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#1
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window regulator removal
i need a step by step instruction on how to replace the window regulator on the passenger side of my 3000gt. any suggestions on where to buy? cost?
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#2
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Re: window regulator removal
Quote:
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Daily Driver: 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee Special Edition 1994 Mitsubishi 3000GT SL-TT Automatic - Black 3.05 L Arias Forged Pistons, Pauter Forged Rods, DR Stage 3 heads, 3SX TD05 kit w/ E16G's, CX Racing FMIC, 550cc injectors, Walbro 255lph pump, + supporting mods 1994 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR-4 - Black Intake & Boost Controller so far 2006 Sea-Doo RXP Supercharged, Updraded SC, IC + supporting mods |
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#3
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couldnt find anything. can anybody else help out?
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#4
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stealth 316 has the instructions for removing the door panels, look up 3000gt regulator on ebay, there is a guy on there that sells them for like $180, but he will include instructions and refund you $50 if you return your old broken regulator.
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1992 Black 3000gt SL -Pivot sleepy-eye headlights -Valentine One radar/laser detector -K&N FIPK w/ removed resonator -Custom downpipe-back true-dual exhaust -Topline Engineering Ground Wires -Front Strut Bar -Intrax Lowering Springs (pics coming soon) |
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#5
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Re: window regulator removal
ya, unfortunately it will be very difficult to find a NEW window regulator for less than $150. i've had to replace both of mine since i've had my car. yes, you can find them on e-bay for cheap, but everyone bids on em and the price goes way high. AND those are USED regulators, and you don't want to get a used one.
the deal is, when our window regulators "break", the part on them that fails is the plastic pulley. that's crap! b/c the rest of the regulator is metal, except for the little crappy pulley is plastic...so duh its gonna fail eventually. and if the pulley breaks, only way you can fix it is to get an entirely new regulator assembly...they don't sell that pulley by itself. so basically you're just screwed. (but make sure its the pulley that's broken adn not the motors that's burned out). so i ran across some guy on 3si who sent his broken regulator to a company (the Window Guard Company) who rebuilt it (i.e. the pulley) and reinforced it with metal! genius! why did it take someone this long to figure something so simple .here's is the contact info for the Window Guard Company: [email protected]. i never did contact them b/c both my regulators are fairly new and working fine. but if your's is broken, i'd shoot them an e-mail. it only seems practical to improve upon a product rather than simply replace it with an equally incompetent one.
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93 3000GT base K&N | long tube headers | 3sx crank pulley| testpipe | Addco front/rear sway bars (3SX) | rear strut bar & front 3-point strut bar (by JonVr4 on 3Si) | solid motor mounts | LSD insert | KYB GR-2 struts | intrax springs | adj. control arms | ss brake lines | 16% taller 5th gear (teamrip.com) | H4 conversion | push-button start | datalogger | HKS S-AFR | PLX WB O2 coming soon: adj. cam gears | bi-xenon HID retrofit |
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#6
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Re: window regulator removal
I am having the same problem. After looking around some I found this on another site. I haven't tried it out yet. Good luck, hope this helps.
Procedure: 1- Take door panel off, it's easy if you don't know how. Just take all the screws you can see off. There are 3 screw that are behind the carpet cover on the lower part of the panel. The panel just pop out. 2- Disconnect the light and switches connector. 3- Remove the clear plastic that cover over the a big hole of inner metal frame. 4- There are 2 screws holding the glass window to the motor assembly. Find a piece of wood and jack the glass window up to where you can see these screws. Remove the 2 screws and window won't drop, IF YOU JACK it up. 5- There are 4 screws holding the assembly rail to the inner frame. Two above the hole and 2 below the hole. Take those out and the frame should come right out. 6- The motor itself is mounted by the hole, in the lower part and front side of the car. Facing the hole, if driver side it will be on your right, passanger side is on your left. Disconnect the power connector. There are 3 screws holding the motor to metal frame. Take those screws out and the motor should come off. 7- Slide the motor assembly out thru the hole. 8- Put the new one in. 9- Just reverse the procedure. 10- YOU'RE DONE, 30 minutes or less, saved $210. Hope this will help those with broken power window. |
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