1995 Cherokee Sport loses power above 3000 rpm

Katalina · #1 11-10-2006, 02:36 PM

1995 Jeep Cherokee Sport, above 3000 rmp boggs on acceleration. Had hesitation on acceleration when getting on freeway etc, now just a little slow. Cat and muffler et/all replaced, Distributor, cap,rotor, spark plug wires replaced. Mech. now wants to replace fuel filter. Problems started when jeep just died when driving a good clip down the road. Any ideas 182,000. No major problems before this.

Katalina · #2 11-10-2006, 02:42 PM

1995 Jeep Cherokee Sport, just posted this problem and have changed title. New to forum, would appreciate help.

fredjacksonsan · #3 11-10-2006, 03:05 PM

First of all, Welcome to AF. I merged your threads for you, no reason to start 2.

Is it just over 3000rpm? Does it occur in every gear?

I'm thinking that it dying on the highway might indicate a throttle position sensor is bad.

Katalina · #4 11-10-2006, 03:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fredjacksonsan

First of all, Welcome to AF. I merged your threads for you, no reason to start 2.

Is it just over 3000rpm? Does it occur in every gear?

I'm thinking that it dying on the highway might indicate a throttle position sensor is bad.

The car is in the shop, AT, I drove it around the block seemed "heavy" but OK, the mech. accelerated at a stand still up above 3000rmp and it hesitated badly. After the above noted work, on machine tested low fuel pressure or the like and that is why they feel the fuel pump. But not sure. I mentioned CPS, and TPS...and they tell me they didn't get an indication of failure. It looks like they are doing a process of elimination. Before it died on the road it was running great. After the distributor was replaced was when I got the hesitation on acceleration and on from there.

fredjacksonsan · #5 11-10-2006, 03:36 PM

I'd look to the distributor, if it was running fine prior to the change. Why was it replaced?

Katalina · #6 11-10-2006, 03:41 PM

That is what the last mech. whom I had the Jeep towed to thought it was. Then he thought it was the cat. converter. It's at another shop now they have checked out the distributor, replace the cap, rotor (again, one point was messed up after a short period of time). Spark plug wires because they looked original. Now they want to do the fuel pump..because of the reading from the computer.

fredjacksonsan · #7 11-10-2006, 03:45 PM

Well, if it's not getting enough fuel that could cause the problem. Not enough air, also. How is the air filter?

Replacing the fuel filter would be a good start; I think the pump is in the tank so that will be a bit more.

The upside of all these repairs is that you'll be good to go for another 100K after they're done.

Katalina · #8 11-10-2006, 03:51 PM

I will check with them as far as the air filter and fuel filter to see if they have checked them. Another 100,000, I sure hope so, this has been very frustrating. What about the TPS, EGR valve, I had read a recent post.

Katalina · #9 11-10-2006, 04:46 PM

I just stopped by the auto repair shop. They said they checked the air and fuel filter. As they were pulling it into the shop after part arrived..before lunch break..they continued to see a long crank?? start, and are now wondering if it is the fuel filter after all and will check ..other things after lunch?? Don't know what to expect.

Dale Aeppli · #10 11-10-2006, 05:27 PM

Have you had the fuel pressure checked with gauge. Turn key on and listen to hear if you can hear fuel pump click on [email protected]
Dale

Katalina · #11 11-10-2006, 06:00 PM

Yes, that it why they wanted to replace it.

Katalina · #12 11-10-2006, 06:05 PM

I'm not a mechanic. They want to replace the fuel Pump which is inside the gas tank,(not fuel filter, which they checked).

At this hour they are checking on a few other possibilites and re-thinking the fuel pump

wagonbldr · #13 11-17-2006, 04:25 PM

Hey Ya'll,
New to the site. I have seen a similar issue with the distributor being the culprit. Bushings had worn to the point that the distributor shaft deflected enough to throw off the ignition signal. That would explain the one messed up point. If the shaft moved enough to allow the rotor button to come in contact with one point on the cap.

Katalina · #14 11-20-2006, 02:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wagonbldr

Hey Ya'll,
New to the site. I have seen a similar issue with the distributor being the culprit. Bushings had worn to the point that the distributor shaft deflected enough to throw off the ignition signal. That would explain the one messed up point. If the shaft moved enough to allow the rotor button to come in contact with one point on the cap.

Problem resolved: After must hair loss/and troubleshooting the Auto Shop pulled out the newly replaced distributor (that they had questioned being replaced in the first place by another shop), and found the it was off two teeth. They repositioned distributor and the hesitation is gone!!!

I will try to address this problem ($$) with the last shop, again. His first reaction with the hesitation after he replaced the distributor and sent it to the muffler shop for cat conv and tail pipe was "I got it going". This is why I took it to another shop.

I'm going to sell this Jeep, located in Sebastopol, CA. if you know anyone interested. It's been a great Jeep before this problem upon problem.

Katalina · #15 11-20-2006, 02:59 PM

Distributor was put in wrong, off two teeth. Hesitation on acceleration is gone. See previous thread. Thank you all for your input.

EDIT: I merged your threads...
Thanks Wagon for your input...
Aloha...BRAHDA..

POST REPLY TO THIS THREAD