How much on repairs yearly?

[Brigs]

If you own something like a 96-98 A4 2.8 Quattro. About how much are you spending on repairs a year? Would a similar year BMW 3-series cost more or less to repair?

Thanks.

[ctesla]

Brigs, how's the great white north?
oh, yea, Welcome to AF.

your answer involves another question:
miles.
and that is two-part;
how many miles on the vehicle,
and how many miles are you putting on a vehicle annually.

although I do not use msn, msn.com and go to their "autos" icon.
here you can register your vehicle, and find out exact repair estimates for regular scheduled maint. in your area, and individual items (EX: a minute window on page with pull down screen, "how much to change a water pump?", etc.)

although I am a devout VW/Audi lover, the 3series does have an advantage as far as the inline 6 is STOUT, and parts across the board, can be found somewhat less than Audi components.
and AWD transmission repair (if needed, because of faulty or lax maintenance) can be extreme, compared to a rear-wheel drive set-up.
feature comforts of Audi, and body strength and durability vastly win over the 318/325/328s almost "low end" feel for such a purported
prestigous vehicle.
back to BMW, if properly driven will get WAY better fuel economy than Audi.

if either car(s) have been properly maintained, then cost will be gas, oil, and insurance(which speaking of, will be less for Audi, as AWD,4WABS, etc.)

my A4 has just at 114K, and still humming QUITE strong.
total cost this year(less fuel): $40./month insurance, $26. title/registration, 2 air filters ($7.USD ea.), 3 oil changes ($15filters, 20.in oil)
the prior year: the same plus $400. USDollars for tires, $900. for A/C evaporator and heater core, and hoses, and DEXCOOL, $40. for aftermarket driving lights (originals are $140.ea!), $40. to flush and fill P/S and brake fluids, and $50. for transmisson filter/fluid.
Pilot tires still have 40psi in them, after 1yr+ (and the little "nubs" haven't even worn off yet), my oil is changed around every 5000miles, and in three months, usually loses less than 1 quart, and my mileage sucks with a V6 to the tune of 18mpg AT BEST in city, but 33mpg highway (and I'm a leadfoot);
though BMW 3-series is a great looking car, and the inline 6 stronger, better mpg, and 2wheel drive, I was thinking not only of myself enjoying driving, but this I also researched, as this will be driven by my sixteen year old daughter, so: safety, affordable, reliable, well-engineered so, IF the all-wheel drive didn't avoid the accident, everyone is still walking away.
a client of mine has a '89 Audi turbo with over 400,000 miles on it running VERY WELL.
I have serviced many BMWs that their engine is still running great, but needs of emission components, or body parts, can quickly rack up a work order. on the other hand, if the 2.8L Audi has over 80K miles, better look at getting a timing belt, water pump soon, and that is a bill if you do not plan to do-it-yourself; or if it needs A/C-heater core work, the dash must be removed.

...so, all-in-all the BMW 328 (et al) would probably be more cost efficient overall, unless the Audi was well maintained...
-but, your in an Audi thread: VORSPRUNG.
hope this helps,
chris
nrt racing

[Brigs]

Originally Posted by ctesla

Brigs, how's the great white north?
oh, yea, Welcome to AF.

your answer involves another question:
miles.
and that is two-part;
how many miles on the vehicle,
and how many miles are you putting on a vehicle annually.

although I do not use msn, msn.com and go to their "autos" icon.
here you can register your vehicle, and find out exact repair estimates for regular scheduled maint. in your area, and individual items (EX: a minute window on page with pull down screen, "how much to change a water pump?", etc.)

although I am a devout VW/Audi lover, the 3series does have an advantage as far as the inline 6 is STOUT, and parts across the board, can be found somewhat less than Audi components.
and AWD transmission repair (if needed, because of faulty or lax maintenance) can be extreme, compared to a rear-wheel drive set-up.
feature comforts of Audi, and body strength and durability vastly win over the 318/325/328s almost "low end" feel for such a purported
prestigous vehicle.
back to BMW, if properly driven will get WAY better fuel economy than Audi.

if either car(s) have been properly maintained, then cost will be gas, oil, and insurance(which speaking of, will be less for Audi, as AWD,4WABS, etc.)

my A4 has just at 114K, and still humming QUITE strong.
total cost this year(less fuel): $40./month insurance, $26. title/registration, 2 air filters ($7.USD ea.), 3 oil changes ($15filters, 20.in oil)
the prior year: the same plus $400. USDollars for tires, $900. for A/C evaporator and heater core, and hoses, and DEXCOOL, $40. for aftermarket driving lights (originals are $140.ea!), $40. to flush and fill P/S and brake fluids, and $50. for transmisson filter/fluid.
Pilot tires still have 40psi in them, after 1yr+ (and the little "nubs" haven't even worn off yet), my oil is changed around every 5000miles, and in three months, usually loses less than 1 quart, and my mileage sucks with a V6 to the tune of 18mpg AT BEST in city, but 33mpg highway (and I'm a leadfoot);
though BMW 3-series is a great looking car, and the inline 6 stronger, better mpg, and 2wheel drive, I was thinking not only of myself enjoying driving, but this I also researched, as this will be driven by my sixteen year old daughter, so: safety, affordable, reliable, well-engineered so, IF the all-wheel drive didn't avoid the accident, everyone is still walking away.
a client of mine has a '89 Audi turbo with over 400,000 miles on it running VERY WELL.
I have serviced many BMWs that their engine is still running great, but needs of emission components, or body parts, can quickly rack up a work order. on the other hand, if the 2.8L Audi has over 80K miles, better look at getting a timing belt, water pump soon, and that is a bill if you do not plan to do-it-yourself; or if it needs A/C-heater core work, the dash must be removed.

...so, all-in-all the BMW 328 (et al) would probably be more cost efficient overall, unless the Audi was well maintained...
-but, your in an Audi thread: VORSPRUNG.
hope this helps,
chris
nrt racing

Hi,

"Brigs, how's the great white north?"

I'm curious. Do you say that because my profile says I'm in Canada, or perhaps you post on another message board with me? I remember using that quote "the great white north" on another message board, not related to cars though... anyway..

Thanks for the detailed response. You bring up a good point about insurance. Since I'm young it would be better to have a car with a lower insurance.

The maintenance cost you say is not bad at all. Except for that $900, but I'm guessing you fixed those things for conveniance. My main concern is the car actually breaking down as in un-driveable.

Pretty much sums up what I thought. Really depends on the condition of the car in question. I'd rather have the Audi in the winter, 4wd fun in the snow!, and the bimmer for the summer (rear wheel drive action) but I gotta choose one. Though winters in Canada are much longer than the summer there is my choice right there. Rather be safer and have more fun during the longer winter month than to struggle around trying to keep the bimmer on the road.

[ctesla]

actually you can find websites from Audi enthusiasts (and BMWs) that will praise their vehicles, I would still choose a BMW over Fords, Jags, Mazdas, etc.
the real deal you typed in your first sentence:
Quattro.
their is no substitute.

http://www.25quattro.com/php/flash.php

their is Porsche, but I'd rather own a home and a couple of cars;
so Audi was the logical choice, for myself, my daughter, AND my insurance rates.
and you mention about breakdowns, Audi is one of the most reliable (these guys put back-ups on their back-ups), can limp you home; shoot, it might even throw itself into a closed computer loop, and you wouldn't notice any driveability problem whatsoever.
if it is the 2.8L V6, ask for paperwork concerning timing belt (if over 60-70K miles), and the only reason my A/C work costed, is when relocating from Colorado to Texas, A/C was NECESSARY!, and while I was in there, I changed EVERYTHING I took out of the vehicle (save the dash), bulbs, hoses, bolts, heater core lining, gaskets, power steering, timing belt, tensioner, water pump, fluids, belts, t-stat, EVERYTHING! I only wanted to do that job once. we'll drive this thing now, 'til another 100K miles, worry free.
don't think you'll need A/C much up there... timing belt would be my only worry, just because of the interference engine.
you can (I think, if it's designed like the '96) pull the beauty cover, and access the timing belt cover plate (on driver's side), and actually it clips on, just like air box, and pop it open to visually inspect the belt.



if you have any other questions, feel free to PM or email me,
chris
nrt racing
[email protected]