t-belt change time

[lude speed]

So I was going to change my dad's t-belt on his 00 Rodeo. How hard is it or is it better to pay someone else to do it? How much is it for the belt, valve cover gasket, and everything vs. paying someone?

[amigo-2k]

how many miles does it have on the truck?

Typically it is recommended you change the belt, timing belt tensor and water pump all at the same time.

Many have reported changing belts at 100-150k and the belts still look good. Personally, I'm waiting until 120k and then changing it. I figure if it needs to be done again it will be done by the next owner. So if you are not over at least 100k and don't tow a lot or offroad a lot I wouldn't worry about it yet.

If it does snap (I can only think of 2-3 reports of +98 snapping belts over the last 8 years) there will be no damage due to the engine is non interference.

All the info above is about the 3.2L isuzu engine not the 2.2L gm engine.

[Cat Fuzz]

It's not difficult if you do things properly. It's good to change it before it breaks so you can simply mark the belt and pulleys, slip the old belt off and then transfer the marks to the new belt and reinstall. No messing with lining up timing marks this way. I use silver Sharpies for marking. I also use nylon wire ties to hold the belt in place while I get the rest lined up, then cut them off when the belt is where it needs to be. The Rodeo 3.2L v-6 is actually one of the easiest timing belts I've done.

[lude speed]

It's got abou 102K miles. It's the Isuzu 3.2 V6 model. Yeah I was going to try to do the tenisor and water pump as well. We just want to go ahead and do it and get it over with to be on the safe side. I can preach all day about an H or F-series Honda motor but I'm kind've a noob to the specifics of these Isuzus. Doesn't sound too difficult. Thanks for the help guys!

[surferfletch]

I found it to be just time consuming. The marks are very clear. The toughest part was getting the crank bolt off, but there are tricks to get it off. Pay attention to which timing cover bolts go where. I think they are different lengths.

[lude speed]

10-4.

[XR400R]

Well, I just did it twice this weekend to an '01 Passport (which is same as a Rodeo).

I tried to simply transfer the new belt to the pulleys without going throught the procedure of lining up the marks on pulleys with marks on head/oil pump and marks on belt. It didn't work. I apparently got the new belt one tooth off and didn't realize it. When I got it all back to gether & tried to start it, it wouldn't run.

So I tore it all apart again, and re-installed the timing belt the way the OEM manual says to do it. Moving the cam/crank cogs to the proper marks on the head/oil pump, and installing the belt so the marks on the new belt line up with the proper timing marks on the pulleys. Then it worked fine & started right up. I recommend following the procedure.

While you are in, you really should replace the water pump and the tensioner assembly. Some folks have difficulty removing the crank bolt (24mm) & do that by wedging a breaker bar on the frame rail on driver side then bump the motor with the starter. I have a pump and impact gun & I found this removed it easily. An impact gun will easily fit between the bolt and the radiator without removing the radiator.

All of the timing cover bolts were the same length with the exception of one up high which is actually a stud and the bolts that hold the fan bracket on.

It took me about 3.5 hrs to do the job the first time, then about 1.5-2 hrs to completely re-do it after it wouldn't start.

As to cost, I got all parts from RockAuto and the belt cost=$40 (Dayco); Tensioner/idler pulley set cost=$102 (Dayco); water pump =$75(Dayco new); 1 gal antifreeze from Wal-Mart $5. That was it. I meant to also change the pusher unit part of the tensioner assembly, but I expected it to come with the tensioner assembly I ordered and it did not, so I had to reuse the original pusher. Not a good idea. If you get a pusher, which you should, it will cost about $88 from PartsTrain.com.

If you do reuse the pusher like I did, you will have to compress it & insert a pin in it before you can reinstall. I used a big C-clamp to compress it and used a big sewing needle as pin retainer. That worked out well both times. It takes about 200 lbs of force to compress it.

Good luck!

[surferfletch]

Are you going to get a new tensioner?

[lude speed]

Originally Posted by surferfletch

Are you going to get a new tensioner?

Yes.

[surferfletch]

I ordered and it did not, so I had to reuse the original pusher. Not a good idea. If you get a pusher, which you should, it will cost about $88 from PartsTrain.com

Are you going to get a new tensioner?

[XR400R]

Originally Posted by surferfletch

Are you going to get a new tensioner?

I probably won't. The original was really (I mean REALLY) strong when I removed/compressed/reinstalled it, so I'll probably just wait till it fails to replace it. Not sure how much longer I'll keep this buggy anywho (120K miles already - I see a Cayman S in my future).

I've been through all the usual Rodeo/Passport issues with this veh. Clunking driveline; failed relay on intermittent wiper control board; knocking like crazy on high-test due to totally plugged EGR tube through the intake plenum (what a stupid design!), having to tear the entire intake system apart just to replace a $3 thermostat (another world-class stupid design!), etc. Fixed 'em all. Arrrggg! Tired of fooling with with it every weekend!