Cant Start My Talon...

[FastTalon]

A few days ago i drove my talon back to my house, i parked it on my driveway and went home for a few minutes. when i came back my talon didnt start. after a few more cranks it started, but the problem persisted, when i tried to start the car, the rpms go up to a 1000 and then fall down and the car stalls. is it somethin in the ignition or electrical system? i checked the fuel pump and the sparkplugs but nothin seems to work. does anyone have any suggestions?

[1992talon]

Alright u are going to love this. My talon done this same thing. I had to get a new computer but for a temporary fix move your gas line dealy that controls ur idle up. Sorry i also put a new o2 sensor on and full exhaust

[FastTalon]

Hey thanks! Can u explain more in detail to me how to make it work temporarily? also, do u know if i have to buy a new computer or i can get one from a used talon? Thanks again!!!

[1992talon]

aight now this is no mechanic talkin so it may be hard to understand sorry
there is a wire coming up to the back of ur cfm i believe it is called(round thing behind block towards the firewall) there is to bolts on it loosen them and pick up ur idle like i said it only works for a while then it will die at stop lights and everyother bad place i believe they said i burnt a selinoid sending unit not for sure i believe a used one should work mine was 200 dollars now i am after a tcu for my car

Hope this helps

[FastTalon]

it is kinda complicated i thinks its easier to get the ecu from ebay or somethin . i hope its the ecu. thanks for ur help again

[MrZ]

FastTalon;
Perhaps you can find an ECM (or ECU) at E-Bay, but you really would want to be sure that's what's wrong before you go spending the money, right?

I'm probably sounding like a broken record here, but get the Haynes manual for your year talon, and with it you will have the information you need to check the ECM for fault codes. There is a code for a bad unit, as well as a host of other codes which indicate exactly what sensors or switches are malfunctioning. The only other thing you will need to check the codes is a voltmeter. A mutli-meter would be the best thing to purchase, they aren't that expensive (less than $20, unless you want to get a really good one, which you don't need), because it would also have an ohmeter built in, which you can use to check sensors, and even spark plug wires for resistance.

If the ECM tests out bad, you can send it down to an outfit in Texas where they repair them. It's a couple hundred dollars, but they warrant their repairs for one year. Let me know if you're interested in that, if so, I'll find a link and paste it for you.

Mark

[MrZ]

FastTalon;
Here's a link to ECM World. I got one through them a year or so ago. They don't show their prices on line, but it's as easy as calling a toll free number to find out. There is another outfit in Texas called ECM's to go, and I saw there is a place in California too. You can find these places by putting ECM, Eagle Talon into a search such as google or ask Jeeves, or whatever you usually use.

Good luck

Mark

[FastTalon]

before my talon broke down , my check engine light came on and i went to a mechanic and he tested my car . he said that it was a faulty egr valve and egr solenoid , after that ive been driving my car for at least 3 months before it broke down. i already have the manual ur talking about but it doesnt provide a lot of infro on troubleshooting , its not very specific. do u think my car broke down because of the egr system??? Im really confused now

[MrZ]

FastTalon;
Actually, I think it a bit odd that both the EGR valve and the solenoid would be bad, but it is possible. I tend to think (just a hunch) that the fault code your mechanic found indicated it was either the valve or the solenoid, not necessarily both of them.

The EGR valve recirculates exhaust through the intake manifold, but not at all times. That's where the solenoid comes in. The solenoid is connected to the vacuum system, it allows exhaust gas to recirulate through the engine at certain rpms and load conditions. The solenoid actually only allows vacuum to reach the EGR valve during these times, which causes the valve to open and recirculate the exhaust.

So, if the solenoid is bad, it could be allowing vacuum to the EGR when it shouldn't. Or, if the valve is bad, it might not be seating properly, which would allow it to recirculate exhaust when it shouldn't. The diaphram in the EGR valve can also tear or fail which would cause you to loose vacuum. All of the above would cause the engine to run poorly, and to idle roughly. It would probably also make the car difficult to start.

I tend to believe that the solenoid would be the problem. I honestly don't think the ECM knows whether or not the EGR valve is actually opening, or if it isn't seating, or if the diaphram is ruptured. It does control the solenoid, and the solenoid gives it feedback via voltage levels or resistance, so that's why I tend to think it is the solenoid that may be faulty. It if is the solenoid, it may not be letting the EGR valve open at all, which really wouldn't hurt anything at all.

You should get this problem fixed, it does effect the emissions the car produces, and could cause you to fail an emission test. Also, as long as the problem exists, you won't know whether or not there are any other problems with your car, because you'll think the check engine light is only coming on becuase of the EGR problem.

Mark

[stupidsm]

This may sound stupid, but have you checked to make sure your battery is fully charged? DSM's get pretty crazy with a low battery.

[Obearly]

I second what 1992talon told you.....my '95 Talon is in the shop today getting a new ECM because it was doing the same thing. It would squeal upon start up..continued to die....wouldn't start back up.....replaced the fuel relay (3 times it kept burning it up), fuel pump, fuel sensor, crank shaft relay & crank sensor..........$$$$$$ later now find out it was a bad ECM... cost me $ 252.00 for the replacement ECM and because it was so difficult to diagnose they didn't charge me any labor and paid for the last three tows. I pick it up today. I would recommend having it checked to be sure. Best of luck

[Stage5]

My personal opinion? Here are some options if it isn't the ECM... And this is great info for anyone with starting issues...
Check your Battery. Cold Cranking Amps for the 91-94 is different than what Wal-Mart or Auto Zone will tell you. They all recommend one of the SMALLEST batteries for your car, 450 CCA. However, it is a REAL recommendation to go with at least a 525 CCA. I use a 750 CCA, with brass terminals, and filed the crap off my connectors. I had similar issues, and this worked. The way to find out if this is your problem, is to see if it cranks and holds when jumping your battery off another car's battery.
Next, check your coil packs. Make sure they are delivering the correct resistance. If only one is good, then good luck starting it. You can only buy them as a pair, and it is cheapest to get it from O'Reillys. NOTE: The version you get will be marked for a Hyundai, don't worry, that company uses the same one we use. This is around $130 +
Also, check the resistance for your Power Transistor. It tells which coil pack should be sparking to which cylinder. If this is not good, check Auto Zone for a replacement. O'Reillys and Advanced Auto do not carry this part. $146 after tax.
Check your plug wires and plugs next. Standard wires carry up to 26000 ohms of resistance. Accell 300+ Thundersports are 150 ohms per foot. Invest! You can eBay for about $40.
Plugs are a HUGE issue in the starting of your car. Just TRYING to start it can foul them to the point where it won't even start after replacing everything else. After being certian that all else is good, replace them anyway. Even if they were brand new when you started diagnosing. Avoid Bosch plugs. They just don't work well with our cars, and foul out quick.
Starter replacement is costly. $106 for the starter or $42 for the solenoid only. Here is a hint, take your starter where it can be tested outside the car before deciding which to replace. It may be cheaper to do the solenoid, but you can't take it back, and the starter replacement comes with one. So you may be buying an extra for nothing. Check it first!
Your fuel pump could be an issue. Here is how to visually see the pump in action. Remove the 3 retaining nuts to your fuel rail and carefully lift the injectors out of their ports. Have someone crank the car. You can then see the if the injectors are rotating their spray evenly. You are looking for a couple of things... whether the spray is even from one injector to the next, and whether the injectors are firing in order (you may have to concentrate to watch the order of the spray, this happens quickly). If there is a problem, you can back track from there, eliminating your injectors, fuel rail, regulator, fuel filter, and pump in one shot.
To check the pump specifically, refer to your manual on using the pump check connector located just behind the battery on the fire wall.
Here's a catcher that gets a lot of people... your safety switch at the top of your clutch pedal. It isn't the switch you should look at. There is a plunger on the switch that should meet against a small plastic stopper. That stopper is notorious for breaking. Disconnect the switch, and remember that you can start it now without pressing in the clutch pedal.
ECM!!!!!!!! Quick lesson and cheaper! Get one from a junk yard that will warranty to at least work. Replace yours with it and try it. If there is no difference, return the ECM to the yard and only pay a restocking fee in most cases (Usually 20%), and the ECM shouldn't be more than $135.
ECM codes! You can email me with the code or codes brought up, and I can tell you what they are for. Any questions about what codes mean can be eliminated this way. And you can feel sure that SOMEONE out there will tell you what they are and WON'T be looking for money. Otherwise, get a manual and read it. It can tell you also, and you see it for yourself.
Other things to check..... real quick, this is getting long....
Replace the MPI relay!
Replace the Ignition and MPI fuses!
Reset your CAS! It may be 180 degrees off!
Check your timing! The timing belt tension adjuster may be out. It is controlled with a very small seal that likes to break, and can throw off your balance shafts and timing.
Check your idle adjustment. There is a way to adjust your idle with the BISS on your throttle body and eliminate the computer from controlling it at the same time!
Check your compression! It should read somewhere around 145.
I don't mind answering any questions, just email me. And feel free to refer this post to anyone with starting issues. If nothing else, maybe others can learn from this. These are all starting issues, and I don't think I missed anything.
Thanks!

[caniborrow50cnts]

well, in a string of bad luck, I am now to the point where my talon won't start. First of all, dont buy wal-mart's douglas tires. I had a blowout after 19,000 miles cause the tread was totally gone. When the tire blew, i lost control since i was turning when it happened. I hit a curb and bent one of my rims. I went ahead and bought a new set of rims and tires and thats when i noticed my strut was bent. A day later, my CV joint snaps. It broke at the boot where those three pegs are. While I was slowing down, those pegs kept pounding a hole in the side of my transmission. After 10 hours of working on it, i was able to replace the tranny and CV joint. When everything is back together, I went to start it and it just turns but doesnt start. My timing belt is still intact. I replaced the spark plugs and wires. Each plug is producing a powerful spark. I HAVE GAS IN THE TANK (and people for some reason mention that to me first). The battery is fully charged. Anyone got any clues? For your info though, its a 1992 Eagle Talon, 2.0L, automatic non-turbo. Please any help is appreciated.

[Stage5]

Don't go buying a starter for $104 at Auto Zone yet!
2 things to check. You pulled the tranny, right? That means you disconnected and removed the starter. Make sure all your connections are good at the starter. Check that ground that just slips on. Mayby take a file (emery board from WalMart in cosmetics works perfect) and clean the connections. Then check your connections at the battery and clean them up too. On the 92, you have 2 ground wires at your battery and there are 3 positive connections. Clean the positive connection plates really well, and get the brass battery terminal connectors at WalMart for a couple of bucks each.
Second thing... you are a fan of WalMart... not a bad thing. But is your battery an EverStart? If so, there isn't enough cranking amps. 450 or 475 won't cut it. Do yourself a favor, get the 700 CCA Maxx. It's around $59.95.
I am guessing that you can hear clicks when you turn the key? Should be another after turning the key off from under your dash too. If that's the case, your solenoid is trying to engage, but the power to turn the flywheel just isn't there. Check your connections first, then get back to me.

[Stage5]

You don't have to adjust them in most cases. You can go through my list of options just before your first post and check off everything you know is good. Fire is good, and you say fuel is good. Take each spark plug out and put it on the end of your spark plug wire. Check to see that you still get good spark through the plug. While it's out, check the gap too. This will eliminate the spark plugs.