Two Strange Problems

[Mac626]

1992 TC V8 / 130K miles

Problem 1:

I recently started having a problem with my TC. It will run fine when cold, but after driving for about 15 minutes it shows some strange behavior. When idling in gear with the brake on, for no apparent reason the car will begin to idle rough. One second it's smooth, then it hitches, becomes irregular and dies if I don't give the gas pedal a tap. This lasts for about 3 or 4 seconds and then it's back to smooth. It may be unrelated, but once the idle problem starts, I also have noticed that the downshift becomes very hard, and jerks the car badly. If these problems are related, I am assuming it might be a vacuum issue but have no idea where to look. Any ideas?

Problem 2:

This one has been driving me crazy for some time. When I hit the brakes the front end shimmies just as if one of the rotors is warped (pulsing). I have replaced both front rotors and even had the new ones turned. Next I thought it might have something to do with the anti-lock brakes, so I pulled the fuse; but it made no difference. Is there another component that could cause this type of thing?

Thanks for any help.....

Mac

[Towncar]

Originally Posted by Mac626

Problem 1:
..I am assuming it might be a vacuum issue but have no idea where to look...

???????????
Sounds like a sensor needs replacing or dirty, Which one?

Have you cleaned out the EGR Channel ?

Originally Posted by Mac626

Problem 2:
..Is there another component that could cause this type of thing?

Have a look at the "A" frames bushings and ball joints. With sufficient wear you will get that shimmy. If you feel it in the steerring wheel too you might want to look at tierod ends also.

[Mac626]

Originally Posted by Towncar

???????????
Sounds like a sensor needs replacing or dirty, Which one?

Have you cleaned out the EGR Channel ?


Have a look at the "A" frames bushings and ball joints. With sufficient wear you will get that shimmy. If you feel it in the steerring wheel too you might want to look at tierod ends also.

Thanks - I printed out the EGR instructions and will inspect the front end components. After 130K miles I'm betting you're on the right track.

[lincolnsounds]

[quote=Mac626]1992 TC V8 / 130K miles

Problem 1:

I recently started having a problem with my TC. It will run fine when cold, but after driving for about 15 minutes it shows some strange behavior. When idling in gear with the brake on, for no apparent reason the car will begin to idle rough. One second it's smooth, then it hitches, becomes irregular and dies if I don't give the gas pedal a tap. This lasts for about 3 or 4 seconds and then it's back to smooth. It may be unrelated, but once the idle problem starts, I also have noticed that the downshift becomes very hard, and jerks the car badly. If these problems are related, I am assuming it might be a vacuum issue but have no idea where to look. Any ideas?

My experience I cleaned out and used fuel system cleaner. That cleaned the lines and valves and the big one injectors. Change the fuel filter as well. My car used to idle rough and i did what is stated above and it runs fine. With a little high speed on the highway it was like brand new.

[InverseTA]

I have this exact same problem about the car idle at a light when warmed up. But my vehicle dies if I wait to long. I have cleaned the EGR as was stated, new Spark Plugs, new air filter, gas cleanser with some higher test gas. But nothing....... hopefully some one has an answer. Its a 93 TC. I love it to death.

[Towncar]

Originally Posted by InverseTA

I have this exact same problem about the car idle at a light when warmed up. But my vehicle dies if I wait to long. I have cleaned the EGR as was stated, new Spark Plugs, new air filter, gas cleanser with some higher test gas. But nothing....... hopefully some one has an answer. Its a 93 TC. I love it to death.

Like Mac626 -- you should be sure the vacuum lines are perfect.
Beyond that, you would want to be sure the exhaust system is free flowing, not clogged. Remember the old Potato in the exhaust pipe? A restricted exhaust flow can kill the engine. PCV and EGR should be clean and free flowing. Fuel Injectors should be clean -- Throttle body needs to be clean.

You folks ever heard of Seafoam ? Give it a shot, recommended by everyone.
http://www.lincolnsonline.com/tech/00151.html

Higher test (octane) fuel isn't the answer, in fact it's counter productive in systems not designed for it. Use the 87 octane specified in the manual.

There are many other factors like bad valves, head gasket, extreme blowby, etc. that require more extensive engine testing and test equipment. Of course some of these tests, or decisions to test these areas should be based on miles on the odometer, and driving conditions over it's life.

[InverseTA]

well i took all your guys advice. i found a vacuum line broke behind the throttle body. So the car runs great, but it still has a problem. The car trembles on acceleration. Not all the time. It doenst feel like an engine problem. More like the transmission and differential. When it rides its as smooth as butter. Is there somethign on the tranny i can check myself? Or any more info?? Other than that... thanks a lot guys!!

[Towncar]

Originally Posted by InverseTA

The car trembles on acceleration. Not all the time. It doenst feel like an engine problem. More like the transmission and differential. When it rides its as smooth as butter. Is there somethign on the tranny i can check myself? Or any more info?? Other than that... thanks a lot guys!!

New thread time...

Anyway,
The transmission should be flushed every 30/40k miles due to it's shuddering problem. The flush and refill with premium grade MerconV keeps the shudder at bay.

[cobradude360]

seafoam great product i would highly recomend it

[sreilly77]

Originally Posted by cobradude360

seafpam great product i would highly recomend it

i use seafoam once a month. i pour it in my gas tank once a month and i also drizzle it down my throttle body and rev the motor to about 2500 RPMs every 6 months (only a half a bottle, you don't want to blow a head gasket) to keep the engine free of carbon deposits. for a little over 190,000, the car runs fantastic, basically like brand new. Seafoam is definitly worth the $7 to keep your car running really wel.

[InverseTA]

Well I had the tranny flushed and refilled. The filter was changed also. It seemed to have worked great for about 5 hours. Then it came back. It does slide in and out of gear easier. And the shudder is less frequent, but its still a strong shudder. They didnt do a pressure flush. Should I get that done? The transmission place said to go get the Ford brand Slip additive, good idea? Thanks Steven, I appreciate the time you've taken.

TJ

[most_wanted192000]

Hmm you wanna watch it when you get the pressure flush especially when the fluid in it is old could do more harm than good. For the shudder get lubeguard in the black bottle i think it's the black one forgot but on the bottle it should say friction modifier give that a shot 1st

[Towncar]

Originally Posted by InverseTA

Well I had the tranny flushed and refilled. The filter was changed also. It seemed to have worked great for about 5 hours. Then it came back. It does slide in and out of gear easier. And the shudder is less frequent, but its still a strong shudder. They didnt do a pressure flush. Should I get that done? The transmission place said to go get the Ford brand Slip additive, good idea? Thanks Steven, I appreciate the time you've taken.

TJ

Two words "fuck!" and "Lubegard".

I havn't heard anything good about Ford's trans conditioner, only Lubegard. I had a slight shudder at 29k miles, I'm at 60k now w/ Lubegard and havn't seen even the slightest shudder since.

At this point, stay away from the pressure flush, changing fluid and filter was sufficient. If you can tame this shudder you can flush it at the next 30k mile interval.

There's a sticking pressure valve causing the problem, that's just the way it was engineered.

Personally, I've been using the >>> Lubegard Red <<< since 30k miles however, in your case I think most_wanted is correct, the >>> Lubegard Black <<< is what you need.

Most people use one bottle but if you do the % calculation -- it comes out to more like 1.5 bottles, so I just use 2

Make sure you don't overfill the trans. The Lubegard is in a 10oz bottle, so make some room for it before you pour it in.

Lugegard is available at the better parts houses >>> search here <<< for more details.

If you can't find it anywhere, you can >>> order online <<< but it's priced better in the auto parts stores.

Don't go cheapo!! There's other products out there that make the claims -- Lubegard will solve the shudder for sure.

[jclockga]

I Had Same Problem With Transmition Shuddering.a Friend Of Mine Who Owns A Tranny Shop Recomended "shudder Fix".it Is Available Only At Transmition Supply Houses.anyway Used It(about $7)and It Has Been Around 25,000 Mile And No Shudder.