Tune up tips?

goaliegod · 09-25-2006, 09:21 PM

Well, it looks like my original theory that my SES light problems were related to my MAF has been disproven. I'm going to try to change plugs and wires now, and see if that doesn't help.

As I'm sure you all know, it's close quarters between the 3800 engine and the firewall. Does anyone have any good tips for getting at the plugs and wires back there? A tech diagram like those Bob was able to provide in my other thread would be ideal.

Thanks in advance,

Bry

BNaylor · 09-26-2006, 07:08 AM

I'm not aware of any tech pocedures so you'll just have to do the best you can. The rear plugs are a PITA but doable with the right spark plug tools.

My first tip is patience. Next tip is do not remove the dogbone engine mounts and tilt the engine to try to get extra clearance. The hardest part is removing the metal shields and plug boots. It is up to you but to get at plugs #4 and #6, it may be easier to remove the 02 sensor on the downpipe and the bracket that holds the 02 sensor wiring harness that mounts to the exhaust manifold. Since you are installing new wires you may have to cut or damage the old ones but thats no big deal. Also, use proper lighting like a drop lamp so you can see better.

These are the tools I use. The spark plug ratchet is specially made for plug removal.

During plug installation make sure you use anti-seize compound on the plug threads. Also, dielectric silicone grease on the inside of the plug boots or on the ceramic part of the plug.

richtazz · 09-26-2006, 11:45 AM

I agree with bnaylor on the boot heat shields being the biggest issue. I use tools similar to what he has pictured, and used a long handled pair of needle nose pliers to get the boots off. I wasn't concerned about damaging the old wire boots, because I was replacing the wires anyway. I also second that there is no need to roll the engine forward, it really doesn't gain you anything on this vehicle.

BNaylor · 09-26-2006, 12:19 PM

Yeah Rich speaking of tilting the engine. One of my GP acquaintances locally decided to do that and he had a hell of a time getting the dogbone mounts back into position. It took three of us to manhandle it. The next day he started complaining about a knocking sound. Sounded like someone was knocking on the bottom of the undercarriage. It turns out the force of the engine moving forward bent his exhaust downpipe into a position where is was rubbing on the undercarriage. Then we had to take a prybar to the exhaust for clearance.

Someone told him it would speed up the process of changing the rear plugs. Yeah, right!

richtazz · 09-26-2006, 01:00 PM

I have a tilter tool, and it does help on older W-bodies with the 3.1 Vin-T, but is of no use on the 97-03 body style. Even with the tool you still have to use common sense. You can break mounts if you try to move it too far. I know of people that have tried the "set parking brake, put car in gear" method of moving it forward, and put the engine through the radiator/cooling fans, one even broke the front motor mount. Definitely not the "easier way" to do it! Patience is a virtue in this endeavor.

goaliegod · 09-26-2006, 01:25 PM

Thanks for the heads up guys. I'd found a lot of advice online that advocated tilting the engine, and was all set to try it. I'm glad I checked here first. I guess I'll just have to take my time with it and see how it goes. Maybe I'll wait 'til my sis is home from college. I tried to do the plugs on a similar car a while back, and my paws are too big to fit easily back there.

goser · 09-26-2006, 01:25 PM

Would it make sense to read the SES code so you don't have to guess why it's on?

BNaylor · 09-26-2006, 05:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by goser

Would it make sense to read the SES code so you don't have to guess why it's on?

Most of us working with him knows that he has a misfire P0303 DTC and he probably does too.

But if it will help see his prior link below:

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...50#post4363850

goser · 09-26-2006, 09:53 PM

Ah, sorry. I don't have any other advice then. I'll just go back to my usual forum...

355smallblock · 09-26-2006, 10:03 PM

If You Tilt The Engine Make Sure Its In Neutral.also On 3.8 Remove The Strut Brace.use A Set Of Spark Plug Boot Pliers And A Medium Lenth Pry Bar Place The The Pliers On The Boot And The Pry Bar On The Rear Valve Cover For Leverage Squeeze The Pliers With One Hand And Push Aginst The Pliers With The Pry Bar With The Other.trust Me If You Do This Correctly It Makes This Job A Breeze This Can Be Done Without Removing The Metal Sheild From The Boots..................good Luck

BNaylor · 09-26-2006, 10:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 355smallblock

On 3.8 Remove The Strut Brace.

355smallblock,

You are aware stock 97 - 03 Grand Prixs do not have a strut brace going from strut tower to strut tower? The ones that do are either aftermarket, from a GMPP kit or taken from another GM "W" body like a Regal.

Also, we frown on duplicate posts. Your second post has been deleted.

goaliegod · 09-26-2006, 10:46 PM

Thanks Bob. I was wondering what strut bar he was talking about. I'm going to try this tonight and see how it goes. Looking at the engine when I got home from work I noticed that the wires are run through a black metal bracket attached to the engine. Should I remove this or just try to wiggle the wires through the bracket/guide?

BNaylor · 09-26-2006, 11:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by goaliegod

Thanks Bob. I was wondering what strut bar he was talking about. I'm going to try this tonight and see how it goes. Looking at the engine when I got home from work I noticed that the wires are run through a black metal bracket attached to the engine. Should I remove this or just try to wiggle the wires through the bracket/guide?

You are referiing to the right (passenger) side of the engine? The u shaped bracket below the dogbone mount? I remove it. Easier to route the wires and make sure the plastic covering goes on right. It is a tight fit otherwise. Off the top of my head it should be two 15mm bolts up top and a 13mm nut by the exhaust manifold.

355smallblock · 09-26-2006, 11:03 PM

JESUS CHRIST DON'T REMOVE THE O2 WHAT WASTE OF TIME USE THE PRY BAR AND PLIAR TRICK IT IS SOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO EASY

goaliegod · 09-26-2006, 11:50 PM

Alright, one more stupid question. Last night I changed my PCV Valve. I followed the tech proceedure Bob gave me, and everything went smoothly. Today my car drove fine on the way to work, but had SES on when I went to lunch. So, I reviewed the tech proceedure, and noticed one differance. when i took the sensor off from above the PCV, it came off in 2 pieces as shown.

The tech. proceedure shows it coming off in one piece. So, is this sensor broken, is this something I can glue back together, what? Oh, the car also ran a little rough at lunch and on the way home. Nothing you noticed when in the car, but the engine sounded differant when I got out and listened in my driveway.

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