Polishing cloths or polishing compound???

[924_CarreraGTS]

I have been using a Detail Master polishing kit with polishing cloths, grits 3200, 3600, 4000, 6000, 8000, and 12000, to finish my models. Although the results are astonishing, I often wear through paint or clear coat Also, the result, though smooth, is not particularly shiny, because of all the fine scratches that make the surface a bit hazy. I though that wax might cure this (haven't tried yet), but I was wondering--does the Tamiya polishing compound (paste) work better than the cloths? I'm assuming that there will still be a haze, but what about wear-through? Is it easier to get close to edges and into narrow spaces with the compound, since you can use a Q-tip or something instead of just a cloth like the sanding cloths?

Also, does regular auto wax work for models? I have been unable to find any sort of model wax, such as by Tamiya, anywhere online My Dad, however, has quite a collection of Meguiar's wax, which will more than complete all of my models, though most of these will be completed long after I have left home (only another year). Will this wax work?? I'm currently building a beautiful Corvette Z06 for my older sister (her dream car), and want a perfect paint job. I've already polished my 7 coats of clear, and now need to remove that haze and make the paint shiny. Will the wax do that, and will auto wax work?

Anyway, there's three questions--What's the scoop on cloths vs. compounds; does wax make a smooth model also shiny, like fresh paint;
and will auto wax work?

Hope you painting experts can help. I'm just a learner. Thanks.
Alex

[wouter1981]

I use micromesh polishing cloths op polish my models, but there are still some minor scratches after n°12000 and i remove those with tamiya compound (finish) Then a coat of tamiya wax.
So:
polishing cloths or compound? For me the both.
Wax will give you a really deep shine (no substitute for polishing )
And car wax will probably work, but test it on some scrap first. better safe than sorry. And I heard soms great things about Meguiar's wax here, do a search and you'll find a lot of help.

[ZoomZoomMX-5]

Polishing cloths only = hazy, smooth finish.

Compound only = glossy finish with some texture (orange peel) depending on how smooth the primer/paint were applied.

Both = the right way to do it. You are supposed to use a liquid compound after the cloths. Tamiya fine/finish compounds are great, but Meguiars Scratch X works extremely well, Kit Scratch Out also works, as well as Novus #2 plastic polish. Be wary of other automotive products, they may have petroleum chemicals that will damage the paint. I can generally tell by the smell of a compound whether it's safe or not.

Burning through paint when polishing is common. Avoid those areas, cut small pieces of tape to protect them when polishing, apply more clearcoat in the first place, and learn by experience are all methods that will help you avoid and minimize the potential problem. Still happens to me and I've painted/polished hundreds of models. I know how to touch up paint carefully and avoid 99.9% of visible burn-throughs.

Smoother paint in the first place results in fewer problems later on. When I prime a model, I then use 3200 grit to smooth the primer. I apply the first round of color, and hit w/3600. I apply a second/final round of color, and hit it w/3600 and 4000. Then I start to clearcoat, laying on a first round of clear, wetsand w/3600-4000, apply a second round of clear with at least one or two good wet final coats. Then depending on the gloss I can get away w/using 3600-6000 grit before liquid, if there's a bit too much orange peel I'll start w/3200, if it's a very dark color I'll use all the cloths through 12000 before liquid.

[Gridgirl]

Originally Posted by 924_CarreraGTS

I'm currently building a beautiful Corvette Z06 for my older sister (her dream car), and want a perfect paint job.

Awwww, that's so sweet!

Anyway, I agree with ZoomZoomMX about your actual question. I've had really good luck using Meguiar's Scratch-X, and in terms of ease of use, I prefer it to Tamiya compounds, which I find to be a little bit thick to use easily.

[Nutsforcars]

You certainly need both polishing cloths and polishing compount. I use cloths in a range from 2400 to 1200. Usually I follow the same process as described by ZoomZoom. In order to minimize burning through the paint, I like to stop sanding with cloths as early as possible. That depends on the smoothness of the paint, color, and the kind of paint used. If there is no significant orange peel and it's a lighter color, 4000 is usually my last grit; with black I go all the way to 12000.

I use two kinds of compound: the above mentioned ScratchX (it's excellent) and Meguiar's Mirror Glaze Show Car Glaze (#7) which I prefer because it gives an even better shine, does not leave white residue in the panel lines, and can be overpainted (if necessary ).

My prefererred wax is 3M Ultra High Gloss Paste Wax (which I happened to use for my real car). It beats everything else I tried (including modelling waxes) for shine. Use wax, once you are happy with the results from polishing.

A last hint on burning through the paint: I have done it a lot, and it still happens to me. ZoomZoom's tips are excellent. In addition, try using clear coat on all finishes. Besides its usual purpose it serves as an indicator while (wet-)sanding. If you find color on your cloth, your through the clear, time to stop. Also, some small blemishes caused by sanding can be carefully fixed with a brush. No need to repaint. Just give it another clearcoat and start sanding and polishing again. A great part of modelling is really fixing mistakes.

[rsxse240]

I totally ruined a paint job with some mcguire's 3 step stuff, but it was the cheap testors enamel. it was silver with about 5 coats of clear. I should have left it un-waxed but NO! I have to have perfection now I have to strip, repaint, and re polish the damn thing....not a good start to getting back into modeling after 2 years.

[924_CarreraGTS]

Wow, thanks guys. It looks like I'll be going to towerhobbies.com this week and picking up some Tamiya polishing compound. Fortunately, it's not too late to do this step to the 'Vette, since the body is still off the frame, plus no windows and only a little black BMF trim (I'll go around it). Thanks for the help.