98 NEON running issue

[dampontiac]

SO yesterday my 98 DOHC neondecided to die once it was shifted into DRIVE. The car Started fine the once it was in drive it sputtered and died. Any ideas out there neon guys??
Im Broke without my car!!
Any help would be great
THANK YOU in advance

[FemaleRacer]

Originally Posted by dampontiac

SO yesterday my 98 DOHC neondecided to die once it was shifted into DRIVE. The car Started fine the once it was in drive it sputtered and died. Any ideas out there neon guys??
Im Broke without my car!!
Any help would be great
THANK YOU in advance

Are you getting any check engine codes? (Not all codes turn on the light) You can check these by turning the egine on to the powe mode-but not start it- 3 times in a row. It will then flash any codes that may be causeing a problem. The code decoder is posted-I believe-in the garage area of this site. Let us know what you get.

[dampontiac]

i pulled the codes and received a code 12
*Direct battery input to PCM was disconnected within the last 50 key-on cycles *

Is what i got off of another website for diagnostics.
Anyone have any clue what this can mean??
does anyone think i should put new plugs and wires and possibly a new coil in??
the car has around 96,000 miles on it.
thank you!!

[Wollf]

first things first check for spark , and fuel , there is a little fitting on the front of the fuel rail , remove the cap and press the little button inside , if a small shot of fuel comes out thats a good thing. If it does then go for spark , disconect one of your spark plug cables and lay it near the block ( spark plug side ) leave the other end hooked up to your coil have a friend watch the plug end while you turn it over and see if there are sparks jumping to a ground. Try those then let us know what you find out.

[HPNOTIQracing]

Originally Posted by Wollf

first things first check for spark , and fuel , there is a little fitting on the front of the fuel rail , remove the cap and press the little button inside , if a small shot of fuel comes out thats a good thing. If it does then go for spark , disconect one of your spark plug cables and lay it near the block ( spark plug side ) leave the other end hooked up to your coil have a friend watch the plug end while you turn it over and see if there are sparks jumping to a ground. Try those then let us know what you find out.

or if you wanna have fun have your friend touch the end of the spark plug when he holding it

have you diconeccted you batt anytime latley? if not and its giving you that code you probly have a loose power wire somewhere.

[dampontiac]

i checked for spark and there was none!! so i replaced the ignition coil today. it started fine and ran fine then a couple hours later my girlfriend drove it and it stalled on here once it was in park after driving a few miles.
so i dont know should i change the fuel filter or what? I sort of fixed the problem but it seems there is more going on here.

[Wollf]

If it started again afterwards yeah , i would hit it with a full tune up , specially if you havnt done one in a while , it will at the very least save you some gas. Fuel filter would be a good part of that tune up , throw in some plugs , wires and an air filter as well.

[FemaleRacer]

[quote=HPNOTIQracing]or if you wanna have fun have your friend touch the end of the spark plug when he holding it

LOL!!! You are terrible. The sad thing is...I saw one of my guy friends do that once....so very funny.

[dampontiac]

I am now getting codes 11 and 12. and the check engine came on last night?????? WHY WHY WHY????

[Wollf]

code 11 Timing belt skipped 1 tooth or more from initial learned value, Intermittent loss of either camshaft or crankshaft position sensor, No crank reference signal detected during engine cranking

code 12 just means that your car didnt start in the last 50 trys , sadly it is no longer a fuel issue , get it to a mechanic sooner then later , you can ruin your engine very fast if your belt breaks

[skatendestroy]

i was gonna suggest park/neutral switch.... it woyuld make sense I mean this is what was happening to me till i figured out the connector wasnt even connected to it

[FemaleRacer]

Ok...the codes were a Neon.org...sorry-by bad. Here are all of the code in case anyone else needs them.
1. Cycle the ignition key ON-OFF-ON-OFF-ON within 5 seconds.
2. Count the number of times the "check engine" lamp on the instrument panel flashes on and off. The number of flashes represents the code. There is a slight pause between the flashes representing the first and second digits of the code. Longer pauses separate individual codes. For example, flash-flash-flash [pause] flash-flash represents the code 32.

To cycle the ignition key ON means to turn it only as far as it takes to get the radio to come on. It does not mean to turn the
engine on.

CODE Description of Trouble Code
11 Timing belt skipped 1 tooth or more from initial learned value, Intermittent loss of either camshaft or crankshaft position sensor, No crank reference signal detected during engine cranking
12 Direct battery input to PCM was disconnected within the last 50 key-on cycles
13 No change in MAP from start to run
14 MAP sensor voltage too low
15 No vehicle speed sensor signal
17 Closed loop temp not reached or engine cold too long
21 02s sensor problem (oxygen sensor), upstream or down stream
22 Engine coolant temp sensor out of range
23 Intake air temp sensor out of range
24 Throttle Position sensor out of range
25 Idle air control motor circuits, target idle not reached (+/- 200),vacuum leak found
27 Injector control circuit
31 Evap purge flow monitor failure or evap solenoid circuit
32 EGR system failure
33 A/C clutch relay circuit
34 Speed control Solenoid circuits
35 Rad Fan control relay circuit
37 Torque converter clutch solenoid CKT or park/neutral switch failure
41 Generator field not switching properly
42 Fuel pump relay control ckt, Auto shutdown relay control ckt, No ASD relay output voltage at PCM, Fuel level sending unit volts out of range, Fuel level unit No change over miles
43 Multiple/ single cylinder misfire
44 Battery temp sensor volts out of range
46 Charging system voltage too low
51 Fuel system lean
52 Fuel system rich
53 Internal control failure
54 No Cam signal at PCM
55 End of error messages (If you get this only, no errors were found)
62 PCM failure SRI mile not stored
63 PCM Failure EEPROM write denied
64 Catalytic Converter Efficiency Failure
65 Power steering switch failure


And I get code 12 anytime I unhook my battery-so that could be a false code. Best of luck!!!

[dampontiac]

STILL HAVING TROUBLE!!!!
How am i suppossed to know what is wrong with it if it is giving a #11 code??
There are three things it could be but how do i know for sure?
The car started today for me then died, then i tried starting it again and the starter was going but it wouldnt start. it sound as if the crank is turning but i am just so pissed with this car right now its not even funny so if any one has more input i could really use it. im at wits end .

[Wollf]

Odds are your timing belt broke , or slipped more then a few teeth , if you are still trying to start it stop now , you will probly be causeing more damage then good. If it ( the belt ) broke then you can be bending all your rods and that is way more extensive to repair. Get it towed to a shop asap if you dont feel up to tearing apart your top end of the engine.

[HPNOTIQracing]

Originally Posted by Wollf

Odds are your timing belt broke , or slipped more then a few teeth , if you are still trying to start it stop now , you will probly be causeing more damage then good. If it ( the belt ) broke then you can be bending all your rods and that is way more extensive to repair. Get it towed to a shop asap if you dont feel up to tearing apart your top end of the engine.

first the valves would bend before the rods. second it takes about 2 mins to find out if the belt is broke. remove the small cover on the timing cover and try to pull the belt if its real loose then it probly is broke. but ill bet its not.

code 11 blah blah. most likely its your cam angle sensor and or crank angle sensor.
there is a plug on the cam angle sensor. its on the driver side of the block. its square. unplug that and see if it starts.

again to the quote above this is a problem that started when the car would start, cars wont start with broken timing belts. so the odds of it being the belt broken is next to none.