1994 Chevrolet Blazer 200k miles v6 Vortec Not Accelerating?

[CursedBLazer]

My blazer will not accelerate well at all. It will slowly and I mean slowly accelerate. I could probably smoke it off the line by foot. It sputters, stalls, backfires, and reaches only 3 thousand rpms on the dash. It seems to eat a gallon of gas per mile. With a horrible gas smell on the inside. And is just killing me in repair bills. This is what I have replaced from what mechanics say will conquer this problem. I have replaced the whole exhaust. High flow cat and walker muffler. New EGR. New AC Delco wires w/ autolite double platinum plugs(APP25). Last week, I replaced the spider injectors, plenum gasket, and fuel pressure regulator. The pricely mechanics after diagnosing suggests(ignition coil, ignition module, timing chain jump, new fuel pump.) If anyone knows how to fix or had this stalling, no accelertion slash backfiring problem, gas smell, please respond. I seem to be getting broke and annoyed by this problem and these mechanics.

[burnchassis3]

Check the MAF mass air flow meter.. I just posted about this in another post.
I just went through the same issues...Start your Blazer open the hood ,and while its running unplug the MAF ,and try to drive it If you have power ,THATS the problem...you can leave it unplugged untill you can fix it with no isses from that.
If there is no change ,the MAF is not the problem.
CS

Originally Posted by CursedBLazer

My blazer will not accelerate well at all. It will slowly and I mean slowly accelerate. I could probably smoke it off the line by foot. It sputters, stalls, backfires, and reaches only 3 thousand rpms on the dash. It seems to eat a gallon of gas per mile. With a horrible gas smell on the inside. And is just killing me in repair bills. This is what I have replaced from what mechanics say will conquer this problem. I have replaced the whole exhaust. High flow cat and walker muffler. New EGR. New AC Delco wires w/ autolite double platinum plugs(APP25). Last week, I replaced the spider injectors, plenum gasket, and fuel pressure regulator. The pricely mechanics after diagnosing suggests(ignition coil, ignition module, timing chain jump, new fuel pump.) If anyone knows how to fix or had this stalling, no accelertion slash backfiring problem, gas smell, please respond. I seem to be getting broke and annoyed by this problem and these mechanics.

[CursedBLazer]

Well there was no change. But I did notice, at the bottom of the boots on my sparkplug wires were all bubbled and melted. New AC Delco plugs too. I imagine this is one of the problems. I'm now trying to figure out why these are melting. My neighbor suggested I might be missing a heat shield. I have no idea what that is exactly even called or where to look.

[sector95]

200k.....think about that for a moment..... Okay, if this were my truck I wouldn't waste any more of my time and money trying to fix an engine past its useful life. Check the replacement GM crate engines and you'll probably find the cost of a new, factory motor isn't much more than what you've already shelled out.....even if you have a shop install it. Jasper engines and transmissions has a good rep for rebuilt engines and trannies...check them out online for your local dealer/retailer.

mike

[old_master]

Sounds like your "mechanic" is a guesser. A few more guesses and you'll have all new parts and it's gotta run! You need to find a technician, not a mechanic, a parts replacer or a guesser, to diagnose and repair your vehicle properly.

Does the "Service Engine Soon" light work? If it does, is it on? If it's on, what codes are stored?

Unless your Blazer was built by Ford, lose the Autolite plugs and use AC Delco platinums...ONLY. Connect a fuel pressure gauge to the service port. Turn the key to the RUN position, (don't start the engine) fuel pressure must be a minimum of 60psi when the pump is running. After approximately 2 to 3 seconds, the fuel pump will shut off and fuel pressure must remain above 55psi for several minutes. Post back with your results.

[06camarodude]

Originally Posted by sector95

200k.....think about that for a moment..... Okay, if this were my truck I wouldn't waste any more of my time and money trying to fix an engine past its useful life. Check the replacement GM crate engines and you'll probably find the cost of a new, factory motor isn't much more than what you've already shelled out.....even if you have a shop install it. Jasper engines and transmissions has a good rep for rebuilt engines and trannies...check them out online for your local dealer/retailer.

mike

Good advice, but being the owner of (2) 210,000 mile + GM V6 vehicles, I must say that there are other ways of getting these engines to perform like new. A decent mechanic's shop will only charge you about $900-$1,200 to do a full engine rebuild, including parts and labor. You can rebuild, swap in a different engine, or fix the problem at hand to buy yourself a couple thousand more miles. The problem you are describing sounds to me like an ignition problem. I would suggest doing a full tune up, and also change the distributor cap and rotor, a lot of people forget about these parts, and even tune-up shops often don't include them in the basic tune-up service. Change the wires, plugs, cap, rotor, oil, oil filter, air filter, fuel filter, and any other part that is supposed to be changed every 3,000-100,000 miles, and change it. Only thing I can think of that couldn't be fixed is if you fried a piston ring or something, which would cause symptoms such as lost compression, decreased oil pressure, "chugging"/hesitating, low gas mileage, and A LOT of smoke. Keep us posted, and we'll keep trying to help pinpoint your problem.

BTW, I have a 1994 4.3 V6 Sonoma with 210,000 miles and a 1994 3.4 V6 Camaro with 273,000 miles, and neither of them have had any problems, so the "predicted useful lifespan" of the motor doesn't really mean much to me, of course my extensive experience with engines throughout my life has led me to know what is and what isn't repairable in the way of GM motors. . .