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#1
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okay it started a few months ago, 96 blazer LS 4X4 S-10 .when i would drive home from college( 3 hour drive) and get off the highway the first red light i hit it would stall. this happened a few times once and while. Well last weekend i went half way home to meet a friend, drove fine all the way to i was about 15 miles from home, going up the moutian hills the truck began to drop rpm and hesistate when i gave it gas. next i come accross the bridge into town and stop at the light, stalls, i was able to throw it into netural and restart. Next light stalls and then crank crank crank, no start, waited a minute started then halled ass one block home. i was'nt about to push it again, pusing blazers anit fun. Well it runs fine small trips from home to school, but i have to go home this weekend and i am afraid it will not make it. I've read about this being caused by the ignition switch and would replaced it but , why would that cause me to have the hesitation and no power that i was having hitting the gas going up hill. Also if related i been having a random SES code "running to rich bank 1" but i just clear it out and it goes out for a few weeks and returns.
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#2
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Re: yet another stalling prb
When was the last time you changed your fuel filter? The other thing you should look at is your fuel pressure. It should be between 60 - 65 psi. See if that helps.
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#3
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Re: yet another stalling prb
How many miles are on it?
Any other codes? When was the last time that a tune-up was done? Plugs Wires Cap Rotor Air Filter Fuel Filter PCV valve |
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#4
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Re: Re: yet another stalling prb
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#5
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Re: Re: yet another stalling prb
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thanks |
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#6
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Re: Re: Re: yet another stalling prb
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Checking your fuel pressure: There is a shreder valve to the rear driver side of the plenum. With the ignition in the on position, you should have 60 - 65psi there. If not, I would first replace your fuel filter then test again. |
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#7
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back after two months
Okay back after two months and problem still around. I've replaced plugs(a/c delco plat) Wires(bosch),Cap,Rotor,Fuel filter,PVC,Air filter,Coil. Check pressure at scredder and its in spec. The stalling/misifireing got so bad i broke down and took it to a shop. He found out there was a bad spark plug buy runing them on a scope, replaced and ran fine for a few days, now i am starting to have misfire at idle again and its starting to do it when cruising again. Water pump broke yesterday and had to replaced that and got a new serpentine belt and put the old on back on.No having good luck but hey i guess its a 10 year old truck. Just wish i could get this problem figured out. Any input would be helpfull. Thanks
-Tom |
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#8
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Re: back after two months
Not sure if you have tried this yet, or if it is even relevant but when i had my old '85 olds ciera the same thing would happen to me, long drive, get off the interstate, stop at the light and boom car would stall. So during regular maintenance i changed the tranny filter and fluid and drained out the cooler as well, and low and behold i accidently fixed the stalling issue. Who knows, if its been a long time id go for it. Cant lose, and you got fresh fluid in her. But its not likely to fix the engine performance issue.
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#9
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Re: Re: back after two months
I just remembered, i had the EXACT same problem as you. All the symptoms, mine had been going bad for a year before i figured it out. I was told everything you were too, lol, and i replaced, EVERYTHING engine performance wise. My buddy who drives a blazer mentioned that it might be my MAF sensor, so i put his in and it was like it just Got a whole new engine. So here is my advice, find someone, anyone to let you use their MAF sensor and see if it makes a difference. You will notice right off the bat. Its a 5 second repair. It's a very essentional engine monitor, but pricey, mine was around $120 bucks but worth every frikin dollar
here is a picture of it. Only cause i confuse MAF and MAP all the time It basically looks like that, just not as flashy, in between the intake and air cleaner box. http://www.granatellimotorsports.com...50119small.jpg |
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#10
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Re: Re: Re: back after two months
To expand upon this MAF theory, try to clean 'er up. Get some electrical contact cleaner and clean up dirty area's. Just beware of the 2 wires in the middle.
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#11
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Re: Re: Re: Re: back after two months
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-tom |
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#12
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Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: back after two months
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#13
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Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: back after two months
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BTW replaced so far: Plugs(a/c delco plat) gaped to spec Wireset Cap/Rotor Fuel filter Air Filter PVC Valve
__________________
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#14
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Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: back after two months
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One test you could try is a burnout (just be careful on the burnout, dont tear up your engine: sorry but i have to disclaimer) If you hold the brake and gas but all it does is spit and sputter than you have exactly the same issue as i did. I really hope that you can somehow get a MAF to tryout. I hope it will fix your problem. especially before you do all the crap i did...it was such a headache, but the good thing was i replaced a lot of things that i may have tried to put off so it was both good and bad i suppose.
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1997 Chevrolet Blazer LT Black 4x4x4 door http://www.cardomain.com/ride/665593 Proud Founder of the "Clean, test or replace your MAF sensor club" Im also a member! |
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#15
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Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: back after two months
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