What steps do I need to take to get my car in the 13's...N/A?

[MechanisM]

1997 Prelude SH.

What would the steps be...in order...that I would have to take to get my car into the high 13's or very low 14's naturally aspirated.

Oh, and would does anyone have any ideas on what the price range on this procedure would be?

Thanks.

[GSteg]

maybe 14's but very vwery expensive to get 13's out of a prelude. its just that there is too much weight on the car. as for making more power:

standalone engine management system-$1000
fuel injectors-$300-400
fuel pump-$100-150 (don't know for sure)
high compression aftermaket pistons-$500-$600
aftermarket rods-$500-$600
some titanium valve springs-$150
stronger clutch-$300
aftermaket ignition setup (MSD, Jacob, etc..)- $200
Port & polish heads-$depends on place
Cam gears-$200
lots of tuning time

the last thing you should do is raise the RPM up by about 200 RPM. u can safely do this once your engine is properly reinforced to taket the pressure.

[crxlvr]

just get a turbo some NOS, and chop the car in half, and you'll be fine.

[ivymike1031]

you could convert it to run on a fuel other than gasoline...

you could shoehorn a SBC into the car (that'd be tacky though, wouldn't it?)

[NSX]

Originally posted by crxlvr
just get a turbo some NOS, and chop the car in half, and you'll be fine.

he says he wants to keep it naturally aspirated...no forced induction or nitrous

first of all, do you have an auto or manual transmission?

[StageOneGalant]

I have alot of Mods on my car.. I invested about 7-8 g's so far... and i'm running about high 13's( did 13.8 once ) and moslty mid to low 14's.. so it takes some work and a whole lot of patience.....

[crxlvr]

Originally posted by NSX


he says he wants to keep it naturally aspirated...no forced induction or nitrous

first of all, do you have an auto or manual transmission?

whoops, maybe i should read the whole topic before i post.

[GSteg]

Originally posted by StageOneGalant
I have alot of Mods on my car.. I invested about 7-8 g's so far... and i'm running about high 13's( did 13.8 once ) and moslty mid to low 14's.. so it takes some work and a whole lot of patience.....

thought about a standalone engine management system yet?

[supafly1024]

Originally posted by NSX


he says he wants to keep it naturally aspirated...no forced induction or nitrous

first of all, do you have an auto or manual transmission?

He said it was a type SH Prelude, the type SH only comes with a manual transmission.

[MechanisM]

Thanks for pointing that out....I thought I replied to that....but I guess not.

Oh....and what exhaust does that Lude have in your Sig?

[supafly1024]

Originally posted by MechanisM
Thanks for pointing that out....I thought I replied to that....but I guess not.

Oh....and what exhaust does that Lude have in your Sig?

My Lude has a Thermal R&D style exhaust. Check out www.thermalrd.com they make some great exhaust systems.

[MechanisM]

Check my sig. bro. ^^


I am also a Thermal Fan.

[SmoovSol]

guarenteed witha gude head package i/h/e u will run 14.3 or b etter depending on driver.. All that shit gs teg listed is all un heard of crock of shit every day things he reads bout in superstreet, that wit some pulley's a straight ignition coil and a real nice set of headers, maybe those type-s headers and u will be running 13's, high 13's is very easy to accomplish, 12's u have to be patient for, especially wit a prelude...

[ric]

Originally posted by SmoovSol
guarenteed witha gude head package i/h/e u will run 14.3 or b etter depending on driver.. All that shit gs teg listed is all un heard of crock of shit every day things he reads bout in superstreet, that wit some pulley's a straight ignition coil and a real nice set of headers, maybe those type-s headers and u will be running 13's, high 13's is very easy to accomplish, 12's u have to be patient for, especially wit a prelude...

are you kiddin me? its a hell of a lot harder to put a lude into the 13's n/a then anyone may think. a gude head package is not going to do it. bolt ons are not going to do it. what he (gsteg) suggested was the only reasonable and safe way of doing it. the one thing he did forget to add is a very aggressive cam and the fact that you wont be able to use forged pistons with the stock sleeves because of the fiber reinforcement in them. also if he goes standalone his atts is gonna be non existent because there is no stand alone to date that supports it, not even the hyped out aem ems so he will need a limited slip differential to help put the power down. the engine has horrible geometery for high revs so increasing your rev limit is gonna require a hell of a lot more then new valve springs and retainers, the bottom end will need to be sleeved to deal with even higher sideloading then allready exists, possible detontion from the long stroke dwell times at tdc and super high compression will need to be addressed. the crank will have to be lightnend balanced knife edged and miscropolished to prevent throwing a bearing.

h22's are hard to reliably extract power out of naturally aspirated. i have a lude and if i was going na i would much rather have a b18c or b16 to do it with.

[SmoovSol]

No... The h22a respondz rather nicely to the gude head package with like a 42hp gain i think, i/h/e ignition wit rev limiter, and that apexi vtec controller will extract about 20 hp out of that head when gude getz finished wit tha aggressive vtec lobe. all and all you will be looking at 40hp minumum from head package, i/h/e w/ type S headerz 15hp minimum, ignition wit rev limiter for high rpm and vtec land to make some power, and have someone tune an apexi vafc for about 22hp minimum, cause u gain like 12hp on a stock motor so i feel like saying more then 22 but oh well, now with the setup i have listed you will be in the 13's, how do i know this, there is a kid around the corner from me with almost the same setup, get a nice suspension, cf hood, slickz and u'll be chillen, the kid over heres best run has been a 13.7 with above setup.. have fun in whatever u choose though