No Spark from new coil

[daypainter]

I have a 95 lumina apv 3.1. The fuel pump, alternater, starter, ignition coil, power steering pump, idler pulley and serpentine belt have all been replaced with in the last six months. I stopped hard and fast at a stoplight and the engine died. It would not and has not started since. It cranks like crazy and I smell fuel. There is no spark coming from the coil. The only trouble code I get is #34, the MAP sensor which is disconnected because the air cleaner was off when I ran the codes. I cannot find anything loose broken or disconnected. The coil was the last item replaced, about a week before the current problem. I also tried the original coil, that was replaced because it was sparking out of the wiring boot, and still no spark. Where should I turn my attention next?

[maxwedge]

Try and check for injector pulse with a " noid" lite. On second thought this is a TB engine with a dist., right? If so suspect the ign module or pick up. No crank sensor here.

[adams3463]

Originally Posted by daypainter

I have a 95 lumina apv 3.1. The fuel pump, alternater, starter, ignition coil, power steering pump, idler pulley and serpentine belt have all been replaced with in the last six months. I stopped hard and fast at a stoplight and the engine died. It would not and has not started since. It cranks like crazy and I smell fuel. There is no spark coming from the coil. The only trouble code I get is #34, the MAP sensor which is disconnected because the air cleaner was off when I ran the codes. I cannot find anything loose broken or disconnected. The coil was the last item replaced, about a week before the current problem. I also tried the original coil, that was replaced because it was sparking out of the wiring boot, and still no spark. Where should I turn my attention next?

Check the crank position sensor.

[corning_d3]

^ I agree.. This engine is fuel injected with a distributor-less ignition system, btw

[daypainter]

Originally Posted by maxwedge

Try and check for injector pulse with a " noid" lite. On second thought this is a TB engine with a dist., right? If so suspect the ign module or pick up. No crank sensor here.

Correct, Throttle Body Injection with a distributor. So I guess I will try the ICM and if that doesn't do it move on to the pick up coil? P/U coil is located on the distributor and thus requires removal of the distributor? Where as the ICM is just under the rotor and can be accessed w/o removal of the distributor? Shall I just replace the distributor lock stock and barrel?

[corning_d3]

I'll be...a 95 w/ a distributor..I stand corrected...The distributor must be removed, and you need access to a press to remove the distributor gear. You'll have to dis-assemble it to remove the pickup coil. To save some headache of having to remove it, here's a test procedure..(

1. Remove the rotor and pickup coil leads from the module(With distributor cap and rotor removed).

2. Using an ohmmeter, test as follows:
1. Connect 1 lead of the ohmmeter between the distributor housing and 1 of the pickup coil lead. Meter should read infinity. Flex the leads by hand while observing the ohmmeter, to check for intermittent opens.
2. Connect the ohmmeter between leads between both of the pickup coil leads. Meter should read a steady value between 500-1500 ohms.

[daypainter]

Originally Posted by corning_d3

I'll be...a 95 w/ a distributor..I stand corrected...The distributor must be removed, and you need access to a press to remove the distributor gear. You'll have to dis-assemble it to remove the pickup coil. To save some headache of having to remove it, here's a test procedure..(

1. Remove the rotor and pickup coil leads from the module(With distributor cap and rotor removed).

2. Using an ohmmeter, test as follows:
1. Connect 1 lead of the ohmmeter between the distributor housing and 1 of the pickup coil lead. Meter should read infinity. Flex the leads by hand while observing the ohmmeter, to check for intermittent opens.
2. Connect the ohmmeter between leads between both of the pickup coil leads. Meter should read a steady value between 500-1500 ohms.

Thanks, I will try the test procedure and will swap the ICM also. I also remember when changing the rotor and 'O' ring for the dist. shaft that a small piece of plastic from the ICM broke off and I thought fell out into the engine compartment or the garage floor, but I never found the piece. I am thinking it may have logged inside the dist. My sudden stop may have dislogged and relocated that piece and that could be the root cause of this issue. I will remove and inspect the dist. for such a piece. Thanks again.

[jeffcoslacker]

A quick and dirty method....I think there is three wires going to the coil (pos, neg, signal, and possibly a tach lead..so maybe four)

I used to identify pos and neg with a test light, then the signal lead should flash when the engine is cranked if the coil pickup or crank sensor, whichever the car has that I'm working on, if so the module and pickup are OK.

If there's signal but no fire, the coil is bad. No signal takes you back to your trigger or module. Test with an ohmmeter, like he said...some parts stores have a bench tester for those internal modules.

Reman distributors aren't real expensive, if you consider the cost of the pickup and module seperately. As long as the new distributor comes with them...gotta be sure to ask.

[daypainter]

Thanks to all. It was the ICM and while I tried to get a reman. dist. I couldn't find one with the P/U coil installed. I am up and running so thanks again and if this problem happens again, best guess is the P/U coil cause that is all that is left.