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| Forced Induction Discuss topics relating to turbochargers, superchargers, and nitrous oxide systems. |
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#1
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Supercharger Vs Turbo
Which would be better for a engine supercharger or turbo?? **H22a**
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2002 Honda Civic Ex Blue...about to mod it |
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#2
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Each has their pros and cons. I personally prefer the turbo setup and I always will.
Supercharger: Pros: 1. Cheap. There are fewer parts involved than in a turbo setup. 2. Easy to install. They are called bolt ons for a reason. This also helps them be less expensive than turbo setups. 3. Instant power. Since the supercharger is belt driven anytime you push the gas it is boosting. You don't have to deal with spool up time like with a turbo setup. Cons: 1. Power robbing. Since it is belt driven this means it runs off the engine. It takes a little power to make power. This is a very small amount. 2. Gas mileage. You can expect a big hit in gas mileage, since the supercharger is boosting whenever you push the gas. It doesn’t matter if you are accelerating or cruising it is boosting, thus using more fuel. Turbocharger: Pros: 1. Gas mileage. You can keep good gas mileage with a turbo since when you are accelerating normally it uses very little gas and boosts very little and when you are cruising it is sucking in air and not boosting at all letting you retain good gas mileage. 2. More power. Since the turbo is driven off of the exhaust you get more power since it is only working with the engine and not working off it. Cons: 1. Cost. Turbo setups can be ore expensive depending on how much boost you plan to run and because they are harder to install than a supercharger. 2. Turbo lag. You do get some turbo lag off the line and the turbo can be set up to spool at different RPMs. There are now lighter impellers and VNT turbos which greatly reduce lag and with nitrous oxide you can eliminate it completely. I would say that it all really depends on the application. If you are going to run a 4cyl or 6cyl engine turbo is your best option. I would rather use a supercharger "blower" on V8 and larger displacement engines. Small displacement = turbo large displacement = super. |
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#3
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#5
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Also should point out that turbos usually can run A LOT more boost than superchargers... don't most superchargers only put on like 8 psi... something like that? Oh, and I would rather throw a big single, or twin turbos on a V8... just look at that Lingenfelter Corvette... Amazing ![]() -Grendel |
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#6
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Supercharger cheaper than Turbo? Maybe on a big V8. How much is a Jackson SC for a Civic, like $3000+. I know Greddy has civic turbo kits for $2000. And if you know much about turbo setups, you could make your own for a hella of a lot cheaper.
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#7
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one con that you didn't mention that i already sort of mention was sometimes the belt on a supercharger will slip. i would say at least 75% of the people i know with blowers on their cars have problems with their belt slipping. just food for thought Quote:
sorry for long post...
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1998 Yellow Civic Coupe 5spd EX Wings West Avenger Kit Z3 Fenders c/f hood Custom Spa Yellow (s2000) paint job Blacked out taillights triple beam projector headlights 16" Enkei TBS11s w/Paradas all wrapped around them Aluminum Front and Rear upper tie bars Custom CAI, JG 4-2-1 Header, Custom Racing Madalion catback exhaust (2.25") with testpipe short shifter and Neuspeed shifter bushings Pioneer DEH-P7300 CD player w/6CD changer orion 800.4 xtreme amp, 2x 12" eclipse subs, and some 6.5" Focal componts from the polyglass line (6v1) Next up: GSR Swap and hopefully some sponsorship? ![]()
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#8
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hope that makes sense
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1998 Yellow Civic Coupe 5spd EX Wings West Avenger Kit Z3 Fenders c/f hood Custom Spa Yellow (s2000) paint job Blacked out taillights triple beam projector headlights 16" Enkei TBS11s w/Paradas all wrapped around them Aluminum Front and Rear upper tie bars Custom CAI, JG 4-2-1 Header, Custom Racing Madalion catback exhaust (2.25") with testpipe short shifter and Neuspeed shifter bushings Pioneer DEH-P7300 CD player w/6CD changer orion 800.4 xtreme amp, 2x 12" eclipse subs, and some 6.5" Focal componts from the polyglass line (6v1) Next up: GSR Swap and hopefully some sponsorship? ![]()
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#9
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numbers is what sells the kit and thats exactly how vortech chargers are sold. not that many people look into the revband when they go shopping for one. For the price the vortech, you're better off with RevHard stage 2 setup. |
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#10
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the main reason why they have VTEC and econo cams is because the VTEC cam doesn't idle i vote turbo myself its soo much fun they start thinking they are winning then the turbo spools up and the boost comes running thru like bulls thru a spanish town .......FREAKING FAST ........then they get pissed cuz they been beat by a Volvo
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Qualified Automotive Engineer
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#11
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About the cams... bear with me if i'm thinking retarded; i've had a very very long last two days... but if i'm thinking right, on a DOHC motor, one cam controls exhaust flow and one cam controls intake flow. i may have missunderstood what you were trying to say, but it sound like you are saying one cam is vtec and one cam is economic. both cams in a DOHC vtec car are vtec cams. vtec is a differnt lobe on the same cam that is more aggressive which gives more top end power. Even though you have two cams, vtec makes it seem as if you have four since on the low end the cam is very tame and fuel economic (and also idles very nicely), but on the top end when vtec kicks, the cam is more aggressive. I am all for getting a differnt cams that have a more aggressive vtec lobe; however, unless you don't plan on driving your car daily, getting non-vtec cams (meaning you'd have to disable vtec which is a whole other task) that are very aggressive doesn't seem economical or logical. Your gas milage will likely drop, your idle would suck, and most of all, if you already had vtec you could have gotten the same top end gains by just getting a pair of more aggressive vtec cams and still kept your low end goodness. So to answer your thought: if you already have a vtec motor, rather than getting a pair of agressive non-vtec cams, unless you plan on going all out race (meaning big turbo pushing some gawdaweful psi), you are better off to get more agressive cams which takes advanatage of your vtec. On a side note: if you have a non-vtec motor such as a ZC, b20, or b18b, putting more agressive cams in makes sense since you don't have the ability to, in effect, change cams in the middle of you powerband. Just be careful not to get a cam that is too aggressive as that will hurt your streetablity by making you idle very rough and drink your gas like crazy (and more likely that not also hurt your low end torque). Last point on cams/vtec: if you are building a race only car with a fat ass turbo pushing 20+psi, you'll end up being better off disabling vtec since the turbo will more than make up for the valve timing. I believe most drag cars run a very very aggressive cam and just idle like crap. it doesn't really matter since they don't have to be driven more than 200 yards to the starting line and then they can go all out. just some food for thought :smoka:
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1998 Yellow Civic Coupe 5spd EX Wings West Avenger Kit Z3 Fenders c/f hood Custom Spa Yellow (s2000) paint job Blacked out taillights triple beam projector headlights 16" Enkei TBS11s w/Paradas all wrapped around them Aluminum Front and Rear upper tie bars Custom CAI, JG 4-2-1 Header, Custom Racing Madalion catback exhaust (2.25") with testpipe short shifter and Neuspeed shifter bushings Pioneer DEH-P7300 CD player w/6CD changer orion 800.4 xtreme amp, 2x 12" eclipse subs, and some 6.5" Focal componts from the polyglass line (6v1) Next up: GSR Swap and hopefully some sponsorship? ![]()
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#12
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The main problem with the roots style sc, is the intake temps. Which can exceed a 190+ degrees. Sooo, getting something in there like Water Injection or N2O. Will cool the temps down enough, too where 30-50+ hp can be gained back...
There is a by-pass valve that is built into the charger, soo it's not always in boost per say. Otherwise, my boost gauge must be lying to me... ![]() The Vortech is nothing more then a turbo driven off the engine, rather then the exhaust... Sooo, your drive line is also getting treated like a turbo's, with the sudden slam of torque. Where as the JR applies torgue smoothly through the power band. So there is no slamming going on, just a bunch of wheel spin... heheheThe learning curve is not so step with a sc, ac compared to a turbo. So blowing a engine becomes a lot less of a risk... By no means am I slamming turbo's I plan to go so, sometime in the future... ![]() "Noth'in like Induction..." ![]() -Ryan-
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88' CRX Si - JRSC @ 6psi Z6 Mini-Me, JDM SiR Conversion NOS #5122, JR Liquid InterCooling System ZYDNE SECU, 450's B&M FP Set, B&M Command Flo AutoMeter - Phantom FP, A/F, N2O, Boost gauges & pods, ARP HSKit, AEM Pads, 87' HF Drums, DYI CAI |
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#13
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Nice posts everybody but whats the biggest turbo i can slap onto a h22:smoker:
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