just need schematics for the radio. thanks

[zagrot]

there's no need for a wire diagram. if you were luckey enough that the vandals unpluged the previous radio just get an adapter (hundai -> whatever brand head unit you bought), or if my asumption is correct you were left with a mass of butchered wires. in the last case everything is relatively easy to sort out if you have a voltmeter. first you'll want to identify two wires, ign. power, and B+ (if aplicable, you maw want to check that the radio fuse is still good before searching for this wire). first get a good chassis ground and set your voltmeter to a range above 12v, probably 20 will be on the meter, if not 50 (if your meter autoranges it is not a problem). next probe all of the wires for 12v with the ignition off, if you find one label it B+. next turn the ignition on and probe the remaining wires for 12v, there should be at least one, label it IGN. you'll also want to find a ground, use the continuity function to probe the remaining wires untill you get a low resistance value or the meter beeps. if you have a particuarly expensive meter (or borrowed one) you'll probably want to disconnect the car's battery for this test, as most meters are dammaged by supply voltage on the probe while set to measure resistance or continuity. lable this wire GND.

now for the speakers; you should have eight wires remaining (unless you have a power antenna or other such features) assuming that there are four speakers (or sets of speakers, sometimes there will be a componet speaker arangement like a midrange and tweeter in separate places, but on the same channel. chances are that they are wired in paralell and only have two wires going to the head unit rather than four as might be expected). if not there should be two for each channel. having access to the front of the speakers will be desireable as will be seen later, but not absolutely required, having access to the rear would be decidedly helpfull, maybe you can see the ones in the rear parcel shelf from inside the trunk.

ok, onward and upward. *note: the next procedure will dammage tweeters, if you have them replace "battery" with "continuity meter."

you'll need to identify whether you have a set of tweeters or not, if not then the task is simplified, just get a 1.5v battery (AA, C, or D) and attach some leads to the end. hold one lead on one of the remaining wires and and touch the other to all of the remaining 7 wires. when you have a match you'll hear one of the speakers crackle (or a low reading with the continuity meter, somewhere around 8 - 16 ohms) now label the pair to match the designated speaker (FL, FR, RL, RR) and repaeat the procedure untill you have identified all of the remaining speakers. now, if you don't have tweeters, have an assistant watch the cone of a selected speaker while you attach the leads from the battery to the speaker leads. if the cone moves toward the passenger compartment then mark the polarity as the battery was attached (+ from the wire attached to the battery's positive lead, - for the battery's negative lead) if the cone moves away form the passenger compartment the polarity was reversed. if there is no visible cone movement you may need to use a 9v battery, or maybe another 1.5v cell in serise with the first. again, if you have tweeters applying DC voltage to the speaker lead is a quick way to damage them, so checking the back side of the speaker and noting the wire color is the safest way to determine polarity (the polarity will probably be marked on the speaker terminals). also note that you'll want to apply voltage *just* long enough to see the cone move, and no longer, to be safe. the average cone type speaker can handle DC voltage rather well, but why push it? i'd advise that you don't leave them hooked to the battery for more than 5 seconds at a time.

[INF3RN0666]

I cannot explain it any better than zagrot did. Good job man.

I just wanted to tell you that I feel your pain. Some dumb idiots, most likely the kids in my hood, stole my deck also. I was dumb enough to forget the face plate on for that one night. They must have been scouting my car :P. So the retards actually ripped out the deck while the car was off. They must have not noticed the flashing red light with the message "if light is blinking, the stereo is locked". So basically, they stole a useless deck and even if they returned it to me, it's now useless. Most decks these days have theft protection, but your average criminal isn't getting any smarter. The even left my car door open and drained my battery...

[sxylilaccent791026]

id just like to say thanks to everyone who helped all the suggestions where great i now have a cd player that works in my car again and everyone is happy.